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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

03 GT Coil-Spring Install Help

  • Thread starter Thread starter 03gtatangguy
  • Start date Start date Jul 7, 2004
0

03gtatangguy

New Member
Jul 7, 2004
4
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0
Jul 7, 2004
#1
  • Jul 7, 2004
  • #1
I need some solid tech advice concerning the installation of aftermarket springs on my 03 GT. I have Ford Racing B springs and it doesn't appear I can afford to pay someone to install them, at least that is the case with the places I have checked here in St. Louis. Any suggestions, and technical advice/guidance would be fantastic!
 

MineralgreyGT01

New Member
Jun 23, 2002
519
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0
Normal, Illinois
Jul 7, 2004
#2
  • Jul 7, 2004
  • #2
Even though I don't like Mustang World too much, they have a good write up.

http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/steedaspring1.htm
 

SHOStang

Founding Member
May 8, 2002
182
0
0
Missouri
Jul 7, 2004
#3
  • Jul 7, 2004
  • #3
Hope this helps
http://www.stangnet.com/tech/spring.html
 

BCB00GT

Founding Member
Mar 5, 2002
420
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17
Jul 7, 2004
#4
  • Jul 7, 2004
  • #4
I used both sets of instructions to get a good idea of what needs to be done and how. Install wasn't hard but took a little while, but I wasn't in a hurry and wasn't looking to make a stupid mistake.
 
S

stang9300

New Member
Jan 14, 2004
111
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North Carolina
Jul 7, 2004
#5
  • Jul 7, 2004
  • #5
Those instructions tell you take off a bunch of crap that you don't need to. Here is the quickest and easiest way that I have found to do it. I hope this helps>

Front: Jack up one side of the car place a jack stand under the frame. Take off the wheel. Put the jack under the control arm to support it. Take the nut off the sway bar. Take the nut off the tie rod, and the lower ball joint. If you have a ball joint and or tie rod end seperator use it to break loose the tie rod and ball joint. If you don't have a seperator, just hit the knuckle of spindle with a hammer at the tie rod and at the ball joint. Careful not to hit the ball joint or tie rod. A few good whacks and it should pop loose. After the ball joint, tie rod and sway bar are loose the strut, brakes and all should swing out of the way. Lower the control arm slowly and spring should fall out, if not a pry bar should pop it out. Put the new spring in place and jack the control arm back up, and fasten everything back down.

Rear: Jack up the whole rear end of the car and place jack stands under the frame. Take off the wheels. Place the jack under the differential. Take loose the struts and shocks on both sides. Lower the differential down slowly the springs on both sides should come out. If not you can take your foot and press down on the axle to give some more room. Put the new springs in place, jack the differential back up and secure the shocks and struts.
 

twogts4us

15 Year Member
Apr 1, 2004
4,188
12
79
Dunedin, FL
Jul 8, 2004
#6
  • Jul 8, 2004
  • #6
Stang9300 makes it sounds so easy and straight-forward. I am gonna do this mod myself...with some help from my wife, of course! I am also doing shocks and struts at the same time though. Stang9300, any additional advice for swapping out the shocks and struts? I like the MRT Suspension Kit W/Illumina 5 ways. MRT has it for $700, but I also found it on Ebaymotors (not sure if the springs are the same though) for $564 shipped.
Sorry, didn't mean to hijack the thread...
 
S

stang9300

New Member
Jan 14, 2004
111
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North Carolina
Jul 8, 2004
#7
  • Jul 8, 2004
  • #7
I would actually go ahead and do the struts before disconnecting the tie rod or ball joint on the front. You will still need to unbolt the sway bar though. Take the two bolts in the bottom of the strut loose and the nut on top using an open end wrench and a screw driver or an impact gun, and there is a clip holding the abs line wire to the strut that you will need to take off. You may want to take off the caliper too, to prevent the line from being pulled loose. Lower down the control arm and you can get it out pretty easily. You may have to compress the strut a little. When you are putting the nut back on the top of the new strut, its best to use a screw driver and an wrench in order to make sure its tight. When you get the strut in place you can go ahead and remove the tie rod and ball joint as I descibed in the above post, to change the springs.

If you are lowering your car 1.5" or more. You might want to think about going ahead and putting on some CC plates while you are changing the strut, so you can get it aligned.
 

red ink

Founding Member
Apr 8, 2002
746
1
0
Arizona
Jul 8, 2004
#8
  • Jul 8, 2004
  • #8
You might need a REALLY big wrench or power tools to take off that damn stut. Mine was really gay. I didnt have a big wrench either. Other than that the back is really straightforward like the other guys said
 

Ryan02Stang

Active Member
Jun 17, 2003
1,181
0
36
Arlington Heights, Illinois
Jul 8, 2004
#9
  • Jul 8, 2004
  • #9
Stang9300 is Exactly right. I Just installed my springs this weekend with no experience. It took me about 3 hours to complete.
 
B

BlkNShiny03

Member
Oct 14, 2003
39
0
6
Gainesville, Georgia
Jul 8, 2004
#10
  • Jul 8, 2004
  • #10
I had difficulty getting my rear springs to just go in, so I had to run to the Zone and got a spring compression tool. When you return the tool, they give you all your money back.
 

twogts4us

15 Year Member
Apr 1, 2004
4,188
12
79
Dunedin, FL
Jul 8, 2004
#11
  • Jul 8, 2004
  • #11
Cool - thanks to all! Yeah, I think I'd rent a spring compressor just to make the job a little easier. Can't wait to get rid of the 4X4 look!
 
0

03gtatangguy

New Member
Jul 7, 2004
4
0
0
Jul 8, 2004
#12
  • Jul 8, 2004
  • #12
Thanks for the advice. What size sockets would one need to do these teardowns and assemblies?

Thanks agan!
 
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