$1500 Later, car is slower HELP!


New Member
Aug 9, 2005
i went to summit and bought a trick flow track heat intake, with plenioum spacer, 24 lb injectors, granatelli mass air for 24 lb injectors, and crane roller rockers.
i installed everthing, and now he car is really slow.
and idels spiraticly at startup, and i have ton rev it or it will die.

i had to take out the distributor, and i just puled it out, and lined it up.
i hear this ticking sound, like i did before i put in the rockers, but it may be louder now.

what should my timing be set at?
what do you think is wrong?
would having the distributor 1 tooth off, make me loose 100hp?

i tightened the roller rockers to 25 ft lbs, two at a time when they were compressed
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i just got done plaing with the distributor, and its NOT a timing issue.

would a vaccume leak make me feel liek im out of 100 hp?

how canu place rockers incorrectly?
i just put them on, and torqued them al to 25 ft lbs.

please help
hopefully you adjusted the rockers before you torqued them down,if you just put the rockers on and torqued them down without adjusting them,then there is your problem i would think.please correct me if i am wrong here.
This is directly from the FMS website. It should get you in the right direction. Essentially do one cylinder at a time, rotate to TDC for that cylinder (both valves will be completely closed and then set you valves (torque them)
The instruction guide is for aftermarket, but I think it is the same for stock. This assumes that you dont have adjustable rockers.

Step 1: Rotate engine to number 1 cylinder TDC. Check distributor rotor to make sure it is at the number 1 cylinder terminal. Remove valve covers.
Step 2: Remove old rocker arms for number 1 cylinder. If you are converting a pedestal type cylinder head, see the modifications instructions below.
Step 3: Oil the pushrod, rocker stud threads, rocker arm and nut.
Step 4: Install the new roller rocker arms for number 1 cylinder with the flat area on the trunnion shaft up.
Step 5: Make sure the rocker does not bottom on the rocker stud radius. Check clearance through the entire lift range. Check rocker arm geometry. You may need to change pushrod length to achieve proper geometry.
Step 6: Also check pushrod guideplate alignment. Some guideplates must be split to allow good pushrod alignment.
Step 7: Install the rocker arm nuts and set cold lash/lifter preload. Tighten the rocker arm lock screw.
Step 8: Rotate engine to the next cylinder in the firing order and repeat the process.
you are fine with the rockers as long as they are ped mount. you should still go back in there and shim the ones that are making noise.

as for the loss in power, i concur on the vacuum leak. have you sprayed it down? that is the first thing i would check.
when you torq'd down your lower intake, did you "walk" the manifold down? Everytime I've changed an intake I had to run through the torq sequence at least 3 times before all of the bolts were actually torq'd to spec.

Also, are you positive all the vacuum lines are in place? I've forgotten them once or twice in the past and realized it shortly after startup when the damn thing didn't want to idle

for the rockers, ck the preload as described in the aforementioned pdf file in thegabrielles last post, and shim as req'd

timing; like grn92lx said, set it to 14-16* btdc, and make sure your spout is out when you adjust your timing. (1. power off, disconnect spout 2. start, run, adjust timing to desired amount 3. power off, reconnect spout)
whitehorseupnorth said:
Get rid of the 24# injectors and put the stock MAF back in. Then check all Vac lines. I've heard nothing good about granatelli MAF's. You don't need 24#'s yet..
Agreed..fuel curve got fattened up by the larger injectors and droped the hp output...put in the 19's untill you have mods that require more flow.