1965 coupe Battery draining when sitting.
- Thread starter Rick1965Coupe
- Start date
I may need to get a new battery, but still thinking I should disconnect the clock? Thanks Rick.
WORTH
20+ Year Stangneter 
Mongo, you're still alive.
Rick, put a battery switch on it if you're not using it much. And if that doesn't cure it you know the battery is NG. And a battery switch is never a bad idea. Oh, did you check the water in the cells? Just a thought.
Rick, put a battery switch on it if you're not using it much. And if that doesn't cure it you know the battery is NG. And a battery switch is never a bad idea. Oh, did you check the water in the cells? Just a thought.Here is a method to find a short by an old hand at it- Woodchuck on VMF:
How to find a short
Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery and place a test light between the post (I like to hold the test light "probe" to the post with a hose clamp, and clip the alligator clip to the end of the battery ground cable. Make sure the doors are shut and the key is "off".
If you have a glowing test light you have a drain somewhere. Start by disconnecting the voltage regulator. If the light goes off you have either a shorted alternator brush or bad regulator. If the alternator warning lamp goes off the minute the engine starts it's probably NOT the alternator but the regulator.
If the test light stays on, reach inside and open the glovebox door, remove the glovebox light bulb and check the test light. If it goes out, replace the glovebox light switch.
Test light still on? Reach in the other side through the window with the door closed and pull up on the brake pedal. If the test light goes off, adjust or replace the brake light switch.
Those are the most common.
The next test would be to tape down the door courtesy light door jamb switch and, one by one, pull a fuse and see if it makes the light go out. If so, check the items on that particular circuit. If you STILL can't make the light go out, pull the plug on the ignition switch. Other than those, it's tracing the non-circuit-protected "hot" wires.
How to find a short
Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery and place a test light between the post (I like to hold the test light "probe" to the post with a hose clamp, and clip the alligator clip to the end of the battery ground cable. Make sure the doors are shut and the key is "off".
If you have a glowing test light you have a drain somewhere. Start by disconnecting the voltage regulator. If the light goes off you have either a shorted alternator brush or bad regulator. If the alternator warning lamp goes off the minute the engine starts it's probably NOT the alternator but the regulator.
If the test light stays on, reach inside and open the glovebox door, remove the glovebox light bulb and check the test light. If it goes out, replace the glovebox light switch.
Test light still on? Reach in the other side through the window with the door closed and pull up on the brake pedal. If the test light goes off, adjust or replace the brake light switch.
Those are the most common.
The next test would be to tape down the door courtesy light door jamb switch and, one by one, pull a fuse and see if it makes the light go out. If so, check the items on that particular circuit. If you STILL can't make the light go out, pull the plug on the ignition switch. Other than those, it's tracing the non-circuit-protected "hot" wires.
Sent you an email last week.Mongo, you're still alive.
Similar threads
