03 COBRA bolt on's?????

Ok so it sounds like you need the whole shabam!! For starters MGW for the shifter!! I would go with a SCT tune instead of diablo. Also for brakes go with baer. they are just about the best. You will need to upgrade your fuel system!! Duel SVT focus pumps should do the trick nicely. Also go with a cold air intake. JLT is the best out there. so go with them. I wouldn't go with the pakage from above. There are guys in this forum that will give you better info on what pullies to go with. Also you will need some suspension upgrades due to wheel hop. I would go with some MM suspension upgrades. I mean if you are going to spend alot of money, you might as well do it right the first time right?? I hope that this helps ya out.

I would do some reasearch on RPM Outlet before committing any of your hard earned cash. RPM Outlet has pissed off their fair share of customers and they don't have the best reputation. Lots and lots of complaints against them can be found in all Mustang forums.

slitherin' 03 said:

Hey all. I am planning a bolt on project for my cobra. I already have a bassani x, no cats with borla exhaust, upr cai and max moto coil overs.

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Ditch the UPR CAI. You want a straight through design for this car. Any bends before the MAF will cause tuning issues because laminar airflow across the sensor gets disrupted.
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slitherin' 03 said:

This is what I want to do:

Rpm outlet provides this kit:

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I would stay away from RPMOutlet as stated previously. Do a search on all the Mustang forums and you'll see why.

slitherin' 03 said:

Also in my quest for info I determined I need the following:

< upgraded injectors, more boost motor runs lean at high rpm

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Stock injectors are good for 500RWHP. If you decide to move up to a twinscrew (Whipple or KB) later then you will need some 55 or 60lb injectors, but for 500RWHP the stock injectors are fine.

slitherin' 03 said:

< mass air manipulator>

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Not sure what you mean by manipulator, but you will need either an upgraded MAF or something like a MAFia.

slitherin' 03 said:

< fuel pump and fuel rail upgrade. I have heard about the duel svt focus pumps....is this a good idea??? more info on fuel requirements needed.

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The dual focus pumps are last years news. The latest craze is dual Ford GT pumps (GT Supercar, not Mustang!). Either way you won't need new pumps until you go with a twin screw blower. A KB BAP can be used to safely provide the extra fuel in most instances, again this is once you go twin screw. Fuel rails are not needed either. Lot of guys out there running well over 600RWHP on the stock rails.

slitherin' 03 said:

Cant forget about a clutch upgrade too.

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True, and there's plenty to choose from and no clear front runner. Ask 10 Terminator owners what clutch to run and you'll get 9 different answers! One thing they will all agree on is once you start making big power you need to swap out the stock 10-spline input shaft on the T56 for a stronger 26-spline input shaft. The 10-spline units have a nasty habit of shearing off. If you're going to go through the trouble of replacing the clutch, might as well do this upgrade at the same time. An LDC cooling mod would be an appropriate upgrade too while the tranny is out!

slitherin' 03 said:

So am I gonna see 500rwp??

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Here's an easy recipe for 500RWHP and it's a hell of a lot cheaper than what you're planning:

Checklist

Mid-pipe (You have)
Cat-Back (You have)
Good CAI - (JLT RAI or K&N FIPK II are good choices) $150-$200
Stiegemeier Stage IV ported blower/Inlet/Throttlebody ($695)
2.80 Upper pulley (good for 15lbs boost) $100
100MM idler pulley $120
Good dynotune - $250?

That right there will get you right at 500RWHP. Once you start eclipsing that 500RWHP area that's when a whole slew of additional mods and money comes in. I may have left out a couple things like colder plugs, I'm sure someone will correct me though.

slitherin' 03 said:

Also, what about the drivetrain. I am not launching on slicks at the strip every weekend, but I do drive pretty hard. How long is my rear gonna last!!??

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Depends on how good you are at finessing the clutch and preventing wheelhop. There are guys out there consistently cutting sub 1.8 60-foot times on a stock IRS with only the addition of a girdle and some sticky rubber. Once that rear end starts hopping like a bunny though you start breaking stuff.

slitherin' 03 said:

Has anyone heard of a good shifter out there? I talked to a guy who suggested a MGW or pro 5.0

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MGW hands down. Look no further. Best shifter currently available.

slitherin' 03 said:

Sorry for the crazy unorganized post, but answers would be greatly appreciated.

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Doing my best to clean it up for ya and answer your questions.

slitherin' 03 said:

OH yeah! Forgot about the dyno tune! Definitely need that!

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ABSOLUTELY! No substitute for a good tune. You can throw parts at this car all day long, but without the right tune you won't make the power you want and could possible damage the engine. The Terminator motor is a pretty damn robust until right off the factory floor, but all it takes is a momentary lean condition to wreak havoc! Don't spend all your money on parts and then go cheap on a canned tune from a handheld tuner. Don't get me wrong here, there are mail order tunes available for every possible combination out there and these tunes are written by the best in the business. You still need to put the car on the dyno even after loading up a custom tune with your xCal2, Predator, or Livewire. There's nothing more important than ensuring your A/F ratio is correct.

slitherin' 03 said:

Also, I need to stop.

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Me too. I've typed a lot here and most of it has been discussed in these forums previously. I understand you're new so I'll cut ya some slack. My fingers are getting fat and needed a workout any way.

slitherin' 03 said:

http://www.rpmoutlet.com/03cobrabaer.htm

good idea???? good price???THANKS!

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No. Not in my opinion, but please go out and search other forums and make that determination yourself.

Also, take a half hour and read the 03/04 FAQ. It's an INVALUABLE source of info on your car.

http://www.stangshiftergaskets.com/2003_2004faqs.htm

U.M.

slitherin' 03 said:

I agree with the cooling option. I will look into what you recommend. Do you think an AFCO 4 core aluminum cooler would do the trick????

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Are you talking about a heat exchanger? What type of cooler are you talking about?

U.M.

Unless you plan on hot lapping your car around the track that will give you zero horsepower gains. All a larger HE will do for you is cool the intercooler down quicker when the car is not in boost. Great for the road racers and guys who hot lap their cars at the drag strip, but not really worth it for a DD.

U.M.

I have and recommend Billetflow pullies. I run NGK TR6IX irridiums...they are a colder plug

Billetflow is a great choice for pulleys as stated above. See if you can find someone in your local area that already has an Eaton M112 pulley removal/installation tool. They are expensive. Now that I think about it... doesn't Billetflow rent these tools now? Check their website.

Also, if you can swing it go with the SCT xCal2 instead of the Diablosport offering. It's a better handheld tuner all around.

U.M.

slitherin' 03 said:

Thanks again guys:

I ordered the MGW shifter.....should be here Wed.

As for the pullies:

I would just order them online from somewhere....dunno where yet. Looking for the best price still. Is the the 4psi pulley the 2.81 or the 2.93 dia.????

Thanks again!

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Stop trying to get the lowest price if you can cause the old saying is true... you get what you pay for!

The 3.10 pulley will give you an additional 4 PSI over the stock 3.65 8 PSI pulley for a total of 12 PSI. Since there's no added cost you might as well go with a 2.93 which is considered the best all around pulley for a non-ported Eaton. The 2.93 will bring the boost up by approximately 6 PSI for a total of 14 PSI. As stated earlier check out the Billetflow pulleys. They can be purchased directly from Doug at Billetflow. http://www.billetflow.com

The MGW is a great shifter!

U.M.