13" Rear brake upgrade. Did I just imagine this kit?

[Rickey_Bobby]

a while back I remember seeing a 13" rear brake upgrade kit that included rotors, lines, and a custom made bracket to relocate & retain the stock caliper.

Anyone have any clue of what I'm talking about? Know of the product?

Just want to make sure it isn't available before I hit the CNC to make it.

 

[san~man]

Baer made a 13" rear kit, but the consensus among most was that it was crap.

 

[007]

Yeah it was selling on brothersperformance. It was very cheap and it was generally regarded as crap as San said. I'm sure it looks great though. I considered it, but I'll probably do rear cobras eventually.

 

[san~man]

Yeah it was selling on brothersperformance. It was very cheap and it was generally regarded as crap as San said. I'm sure it looks great though. I considered it, but I'll probably do rear cobras eventually.

Ya, I did the rear Cobra swap instead. Vented rotors ftw.

 

[DropTopPony]

Steeda has a version also.

 

[WillDuhhBeast]

I have the Baer kit.

As far as performance goes, I don't know that it does a thing, but it makes things look better rather than just having big brakes in the front.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Baer makes it


It is crap though compared to the vented 11.65" Cobra rotor in terms of performance. Guys have also reported clicking noises and issue with their e-brake using them.

 

[KronicRacer]

this kit is more for looks the rotor is not vented.

not like the track kit which features vented rotors. the track kit also comes with the 900.00 price tag.

moral of story you get what you pay for

 

[bdcardinal]

baer makes the kit, its more for show. i have the cobra rear kit with 11.65" rear rotors. the best by far rear brake kit is the Willwood 4 piston rear kit with a drum parking brake. although it works best with their 6 piston front brake kit.

 

[WillDuhhBeast]

Baer makes it


It is crap though compared to the vented 11.65" Cobra rotor in terms of performance. Guys have also reported clicking noises and issue with their e-brake using them.

+1 on the noises.


I would say mine are grinding, almost growning noises. It only happens when I back out of my driveway though. It also only occurs when I haven't driven the car for a day.

 

[Rickey_Bobby]

Thanks for the replies.

I'm trying to ballance the braking system to match the weight, tires, and suspension of the car. Right now the ABS is out and the fronts will lock at ANY speed if I stomp the brakes. The rears do little. Even though they can only aid in about 20% of my total braking force, Thats a 20% I don't have right now.

Did you guys with the cobra rear notice any differance? If so, what?

Thanks

 

[PowerSplash93]

I had also seen the 13" kit on ebay for pretty cheap, but that was about a year ago now

 

[Stang|ess]

Cobra/Bullitt/Mach/GT rear calipers are all the same.

They just use a bracket that allows the caliper to relocate allowing you to use a larger rotor.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Thanks for the replies.

I'm trying to ballance the braking system to match the weight, tires, and suspension of the car. Right now the ABS is out and the fronts will lock at ANY speed if I stomp the brakes. The rears do little. Even though they can only aid in about 20% of my total braking force, Thats a 20% I don't have right now.

Did you guys with the cobra rear notice any differance? If so, what?

Thanks

To really get the most out of your braking performance you really need to fix the ABS. I know it's expensive, but on cars with ABS, they rely on the ABS system for the most part to proportion the system. The non-abs cars are plumbed differently, so when the ABS is out on an ABS car, you are really at a disadvantage vs buying a car that didn't have ABS to begin with

Stonger rear brakes will help out, but it's hit or miss as to if it will be perfect or not. In my opinion A 13.25" rear rotor is too big for the Mustang.

The cobra rotor will make a difference and be better balanced, but you still should fix the ABS

 

[Rickey_Bobby]

I do intend on fixing the ABS, But when I'm out at sebring, the ABS would KILL me. It is biased more toward a safe stop, rather than a fast stop. It feels like the car is floating when it was working properly. I would usually disconnect the wire harness to the controller for the track and brake by feel, ended up taking 9 sec off of my average lap time... But still very unballanced.

I thought of using a proportioning valve, but they can't increas pressure to the rear, only decrease the pressure @ the front compared to the rear. That means I am decreasing my braking ability.

So, If I got cobra brackets and rotors I would be good? I'm guessing I would have to use cobra pads assuming they are thinner to compensate for the thicker vented rotor?

Also, where can I find the 13" rear unvented rotors?

 

[Mustang5L5]

I

So, If I got cobra brackets and rotors I would be good? I'm guessing I would have to use cobra pads assuming they are thinner to compensate for the thicker vented rotor?

Also, where can I find the 13" rear unvented rotors?

If you are road racing. don't even consider the 13" kit. It's not really suited for performance. The rotors are not vented at all. Venting refers to the rotor having a gap in the center where air is centrigully forced as the rotor spins which cools the rotor. The stock GT rotors do not have this gap and the baer 13" rotors do not as well. The drilled holes and slots on the surface of the rotor do nothing for performance.

You should just consider the cobra rotors only. They are vented for cooling and better matched for the fronts. You are right about the pads. They are thinner. If your GT pads are worn, you may be able to use them

 

[Rickey_Bobby]

Ok, so how would I go about making the ABS a little more agressive? Even with it on and working, the rears come no where close to breaking traction while the fronts are. I'm running 275 kuhmo ecsta mx's (darn sticky) in the front.

I Just want to be able to brake as late as the porsch guys do

...ok, so my sights are set a little high...


Right now they gain about 2 car lengths on me into a turn, then I come flying out sideways on the outside to get the distance back. I can run the same overall time... but If I could brake better I would make up more time than if I added 100 more horses.

 

[tomustang]

Ok, so how would I go about making the ABS a little more agressive? Even with it on and working, the rears come no where close to breaking traction while the fronts are. I'm running 275 kuhmo ecsta mx's (darn sticky) in the front.

I Just want to be able to brake as late as the porsch guys do

...ok, so my sights are set a little high...


Right now they gain about 2 car lengths on me into a turn, then I come flying out sideways on the outside to get the distance back. I can run the same overall time... but If I could brake better I would make up more time than if I added 100 more horses.

Your problem isn't with braking, it's weight up front and you can never get rid of it over the porsche guys since they are mid engined, and you are overhead cam front engine, weight distribution holds the key

 

[LaserRed01GT]

Ok, so how would I go about making the ABS a little more agressive? Even with it on and working, the rears come no where close to breaking traction while the fronts are. I'm running 275 kuhmo ecsta mx's (darn sticky) in the front.

I Just want to be able to brake as late as the porsch guys do

...ok, so my sights are set a little high...


Right now they gain about 2 car lengths on me into a turn, then I come flying out sideways on the outside to get the distance back. I can run the same overall time... but If I could brake better I would make up more time than if I added 100 more horses.

Wilwood makes ABS compatible proportioning valves. I've used their lever-style before on a ABS car and it allowed great front/rear braking bias adjustment. You can also use a residual pressure valve on the rears to help rear bias. Summit, Jegs, and Wilwood themselves sell them.

Wilwood also even makes a 14" rotor for our cars.

 

[Rickey_Bobby]

I took a look at the valves @ summit...

I'm assuming they get plummed in between the master cylinder and the ABS unit?
Would the drop in pressure going into the ABS unit cause any issues? (If I ever fix it)