130 amp to a 200 Amp alternator
- Thread starter 95-STANG-GT
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bill302
Active Member
MysteryMachine
Active Member
I changed to a 200 Amp and didn't change any wires and it works fine. If anybody would have issues it would be me with all the stuff i have in my car
I upgraded the wiring just for the stocker. I was dropping 400 mV at idle with the stock cable (looks like 6 AWG maybe). With the 4 AWG, I am dropping 5 mV. I attribute that mostly to resistance in the stock wiring (I could have replaced it with another 6 AWG cable and probably been ok). But with the added output, spend the 20 bucks or less on a new cable and fuse protection.
Chris used a nice lookin 1/0 (IIRC) cable from SUmmit - it was like 20 bucks.
Good luck.
Chris used a nice lookin 1/0 (IIRC) cable from SUmmit - it was like 20 bucks.
Good luck.
CManT1914
New Member
Although upgrading the wiring isn't neccessary, I'd recommend it. Summit has their own little alternator cable kits (150amp or 200amp) which comes with the wiring, fuse box, fuses, and terminals already crimped on for $20. WELL worth the money!!
That is a lot of power, and as Chris said, even though not needed, should be done. It doesnt take a lot to check the system, wires, connections and make sure everything is fine. I almost had a fire a few years back from not doing this right.
RC
RC
CManT1914
New Member
HISSIN50 said:
JT. the only reason I say the stock wiring is not ABSOLUTELY neccessary, is because of the guys I know with higher amp alternators and factory wiring. They have had no problems at all.
Then again, I kept frying my factory wiring with my FACTORY alternator, lol. I think it would depend heavily on the condition of the grounds too. You remember mine were not up to par, that no doubt was probably the cause of my problems.
nmcgrawj
Advanced Member
CManT1914
New Member
Nate, I bought the eBay special. $160 for a Ford OEM 200amp alternator. It works great so far, even with my u/d pulleys.
I hear ya Chris. 
A stockish SN95 should not be drawing over 130- 150 amps. But if someone actually ran the alternator closer to its capacity, the stock cable could start to smolder. Just like the fox folks who run a 3G off of the stock 8 AWG cable - as long as they dont turn on lots of stuff, they do OK. But as soon as they get all the accessories going, the alt can handle it but the wiring cant.
As gen info, if doing it right (like Chris did), one wants the cable to handle more power than the alternator can put out. And the fuse is rated for the weakest link, which normally equates to a fuse rated at or near the same amperage as the alternator.
If using a cable rated to handle less juice than the alt puts out, then the cable is the weak link and the fuse really should be chosen to accomodate the cable's load rating at its given displacement (length).
Just my two cents.
A stockish SN95 should not be drawing over 130- 150 amps. But if someone actually ran the alternator closer to its capacity, the stock cable could start to smolder. Just like the fox folks who run a 3G off of the stock 8 AWG cable - as long as they dont turn on lots of stuff, they do OK. But as soon as they get all the accessories going, the alt can handle it but the wiring cant.
As gen info, if doing it right (like Chris did), one wants the cable to handle more power than the alternator can put out. And the fuse is rated for the weakest link, which normally equates to a fuse rated at or near the same amperage as the alternator.
If using a cable rated to handle less juice than the alt puts out, then the cable is the weak link and the fuse really should be chosen to accomodate the cable's load rating at its given displacement (length).
Just my two cents.
MysteryMachine
Active Member
I got mine from ebay as well from a seller named jwdobbs. Heres a link to one of his auctions http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/200-...33573QQitemZ8028300893QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
Real nice guy, great to deal with. I emailed him a few times about questions and he got back to me real fast. Also had a problem with the alt I recieved and emailed him about that. Told him I would have it tested and let him know. The test said it was fine but was still having issues so I emailed him again he said to send it back. I sent it back he looked at it found a wire had come lose inside said it wasn't normal for that to happen but he fixed it up sent it right back to me and its worked great ever since. I highly recomend him if your looking for one
Real nice guy, great to deal with. I emailed him a few times about questions and he got back to me real fast. Also had a problem with the alt I recieved and emailed him about that. Told him I would have it tested and let him know. The test said it was fine but was still having issues so I emailed him again he said to send it back. I sent it back he looked at it found a wire had come lose inside said it wasn't normal for that to happen but he fixed it up sent it right back to me and its worked great ever since. I highly recomend him if your looking for one
mustangt562
Member
CManT1914
New Member
mustangt562 said:
SUM-890026-1
Unfortunately, I think they discontinued it. I can't find it anywhere on their website now.
badstang123
New Member
The cost and time you must invest to upgrade the wire is nothing compared to the repercussions if something went wrong. Plus, using stock wire on a 200 amp alternator is like taking a stroked and blown motor, then running it through an exhaust system off a Civic. If your going to do it, do it right. I did the exact same upgrade to my car. You don't need a kit, you can piece together all the right wiring, connections, and other stuff. If you could find it all together that would be helpful though.
xr8d302
I bought a 27" monitor to compensate for my lack o
Big stereo's and whatnot....I'm not sure if the issue with underdrive pullies ( power draw at idle ) could be solved by this means, but I've thought about trying it just for kicks...but I also run a big stereo system as well
CManT1914
New Member
Monsterbishi said:
Lots of guys run nice stereo systems like Aaron mentioned. Others use underdrive pulleys, which with the factory alternator a lot of times causes discharging at idle (especially at night if you have your headlights on and your stereo, a/c etc.). My 200amp alt. doesn't have any problems at idle even with the u/d's on.
badstang123
New Member
A larger alternator can sometimes make the power draw at idle even worse. The larger alternators can take some more revs before they make all that power. It depends on what pulleys you have as well as what larger amp alternator. I would not spend the money on a larger alternator to fix the problem though. It did not on mine so I chucked the pulley on the alternator, got a 1 3/4" one and bought a new belt to fit. This way I was able to leave all the other underdrive pulleys. I'm running two optima's and a lot of watts though.
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