1965 basic questions

[HVYMETALDRVR]

Please bear with me as I'll pretty new to the hobby, finally have money and time to mess around. This my first ever project car so I'm a bit of a noob, but my ears are open to learn.

I bought a 1965 hardtop (not fastback) last week, ran and drove okay, threw some brand new tires on it, but it looks like its gotten an oil leak, probably under the oil pan and it also appears the exhaust isn't attached correctly though I'm thinking of replacing it all together anyways. Almost no rust though, except for the hood, garaged it's whole life and mostly original everything. I'm looking forward to turning wrenches on it this week after I get a house project fixed.

Anyways, the car has the 289 trim on the side, but it's a straight 6 so obviously one of the two is incorrect. I haven't been able to get underneath it yet to see if the tranny matches, but I did get the number of the engine C5DE 6015-H. Does anyone have a website to decode that? The VIN decoder from this site says it was a built in 1965 in Dearborn, MI., and that the car was originally built with the I6200CID1V. I also talked the guys at the local part store and their database didn't show any of the 1965 models ever having a straight 6? However both the VIN, engine number, and owners manual that came with it, all indicate that this a 1965. Google searches aren't yielding much either. I'm just trying to confirm that I get the right parts. In my exuberance I forgot to ask if this was a numbers matching car, though I'm not looking to flip it anyways. If someone could point me in the right direction and shed some more light on this car I'd appreciate it!

Thanks in advance. You'll probably be hearing more from me, I"ll post some pics tomorrow!

 

[horse sence]

Look up mustang vin decoder ,type in all the info on the door tag ,if it is the correct door tag it will give yoy all the information

 

[scaraj]

For a more detailed report you could order a Marti Report for your car's specifics....

https://www.martiauto.com/martireports.cfm

But I'm pretty sure all 6 cyl cars in 1965 came with 4 lug wheels (rather than 5)

 

[raptor326]

Marti reports are good only from 1967 onward....1964 1/2 thru 1966 records were destroyed by Ford ..... no Marti Report for those years...I have 1965 fastback and any data I found was by my own detective work and restoration guides for VIN decoding

 

[HVYMETALDRVR]

Hey guys, thanks for the heads up on this. Using the VIN decoder and some other detective work I found what I needed. It is indeed a straight 6 I-200 numbers matching. Best way to sum this car up is that it is in good shape with mostly surface rust (except for the battery pan, and the area of the fender underneath which unfortunately is eaten through), 95% of the car is original so it's just a lot of replacing. My goal is to turn it into a daily safe driver and enjoy, I want to keep it as close to original as possible, but I'd like to put modern disc brakes in it, better carburetor, and possible A/C down the road.

Short story is this is my first project, I don't have a garage here in Ohio, so the car is sitting outside but covered for now. My goal is to get it running better and safer then I will drive it to my parents house on the east coast later this summer so it can be garaged (and protected from the elements) for the winter. My dad is recovering from some medical issues and I'm looking forward to working on this project with him this winter. In the meantime, there is only so much I can do laying on the ground in my driveway with the front end up on a rhino ramps. Couple things I'm digging into with it:

1. There was a radiator leak, I replaced the lower radiator hose, I plan on replacing the entire radiator in the garage this winter and put in a 5 bladed more efficient fan. Need to check it tomorrow to check for any more leaks.

2. There is/was at least one oil leak. I replaced the oil pressure sensor using thread tape and that area is now clean when it runs as it was dripping before. It looks like it might coming from the oil pan gasket, the bolt on the oil pan is also wet with oil after idling it for about 15-20 min. I'm not sure if this is dripping from the gasket or the pan bolt itself, but I will probably just replace the oil pan/engine bottom and put in a brand new gasket. I plan on going through and replacing as many gaskets as I can before driving it out. Are there any other common leak points at the bottom of the engine I may have missed?

3. The speedometer doesn't work at all. I'm assuming the speedometer hasn't been touched, with it being original. Been watching videos online about this problem, and I'll probably dive into this problem in the garage over the winter. Before I jump, in whats the most common culprit of this? The cable connects to the tranny where it should, so I'm thinking just a bad cable?

4. Noob question on question 2, there is a bar that connects to each side the frame and goes across and underneath the engine and oil pan. It doesn't connect to the engine itself but is there for support and looks like it's just structural as it makes two dog leg turns around the oil pan. Looks like there a 7/8" bolt holding it in place on either side. It has some surface rust on it and a dent. I need to pull it off to replace the oil pan anyways, so I'll probably just replace the bar also, but I don't know what this bar is called? I can't seem to find it on Rockauto.com.

5. Any recommendations for carburetors? After a lot of searching online it looks like the 1100 Autolite or 1100 Pony Vaporizer is what the car is made to take? This article says 1.2 inch diameter. http://www.mustangandfords.com/parts/mump-0910-how-to-identify-mustang-carburetors/

Although I want to keep the car as close to original as practical, I don't mind putting on a better carburetor for better fuel economy and fuel distribution to the cylinders etc. Though at $400, it seems a bit pricey.

6. Whenever I fuel the vehicle, there is a gas leak, which means it I think it's a seal in the gas line. I definitely to take care of that before I drive it out east. I'll probably just do the whole gas tank.

7. Lastly it needs a new paint job, but for now to prevent the rust from going any further I'm going to sand and clean off the surface rust and spray paint it til it makes it into the paint shop. I'll keep it the original color, Silver Blue Y code.

Thanks for reading, I plan on perusing these forums more as it will probably answer my questions in advance. There's more type but I'll hold off as this is plenty. I'm looking forward to getting my education. In case you were wondering, I'm a pilot and have some basic experience working knowledge of engines with working on the smaller planes I used to fly. Drive trains and transmissions are Greek to me though, airplanes don't have those. Here are a few pics, more to come.