‘89 LX 5.0 convertible mods

Just because it has low miles doesn't mean the suspension isn't shot. I would inspect the front and rear control arm bushings (including the ones on the rear end for the UCA's) for rot and tearing, inspect the dampers for leaks (including the quad shocks). If you want to keep it close to stock then stop there.

If you want to ride and handle well then you should look at quality dampers like Bilsteins, Koni's, etc. A good set of springs will make all the difference and there are all kinds of opinions out there on those but a quick search with "convertible" in it will weed most of them out. If it were me I would immediately get a set of Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates as they make a noticeable difference in the handling department.

Full length subframe connectors like Mustang5L5 linked will stiffen the car up which also translates into better handling. I run the Global West units on both of my cars as I prefer how the GW units tuck up beside the subframes versus mounting underneath them. My cars are low so I like the added ground clearance. Strut tower brace and k-member brace would be good ones to get as well.



Brakes are subjective in that if you want to keep the four lug then I would suggest you just change pad compounds up front and if you are okay with it move to disc brakes in the rear as they look better and they do offer a slight performance advantage over the drum brakes. If you want to move to five lug go here as Mustang5L5 has this stuff down to a science:


My preference is the 94-98 swap with 99-04 front calipers as far as bang for the buck and they stop a Foxbody really well. Use a 94-98 e-brake handle and you do not have to do the tack weld mod on the Fox one. For those that have 93 cars you only need this bracket (recall item) to make the e-brake handle work correctly:


Pretty sure this has been covered on here a couple of times but wanted to highlight it as it works really well.

I've owned a few convertibles. If the body is twisting over bumps subframe connectors will help it. As the resident thief says, strut tower braces also make a huge improvement. From the factory there is supposed to be a V brace from bottom of k member to each corner of the front bumper. There is another V brace from back of k member to each side of the frame. A good way to test twist is to unlatch the top above windshield and go over a speed bump at a 45 degree angle slowly. If you see the top of the windshield move in relation to the top frame it needs stiffening. Stifflers fit system is the best I've ever seen in person. It has full length sub frame connectors, jacking rail for along pinch welds, and bracing that runs between them. If you do decide to get subframe connectors get the ones with the seat braces.

https://buystifflers.com/fit-system-79--93-/