01 GT Blew Spark Plug Now No Start Fuel Coming Out Exhaust

[devenrocks]

Hello all,

Having a little problem I hope you all could help me with. A little info about car.... I have a 2001 GT 4.6 has Comp Cams Stage 2 XE268H cams and BBK cold air intake which are about the only mods It has. Was driving to work one day and blew spark plug from driver side #3 cylinder back. Actually the second time this has happened because last month the cylinder next to it #2 did it as well. Last time it did it the car would start and run somewhat fine, but this time it was different. It popped and slowly what kind of sounded like 1 cylinder at a time the engine died and wouldn't start back up. Had it towed home to start taking a look.

Got home and fixed the spark plug then tried starting it, Nothing. Kept trying and it started smelling like gas under the car so I looked under and it was pouring gas out the exhaust pipe. It wasn't a small drip it was literally pouring out the pipe like a water faucet was left on. Since I was working on my exhaust a few days before this it was cut off about a foot before rear end so it wasn't all the way out the back. I went to the trunk and unplugged the inertia switch and tried starting it and it would start rough for a few seconds then die no matter how much throttle was given. But it was still pouring it out the exhaust even when almost starting.

My exhaust is true duals straight back from manifolds and it's the passenger side that is leaking fuel none coming from driver side. I'm guessing a fuel injector is sticking open but is this much gas common when this happens and would this make a car not start? It's strange that I had no problems before this with them and after the spark plug blew it shows up? Do you think if I just put new fuel injectors it would fix it and run or does it sound like something else also?

Sorry for the long post I just wanted to give as much info as possible. Thank you for any help that you can give me!

 

[wmburns]

My vote. That when the spark plug blew out it damaged the wiring harness. The signal return is grounded causing the fuel injector to run all the time. Thus filling up the cylinder with fuel.

How to test? One method is to use a "noid" style test light to confirm that each fuel injector is actually "pulsing".

Another method is to pull the spark plugs and see which ones are wet. Pull the electrical connector to the affected cylinders. Turn the motor over to clear the fuel. Change the oil before trying to run it.

 

[devenrocks]

My vote. That when the spark plug blew out it damaged the wiring harness. The signal return is grounded causing the fuel injector to run all the time. Thus filling up the cylinder with fuel.

How to test? One method is to use a "noid" style test light to confirm that each fuel injector is actually "pulsing".

Another method is to pull the spark plugs and see which ones are wet. Pull the electrical connector to the affected cylinders. Turn the motor over to clear the fuel. Change the oil before trying to run it.

Thanks for the reply.

I pulled all spark plugs on side fuel is coming from and none were wet. I had one that was black past the threads which looked like it was blowing past threads probably about to blow the plug soon to. Put a helicoil in to fix that problem but didn't help the bigger situation. Gonna buy new fuel injectors and install just to see if that does anything.

Keep yall updated along the way.

 

[wmburns]

Gonna buy new fuel injectors and install just to see if that does anything.

I really hate to see changing parts on a guess in this case. Why? Because the fuel injectors worked before the blow out happened. The blow out shouldn't have affected the fuel injector. The risk here is the new fuel injectors will do the exact same thing.

Especially when it's relatively easy to test for the problem and then you will KNOW. A "noid" light set is easy to rent from your local auto parts store.

Once it is known that the fuel injector is "seeing" the firing pulse you can move forward making better use of your repair $$'s.

An option is to buy one fuel injector for the cylinder with the black spark plug. Likely that fuel injector has a problem anyway. Perhaps it's mechanically stuck open which is why the cylinder blew out in the first place.

However If this were my car, I would send the entire set to InjectorRX.com for cleaning and flow testing. This will positively confirm the state of the fuel injectors and you will be certain to be re-installing a know good set. I have had great luck with their service. I always put a known good set back into the motor projects I have worked on.

If $$'s are real tight, then send the one fuel injector out for testing.

 

[devenrocks]

I really hate to see changing parts on a guess in this case. Why? Because to fuel injectors worked before the blow out happened. The blow out shouldn't have affected the fuel injector. The risk here is the new fuel injectors will do the exact same thing.

Especially when it's relatively easy to test for the problem and then you will KNOW. A "noid" light set is easy to rent from your local auto parts store.

Once it is known that the fuel injector is "seeing" the firing pulse you can move forward making better use of your repair $$'s.

An option is to buy one fuel injector for the cylinder with the black spark plug. Likely that fuel injector has a problem anyway. Perhaps it's mechanically stuck open which is why the cylinder blew out in the first place.

However If this were my car, I would send the entire set to InjectorRX.com for cleaning and flow testing. This will positively confirm the state of the fuel injectors and you will be certain to be re-installing a know good set. I have had great luck with their service. I always put a known good set back into the motor projects I have worked on.

If $$'s are real tight, then send the one fuel injector out for testing.

I understand what you're saying. Since I'm off today I might run down to autozone and see if they have a noid light set and test em all. The weird thing is I blew 2 plugs on the driver side but all the fuel problems are on the passenger side. I had the fuel injectors out saturday on passenger side and tried to start and I could tell it was firing and trying to start on the driver side but when I put them back in nothing. Tried unplugging injectors one at a time and starting but still got nothing each time. If just one injector were sticking why would it keep the car from even firing from any cylinder?

 

[wmburns]

If just one injector were sticking why would it keep the car from even firing from any cylinder?

You are asking us to guess. The guesses get better the more information provided.

But if asking for some WAG's, how about:

• Are you POSITIVE that it is gas coming out the exhaust and not anti-freeze instead? I'm speaking from first hand experience here. Once my motor locked up during cranking. Could not bar the motor over by hand. Removed #1 spark plug and found the cylinder full of liquid. I smelled it and it smelled like gas. I assumed stuck open fuel injector. So I pulled the injector set and took to InjectorRX.com for cleaning. All good. Re-installed. The NEXT day motor locked up again. This time I correctly identified the liquid as coolant. Found a leaking/cracked intake manifold. New intake latter, all good.
• how about the motor was damaged by the hydro-lock event. Such as it jumped timing or there's some "other" internal motor damage. A compression test and/or a leak down test would help with trouble shooting.
• the fuse to the fuel injectors is blown. Confirm key on power at fuse F2.2 and F2.8. Or confirm key on +12 volts at each injector.
• forgot to re-attach the PCM/CCRM ground after performing work. There's a ground wire going around the battery that is sometimes accidentally disconnected during battery removal.

 

[devenrocks]

Went and picked up a OBD scan tool and got code P0193 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input. Any ideas what this means or how to fix?

 

[wmburns]

Remember that I started out by saying that the blown out spark plug could have damaged the wiring harness?

Look for a wiring problem to/from the fuel rail pressure sensor (FRPS). Most likely the signal return is shorted to the VREF line. Perform a through visual inspection looking for any evidence of external damage. Check the connector itself for bent/pushed pins, corrosion, dirt.

Use a mechanic's stethoscope to listen to a fuel injector during cranking. Can you hear the "click" during motor cranking? I also recommend using a "noid" style test light to confirm power and PCM signal pulse at the injector.

Test for key on VREF 5 volt power at the FRPS between the BN/WH and GY/RD wires.

FWIIW, the FRPS is a "no start" sensor. Which means that without a good FRPS sensor signal the PCM will not be able to start the motor.

>>From Ford manual.
P0193 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input (FRP)

• FRP signal shorted to VREF or VPWR.
• FRP signal open (gasoline only)
• Low fuel pressure (NG only)
• Damaged FRP sensor.
• Damaged PCM.
• High fuel pressure (caused by damaged fuel pressure regulator) NG.

 

[devenrocks]

Remember that I started out by saying that the blown out spark plug could have damaged the wiring harness?

Look for a wiring problem to/from the fuel rail pressure sensor (FRPS). Most likely the signal return is shorted to the VREF line. Perform a through visual inspection looking for any evidence of external damage. Check the connector itself for bent/pushed pins, corrosion, dirt.

FWIIW, the FRPS is a "no start" sensor. Which means that without a good FRPS sensor signal the PCM will not be able to start the motor.

>>From Ford manual.
P0193 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input (FRP)

• FRP signal shorted to VREF or VPWR.
• FRP signal open (gasoline only)
• Low fuel pressure (NG only)
• Damaged FRP sensor.
• Damaged PCM.
• High fuel pressure (caused by damaged fuel pressure regulator) NG.

Thank You. Will take a good look over everything this weekend including getting a noid light set and also checking for 12 volts on each injector like you said earlier. If I erase the code do you think anything would change temporarily or is it dead till its fixed?

 

[wmburns]

Thank You. Will take a good look over everything this weekend including getting a noid light set and also checking for 12 volts on each injector like you said earlier. If I erase the code do you think anything would change temporarily or is it dead till its fixed?

IMO hoping that simply clearing the code will "fix" it is pure "wish full" thinking. But heck. Why not wish? It doesn't take take long to clear DTC codes.

As far as checking for a noid pulse at the fuel injectors IMO the odds favor your problem being the FRPS and the P0193 DTC. Especially since this is a known "no start" DTC.

 

[devenrocks]

IMO hoping that simply clearing the code will "fix" it is pure "wish full" thinking. But heck. Why not wish? It doesn't take take long to clear DTC codes.

As far as checking for a noid pulse at the fuel injectors IMO the odds favor your problem being the FRPS and the P0193 DTC. Especially since this is a known "no start" DTC.

Thank You again. So i guess buying a FRPS is the next best step. Found this on amazon, is it the right part? Never heard of the fuel pressure sensor before this so not sure where it's located but seems like I find out there's a new sensor that could go bad every month lol.

Amazon product ASIN B00C81T99MView: https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Original-Equipment-0261230093-Pressure/dp/B00C81T99M/ref=pd_sbs_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00C81T99M&pd_rd_r=fcdaa475-7be3-11e8-8492-c5733f269e18&pd_rd_w=fENQ1&pd_rd_wg=bKam2&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=5825442648805390339&pf_rd_r=HX4YY8N09YZBME33X8RF&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=HX4YY8N09YZBME33X8RF

 

[wmburns]

So i guess buying a FRPS is the next best step.

Sigh. Let me ask you a question. Did it work before the spark plug blow out happened? Did the blow out happen anywhere near the FRPS?

If this were my project my first thought would be a wiring fault CAUSED by the spark plug blow out. But if you won't be upset spending $$ on a part that may not fix your problem then go for it. At the minimum you will will know that the FRPS isn't the problem.

I'm a big believer in Occam's razor. Following Occam's razor wouldn't it make more sense that the signal return line from the FRPS is sending a signal to the PCM such that the PCM "thinks" the fuel pressure is too low and keeps increasing fuel pressure. This makes the fuel pressure so high that way too much fuel delivered with each pulse. This also fits the DTC symptom as well.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Occam's_razor

So if this were my car I would be looking very closely at the wiring harness everywhere near where the spark plug blew out. Even going so far as to pull back the covering surrounding the harness to inspect the individual wires.

Use a mechanic's stethoscope to listen to a fuel injector during cranking. Can you hear the "click" during motor cranking? I also recommend using a "noid" style test light to confirm power and PCM signal pulse at the injector.

Test for key on VREF 5 volt power at the FRPS between the BN/WH and GY/RD wires.

Recent thread with some more information.
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...el-pressure-after-new-pump-and-filter.904240/

Of course I also have a full function ODB2 scanner which allows for easy monitoring of the fuel pressure PID. Then it possible to see how the fuel pressure changes when the sensor is disconnect. Also could see what happens the signal return is shorted VREF ground. With the FRPS sensor disconnected this gives a way to trouble shoot just the wires. If there's a break, open, or short in the wiring this will show up because what the PCM "sees" won't change.


ForScan ODB2 scanner w ELM327 USB

https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/resources/forscan-odb2-scanner-w-elm327-usb.57/

 

[devenrocks]

Sigh. Let me ask you a question. Did it work before the spark plug blow out happened? Did the blow out happen anywhere near the FRPS?

If this were my project my first thought would be a wiring fault CAUSED by the spark plug blow out. But if you won't be upset spending $$ on a part that may not fix your problem then go for it. At the minimum you will will know that the FRPS isn't the problem.

I'm a big believer in Occam's razor. Following Occam's razor wouldn't it make more sense that the signal return line from the FRPS is sending a signal to the PCM such that the PCM "thinks" the fuel pressure is too low and keeps increasing fuel pressure. The fuel pressure is so high that way too much fuel delivered with each pulse. This also fits the DTC symptom as well.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Occam's_razor

So if this were my car I would be looking very closely at the wiring harness everywhere near where the spark plug blew out. Even going so far as to pull back the covering surrounding the harness to inspect the individual wires.

Of course I also have a full function ODB2 scanner which allows for easy monitoring of the fuel pressure PID. Then it possible to see how the fuel pressure changes when the sensor is disconnect. Also could see what happens the signal return is shorted VREF ground. With the FRPS sensor disconnected this gives a way to trouble shoot just the wires. If there's a break, open, or short in the wiring this will show up because what the PCM "sees" won't change.


ForScan ODB2 scanner w ELM327 USB

https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/resources/forscan-odb2-scanner-w-elm327-usb.57/

I'm not sure if this caused by a bad FRPS but a few months before this it's been hard to start after running a little while. I would start cold at home and no problems drive 10 minutes down the street to get some gas and try to start and the first turn over would not start. Try again and it would fire up but when I put it in drive to leave if I didn't give it a little gas it would die again. Sometimes coming up to a stop sign if I brake to hard when it came to a stop it would die and again hard to start. I learned to brake a lot slower to prevent that but still happens time to time.

 

[woody00]

maybe a stuck fuel injector? check your injectors... my buddy has a 2002 or 2003 terminator cobra(i forgot, but its a terminator) and his engine hyrdro locked due to the injector dumping too much fuel into the engine and making it clean with zero lubercation... id look at that first... his oil pan was pure gas... little oil.. the gas due to the overactive fuel injector cleaned the whole engine with zero lubrication... caused it to lock up... just spreading my info...hes gonna get it rebuilt for 1600.. thats with him taking it out and taking it the guy...not in the car

 

[woody00]

drop your oil pan and see if it smells like gas

 

[wmburns]

I'm not sure if this caused by a bad FRPS but a few months before this it's been hard to start after running a little while. I would start cold at home and no problems drive 10 minutes down the street to get some gas and try to start and the first turn over would not start. Try again and it would fire up but when I put it in drive to leave if I didn't give it a little gas it would die again. Sometimes coming up to a stop sign if I brake to hard when it came to a stop it would die and again hard to start. I learned to brake a lot slower to prevent that but still happens time to time.

The problems about sound like an idle problem (IAC).

Here's some information regarding trouble shooting. However I personally would not trouble shoot until the DTC code at hand has been resolved.

Also remember the part about checking the FRPS intake vacuum reference line for vacuum leaks?

Troubleshoot IAC idle problems 1996-2004
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/resources/troubleshoot-iac-idle-problems-1996-2004.13/

However, trouble shooting these "issues" kinda stalled because we have all sorts of "questions" but not really any test results to draw any conclusions. Recommend doing some more tests and/or visual inspections and posting the results or start replacing parts. Given the DTC code the FRPS is as good a place to start as any.

 

[devenrocks]

Update

Got her running! Changed the FRPS and started up after a few attempts.

But man does it drive like $@#%! First it has no power. Almost flooring it does nothing but take a half mile to get up 10 mph. Never had a problem with it being under powered before. Second it dies when slowing down to make a turn. It's always died when stopping (which it still does) but never was it this bad. Then when trying to start it'll start but it seems like its running on 2 cylinders and responds to no throttle until after about 15 seconds it'll rev up.

Cleaned the IAC Valve hoping that would do something but it didn't. Any ideas what the hell is going on with this thing? Guess I'll keep it out of service till I get this fixed because I don't want to be getting off interstate and it dies that would suck.

 

[wmburns]

Has the original P0193 DTC code been confirmed gone?

Are there any new DTC codes? Remember that a ton of work/repairs have been done.

Suggest starting the trouble shooting over from the top. Pay close attention to any ignition issues. For example any moisture in the spark plug wells. Now that there's a new FRPS, it would also make sense to CONFIRM the fuel pressure is as expected.

Speaking of starting over trouble shooting from the top. We get into questions such as:

• Has the fuel injector pulse been confirmed (mechanically and/or electrically)? I have found using a mechanic's stethoscope the easiest way to confirm an injector pulse mechanically. Note if an injector click has been confirmed mechanically there not as much reason to confirm electrically.
• Has spark been confirmed at each cylinder?

 

[devenrocks]

Has the original P0193 DTC code been confirmed gone?

Are there any new DTC codes? Remember that a ton of work/repairs have been done.

Suggest starting the trouble shooting over from the top. Pay close attention to any ignition issues. For example any moisture in the spark plug wells. Now that there's a new FRPS, it would also make sense to CONFIRM the fuel pressure is as expected.

Speaking of starting over trouble shooting from the top. We get into questions such as:

• Has the fuel injector pulse been confirmed (mechanically and/or electrically)? I have found using a mechanic's stethoscope the easiest way to confirm an injector pulse mechanically. Note if an injector click has been confirmed mechanically there not as much reason to confirm electrically.
• Has spark been confirmed at each cylinder?

Thank you for the reply and thank you for all the help so far. I was hoping I wouldn't have to come back after getting it started but here I am lol.

The original code is gone. No codes at all now. The car shakes bad at idle and I know it's definitely misfiring now. It'll start and idle at around 900 for about 15 seconds and then drop to about 600 where it'll jump up and down. If I'm lucky and it doesn't die when I put it in drive or reverse it'll drop way down to like 3 or 400 and come back up to maybe 600 and rpm will jump like crazy. It's throwing no codes and I just can't tell which side it's misfiring from but it kinda sounds like both.

Will check fuel injectors and fuel pressure tomorrow hopefully if I'm off work. So you're thinking it's running bad and misfiring because it's not getting enough fuel or somehow fuel related?

 

[wmburns]

At this point you really have no idea WHY the motor is misfiring. So why guess? Test!

Test for spark. Test to see if the injectors are pulsing.

Still can't find an answer. Perform a compression test.

Note, it does take time for the PCM to re-learn new idle trim values after a battery disconnect.