00 GT, Random miss after warm up? Runs great otherwise.

My 00 GT just broke 90k miles and I decided it was a good time to replace the spark plugs, the old plugs were motorcraft platinum's and they were gapped between .63 to .72 when I pulled them out :eek: so I'm guessing they've been in there for awhile, Perhaps they're the original plugs.

I replaced them with the same type (except new ones have longer threads) and left the gap as is, I checked each one and they were all gapped 0.56.

I also installed a JLT Cold air intake and put a bottle of chevron techron fuel system cleaner in my tank, I did all of this in the same week so it's hard to pinpoint if or which one of these caused the issue explained below, also the car ran fine for nearly 2 weeks without any symptoms afterwards, in fact it's running stronger now than it ever has since I bought it (4 1/2 years now).

The problem is for the past few days I have a random miss which starts to occur after the car has warmed up, It's pretty random but when it happens it almost always as Im taking off from a stop, it almost feels as if the whole car is cutting off for a brief second, the check engine light hasn't come on.

At first I thought it was losing a cylinder so I pulled the plugs but they all look brand new still.

I also tried cleaning the 2 prongs on each fuel injector and COP with q-tip & alcohol but that didn't help, the last thing I tried was to verify the MAF was still plugged in properly since it now sits inside the fender, but that checked out ok.

Any other ideas on what I can check would be greatly appreciated. The car is basically stock other than the JLT CAI & Centerforce dual friction clutch.
 
I also recently installed new plugs on my 00gt last weekend, same gap as you've described but I replaced them with a set of iridium plugs gapped to .56 and i've put in the neighborhood or 100 miles on it since, the car ran incredibly well and just tonight I noticed some idle fluctuation and it sounded after further inspection like a miss but I refreshed the tune on it after words to a more street friendly tune for the moment and the issue disapeared. I am also curious as to why this happened.
 
You mentioned that the new plugs "have longer threads" than the originals. How much longer are they? When you looked at them were the gaps still correct?

Yep the gap was fine when I pulled new plugs out, The old plugs were Motorcraft Platinum AWSF32P and the new plugs are Motorcraft Platinum AGSF32PM which is the replacement according to Autozone, I asked about the longer threads before buying and they said it wasn't an issue due to the tapered/angled seat on both plugs being in the same location, so they're not actually going into the motor any further than normal.


umydW.webp
 
I also recently installed new plugs on my 00gt last weekend, same gap as you've described but I replaced them with a set of iridium plugs gapped to .56 and i've put in the neighborhood or 100 miles on it since, the car ran incredibly well and just tonight I noticed some idle fluctuation and it sounded after further inspection like a miss but I refreshed the tune on it after words to a more street friendly tune for the moment and the issue disapeared. I am also curious as to why this happened.

Can you tell a difference in performance when adjusting the tune on a stock motor? Ive been debating on buying one just wish they weren't so expensive lol.

For whatever reason I put gas in my car last night and it ran fine all day today without any missing or hesitations.. Not sure what thats about unless I had a bad tank of gas before, but I went to the same place I almost always go (76 station nearby).
 
Yes you can feel it, at least I could. Keep in mind tho my car has quite a few other boltons but tuning the car after adding the said boltons gave me about 3-4 tenths on my et's.

Yeah my car hasen't had any hesitations what so ever since I fooled with the tune yesterday so I'm guessing it had something to do with the old one. But you can never really tell for sure.
 
Yep, I myself was hesitant to buy a hand held tuner until I did the PI swap in my car and decided to get one with a custom tune. I think for me the biggest advantage is the ability to make to auto trans shift better.
 
I also tried cleaning the 2 prongs on each fuel injector and COP with q-tip & alcohol but that didn't help, the last thing I tried was to verify the MAF was still plugged in properly since it now sits inside the fender, but that checked out ok.

Any other ideas on what I can check would be greatly appreciated. The car is basically stock other than the JLT CAI & Centerforce dual friction clutch.
Consider a professional fuel injector cleaning/flow test service such as InjectorRX.com if you suspect an injector problem. Once cleaned and tested, they are as good as new.

A random misfire/power loss can also be caused by excessive EGR flow. Especially at part throttle. Of course this assume there are ZERO vacuum leaks.
 
Consider a professional fuel injector cleaning/flow test service such as InjectorRX.com if you suspect an injector problem. Once cleaned and tested, they are as good as new.

A random misfire/power loss can also be caused by excessive EGR flow. Especially at part throttle. Of course this assume there are ZERO vacuum leaks.

So far it's been running fine since I last put gas in it and I bookmarked the InjectorRX site for future reference (looks like a good deal), As for vacuum leaks that's something i've never actually attempted to locate but from what Ive read around online the easiest (but probably not safest) way is to spray around areas in question with carb cleaner and listen for idle changes?
 
Consider a professional fuel injector cleaning/flow test service such as InjectorRX.com if you suspect an injector problem. Once cleaned and tested, they are as good as new.


A random misfire/power loss can also be caused by excessive EGR flow. Especially at part throttle. Of course this assume there are ZERO vacuum leaks.

I encounter the same problem with my boosted car. The car will idle and every few revolutions it will sound off as it is dropping a cylinder. It runs OK and makes good power but I would like to smooth out the idle. How can I determine if excess EGR flow is the issue?
 
For a modifed application, this could also be caused by a poor quality MAF signal. The usual reason is turbulent air flow around the MAF (air back wash). Sometimes changing the "indexing" of the MAF can help.

Or course things like installing the MAF too close to the TB or too close to a elbow can degrade the quality of the MAF signal.

Another possible cause could be the super charger vacuum bypass valve flapping at low load.

A low tech way to rule out excessive EGR flow is to disconnect and plug the EGR valve vacuum line. If it improves, this means that EGR flow has something to do with the problem.

Note, this method will not work if the EGR valve is partially stuck open.
 
For a modifed application, this could also be caused by a poor quality MAF signal. The usual reason is turbulent air flow around the MAF (air back wash). Sometimes changing the "indexing" of the MAF can help.

Or course things like installing the MAF too close to the TB or too close to a elbow can degrade the quality of the MAF signal.

Another possible cause could be the super charger vacuum bypass valve flapping at low load.

A low tech way to rule out excessive EGR flow is to disconnect and plug the EGR valve vacuum line. If it improves, this means that EGR flow has something to do with the problem.

Note, this method will not work if the EGR valve is partially stuck open.

When I initially got my car tuned after the install I had to play with the MAF a little bit but since than it has been trouble free. In terms of turbulent air causing noise for the MAF I basically used the rule that after a bend to keep a distance of twice the diameter of the tubing being used for the air to smooth back out. So I have 3 inch tubing on the pressurized side of of the supercharger and there is 6 inches of straight tube before the MAF. I also made it a point to follow my tuners close instructions on installing the new location for the IAC hose in the intake. With all that being said of course there is no guarantee that this solved my problem. I will check the EGR but is there anyway to test the blow off valve? Just going off of how it sounds it seems fully open until about 10-11 inches of vacuum where it appears to close (apparently it is just flapping but not fully closed till 0 inches of vacuum).