03 Cobra T56 Into My Fox (speedo & Clutch Fork Position)

Jason 302

10 Year Member
Aug 9, 2003
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Newark, Ohio
I know this has been discussed before, but I just want to make sure I haven't missed any options as far as making my speedo work. For those who don't know, the T56 out of the 03 Cobra has an electric speedo, and the fox has a mechanical. For those who have done this swap, what option did you go with?

Option 1: Cable X $340
Converts electric signal into mechanical motion.
Pros: Allows use of stock gauge and stock cable.
Cons: Mixed reviews on reliability, accuracy, durability, delay. Where to mount it?
http://www.atrol.com/cablex.htm
cx3012w-58screw-on1.JPG


Option 2: Modify tailshaft $325-$400
Modifies the tailshaft to receive mechanical speedo cable
Pros: Clean factory style installation
Cons: Requires longer cable speedo cable, have to take apart tailshaft + shipping costs
http://t56cablespeedometer.com/t56-cable-drive-conversion/
t56-1.jpg


Option 3: Aftermarket Gauges $675
Swap out the factory gauges for aftermarket electric gauges
Pro: Clean look, simple solution
Cons: Most expensive option
http://www.florida50.com/buy-1987-1993-mustang-instrument-clusters-2.htm
P1060879.JPG


I found a smoking deal on this transmission and I couldn't pass it up, was hoping to get some more feedback from what I've already researched. Thanks guys.
 
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If it were me, i'd do the tailshaft mod.
But I like mechanical connections as opposed to electronic and I prefer the stock cluster.
I used to see this topic on some of the modular conversion forums.
Some guys used the cable x, but with mixed reviews like you said.

I ithink D&D did something too with the tailshaft, but that's a while ago. Haven't even heard that name lately.
 
If it were me, i'd do the tailshaft mod.
But I like mechanical connections as opposed to electronic and I prefer the stock cluster.
I used to see this topic on some of the modular conversion forums.
Some guys used the cable x, but with mixed reviews like you said.

I ithink D&D did something too with the tailshaft, but that's a while ago. Haven't even heard that name lately.

That's the direction I'm leaning right now. I've heard a speedo cable from a early 90's F150 will work for a longer cable. I need to call D&D and see what they say as well.

Google gps speedometer. There are also heads up displays. Just another option but maybe you already ruled it out. Heres an example.

http://www.speedhut.com/gauge/GR338...TJ7_AhhqvvbvJ6BIRf46KD-FKuaRzRnIagaAjiS8P8HAQ

No, thanks, I didn't think of those. Good looking out. I really like the idea, just not sure how to make it a clean, factory look. I don't want a box on top of my dash or a random gauge sticking out somewhere. I'll keep searching.
 
So before I spend money modifying this transmission, I found another potential problem with the swap. I'm starting to wonder if it's worth swapping out my TKO for the T56.

The clutch fork sits at 7 o'clock on the T56, and 9 o'clock from the factory on the fox. Is there any way I can keep my long tubes and run the 7 o'clock clutch fork position? Don't really won't to go back to shorties. Doesn't look like I can convert it to 9 o'clock looking at the pivot ball and opening on the tranny.
hbnHsci.jpg
 
Just searching around to see what others did and came across this. I'm aware it's an old thread... Time will tell, but I'm pretty happy with the inital results of installing the Cable-x. It will not solve the factory cruise, though, as the VSS won't cleanly adapt to install into the box. You could probably fabricate an adapter, but my solution was to install a Dakota signal converter. See my Black Jack thread for more details.

Pros: Infinitely adjustable, so you're not stuck with a drive:driven gear combination that, though optimized, remains off by 3%+. For my 4.10s, this is especially true. Also, no more chewed up 23-tooth driven gears.

If using the Dakota, it's even more adjustable, and the adjustment is as easy as pulling up their app and changing a multiplier. I've done it on the fly to dial in an exact reading while cruising.

Cons: Cable-x is very sensitive to interference and sends erratic 'jumps' to my speedo when stopped. Didn't do it on my test drives while moving, though. I should probably run its own dedicated power supply, but spliced into another available switched power source already under dash

Still bounces a bit at low speed. Seems pretty stable above 20-25 mph.

Slow to register while accelerating from a stop. Once rolling keeps registered down to 10 or so mph.
 
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It would have been great if the OP had posted back which option that he chose and how it worked out. He hasn't been here since 11/17 so perhaps he didn't do the swap.

It's interesting that you chose the Cable X. The results aren't terrible and seems to be working for you.

Thinking thru this sway I would probably choose the tail shaft option due to being closest to factory style and would likely have best reliability in the long run.
 
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