02 GT - Maf Housing Cracked

jeffs08GT

New Member
Feb 29, 2008
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Hey Guys,

I was just putting my Steeda CAI on my 02 GT and noticed that there is a crack near where you screw in the bolts on one of the corners of my MAF housing, like someone had screwed it in too hard. Does anyone know if anyplace you could buy a replacement MAF housing without paying for the entire meter?
 
Well I guess I'm just gonna buy the entire MAF again and not worry about it, 1 quesiton i have though, does the wire "screen/filter" come when you buy the new maf or is that a separate part?
 
Here's a pic of what I mean. Do you retain this for the CAI install, and if so, does it come with the new MAF? The one I have is bent and destroyed to hell.
 

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I'm just wondering what the purpose really is, this thing has been in there for 26,000 miles (just now changing intake) and there's absolutely nothing in it, unless it's just to regulate / "smooth" airflow.
 
Ya im going too, I asked Steeda and they said it's not reused with their CAI too so that's good enough for me. I'm glad because the piece is pretty worn out and wouldn't hold a good seal anymore.
 
Kilgore Trout is correct, it is an air straightener.

Until you put a supercharger or turbo on your car, it will not be any restriction. There are plenty of other restrictions that more than make up for any potential restriction of the MAF screen.

The MAF screen is used to minimize the "electronic noise" the MAF picks up due to air flow variations and oscillations created by bends in the intake tract.

If you take it out, you'll need a tuner to tweak around the noise variations by jacking up the hysteresis values in the program. In english that means you have to reduce the sensitivity of the MAF. Which means you end up compensating by richening at WOT. That means less power and more fuel consumption.

If you take it out, you won't lose or gain any significant power, but you will lose fuel economy and possibly some smoothness under acceleration.

People claiming that you gain power from removing it are only seeing a power increase due to the air/fuel ratio being leaned out from improper metering. Your are as likely to lose power from the computer trying to compensate for the "electronic noise" by adding fuel to ensure engine safety.

You are better off leaving it in place, you'll get no appreciable benefit from removing it, and potentially introduce the possibilities of several problems down the road.

As far as buying a new maf, just get one out of a wrecked car, you do not need an aftermarket MAF unless you are making serious power. The stock MAF is actually a very good design and can be tuned up to 400 hp naturally aspirated and can be tuned for different sized injectors. As far as physical restrictions, stock is 80mm (90mm in Lightnings and Terminators), unless you have a throttlebody bigger than that or you have a turbo/supercharger, the MAF will NEVER be a restriction - that is simple physics.

Bottom line, the only time you need to get an aftermarket MAF is when you have maxed out the voltage on the stock unit. Companies telling you that their MAF makes more power than stock in a stock application are doing so because they are selling you something to make money. They are "making power" by leaning out your air/fuel ratio using their "advanced velocity tubes". An aftermarket MAF will only work correctly if a tuner programs your ECU to correct for their so-called "superiority" to the stock MAF.

The legitimate MAF companies out their strictly sell a MAF on the basis of being able to meter a larger amount of air than the stock meter - which is what an aftermarket MAF is supposed to do. The only way to do that is a complete new resistor set. Those companies that tell you to re-use the stock resistor element offer no true increase in metering capability. A quality aftermarket MAF simply has a much larger range that can continue to meter beyond where the stock units max out, but all must be tuned specifically to your application. You'll rarely ever hear them tell you that their units flow more air than the stock units because it's not a real selling point. On the other side of the argument, what idiot would design a restriction into an aftermarket MAF?

In any case, the real selling point is the amount of air the meter can handle which is typically simplified using a max horsepower value. Some are larger than stock, but in virtually all cases the throttle body diameter (stock or otherwise), which is beyond the MAF company's ability to control, is smaller than even a stock MAF.

All that means is that until you are forced induction, the meter will almost never be a significant restriction. In fact I really can't see it becoming an airflow restriction prior to it maxing out voltage - and that is a testament to the excellent design of the stock meter.

Sorry to get up on the soap box, I hope i don't offend anyone. I just tell it the way I have seen it. I want the money you pour into your car to be well spent. If you are anything like me that money is hard earned. I learned all this only after I had purchased my third MAF. I certainly have no wish to be cheated out of my money and I imagine neither do you. If you would like some suggestions or any information please just ask.
 
The guys at Steeda told me not to resuse the screen with the Steeda CAI, now I'm confused. I did pick up some JBweld and I'm going to try it, but I'm leery about repairing this part just because I really don't want to risk getting dirt into my engine, ya know?

My concern with putting it back in has nothing to do with gaining performance, rather with the fact the one I have looks pretty ragged and I'm concerned about it's ability to seal to the new Steeda CAI, and because it feels like when it's in between the MAF and the filter housing it doesn't fit properly.
 
:lol: Damn, I wonder how much time, energy, and brain power this guy used to come up w/a "complicated" physics equation to say matter slows down wind speed, NOT ACTUALLY straightens the air, its gasses, not matter, gasses are not malleable. Just take it out, your computer will adjust, nothing lost and nothing gained. Use the rest of your valuable time on the cracked MAF housing. Throw the screen away unless you want to go back stock! If you buy another, go stock unless you are running serious horsepower, the larger one would be counterproductive!
 
I got some JD weld to fix the cracked MAF housing and got a replacement off ebay for $75 just in case. I figure worse case, if the JB weld works good I have a part that I'll need at some point anyway.