1966 C4 tranny not moving? Reverse ok.

the steel plates you mentioned are really cheap... dont waste your time trying to save them. also, if there is the least bit of warpage, it will make your engagement jerky. if the clutches are fried, also plan on replacing the torque converter, or at least get it rebuilt.
 
the steel plates you mentioned are really cheap... dont waste your time trying to save them. also, if there is the least bit of warpage, it will make your engagement jerky. if the clutches are fried, also plan on replacing the torque converter, or at least get it rebuilt.


Thanks, will do. I don't plan on opening the tranny again, so I want to use new, known good parts. Like the bands, they look OK, but since I'm already there, I should replace them anyway.

If the black goop I found in the piston bores was chewed up friction lining, then it must have gotten everywhere in the engine, including the TC.
Perfect opportunity to upgrade to a slightly higher stall speed TC, right? :)
Might be cost prohibitive right now, so I'll probably try to flush the TC out and reuse it, until I have saved up some money for the kind of TC I want.
The ATF that came out of the TC drain plug was clean, bright red. As opposed to the dark fluid that came from the transmission..

Jan
 
Had to take a week off work, and my tranny rebuild... mostly because my wife gave birth to a healthy baby boy on Tuesday this week!!!!


Born May 1st, 3 days before my birthday :)

Anyhoo, I learned that my parts were delivered to my work, and my boss signed them off. They're there waiting for me when I go back to work, probably Tuesday next week. I can finally start putting the tranny back together, assuming I got the correct parts!

I'm excited. And massively sleep deprived already, we got the baby home yesterday and I didn't sleep a bit last night. I'm running on Full Throttle :P

The C4 rebuild looks fairly simple, I don't know if I will take pictures or not, there's enough info online and in the repair manuals covering the whole deal so..

I'll let you know how it turns out.

Jan
 
ARGH!!


The parts I got did not fit!

They (Rockauto.com) sent me 5 friction discs when my tranny only uses 4.
No steel discs were included.
The reverse band was WAY too big in diameter.
Forward band looks like the only part I can use.


Now, WHERE CAN I FIND these parts?? I've called a few dealers, and called CJ Pony, with no luck.

Jan
 
Went to a tranny shop near where I work, and they gave me their parts suppliers contact information.

http://www.daccoatparts.com/

got a nice lady on the phone, who actually knew what she was talking about.

Their delivery truck will swing by my work tomorrow with supposedly correct parts, no extra cost.

Reverse band and complete clutch pack, $65

jan
 
I hate when I get the wrong parts, especially when its mail order. I've had a lot of good experience with rockauto. I wonder if it was just a mix up at the warehouse ? Anyways, get that thing up and running again when the parts get to you so you can start enjoying it again. Good luck.
 
I can't wait to get this thing going, it never ran during the 2 years my wife has had it. She rescued it from rotting away under a tree, windows open etc...

I got the engine running last summer, working on th ecar whenever I had time after work, on the driveway..

Now I have a shop to work in, and the boss lets me work on the cars a little during work hours :)


I called rockauto, and they said they only have this one part number available, and since it didn't fit, they can't help me. So now I'm wondering if it is worth my time to return the $40 worth of parts at my own cost for a refund. :)


Dacco parts just arrived. I got more than I asked/paid for:

5 thin, smooth friction discs (same that rockauto sent)
4 waffle pattern friction discs
4 thicker waffle pattern friction discs
8 steel plates

Sheesh, if I can't get these to work, shoot me! :D

They also sent a HD Kevlar reverse band.
The forward band is from rockauto and it looks identical to the one I had in the tranny, nothing special.

Jan
 
I'll just keep posting about my experiences with this tranny rebuild, in case someone else finds it useful some day....




It was nice to have different thickness friction discs to choose from, I mixed different thicknesses to achieve the proper free play in the stack. I decided to use 3 thick waffle textured discs, and one thin smooth disc. I tried to use all 4 thick discs, but I couldn't get the snap ring on at all. End play is now at the tight end of the acceptable scale, it should loosen up a little during break-in I guess, as the parts settle under load and operation.

I let the discs (and bands) soak in ATF for a good 20 minutes before assembly.

I hope I didn't mess up by mixing different types of discs. Oh well.

I started putting the darn thing back together today, but couldn't find my sealant anywhere. Ran out of time and had to leave. I should have the tranny back together by tomorrow night, if all goes well. I'll also finish degreasing the outside and paint it. (plain aluminum color). I had the case acid washed and rinsed with a pressure washer before taking it apart. Now my hands have left greasy pawmarks all over it.

Jan
 
Almost there.... just got the tranny back in the car, now I need to connect the shifter linkage and various hoses, lines, cables and wires. And fill it with oil. I did put a lot of oil in the torque converter prior to assembly.

Which reminds me, I suppose I need to put all the TC nuts on and tighten them down :)

I try not to rush it, but damn I can't wait to go oout on a test drive. I can only drive around on the parking lot, since the car isn't tagged or insured. Argh.

I hope I don't need to take the stupid thing down again.
Well, at least it looks pretty. I painted it with aluminum engine enamel and sprayed the steel parts with black rustoleum. Looks like new.

I don't mean to jinx myself, but I once polished an entire ribbed transmission case, sprayed on clearcoat, and...... broke the tranny within 2 weeks. That thing still looked darn pretty on top of a junk pile.


Funny how it turned out to be the mustang that gets fixed first, and not the wife's Nova ;)

Jan
 
Traditionally a reverse only situation is due to low pump pressure, which can usually be traced to hardened or leaking seals. It's always a good idea to hang a gauge and get pressures before disassembly.
 
Traditionally a reverse only situation is due to low pump pressure, which can usually be traced to hardened or leaking seals. It's always a good idea to hang a gauge and get pressures before disassembly.

I didn't check pressure, but I did deduct from a number of things that I do have enough pressure.

As it turned out, the previous owner had ruined the clutch pack somehow, it was totally wasted.


Everything is now ready for a test drive, all I need is two dang exhaust flange seals so I can bolt the exhaust pipes back on.... grrrr. On my way to go get 'um right now. And some more oil.

Jan
 
Well....


I got everything back together, and tranny in the car.. oil in the tranny...


...and the same problem is still there. Car won't move forward, but reverse grabs great and works flawlessly. No forward gears engage. The car slowly, almost unnoticeably creeps forward at idle, in any forward gear AND in neutral, on perfectly level ground. I suspect that's just oil between friction surfaces creating just enough drag.

There is no "clunk" sound when I shift into forward gears. The clunk is very noticeable in reverse.

I spent some time today trying to find a pressure test gauge or an adapter for my existing gauge, but no luck.

I took the valve body apart to see if there would be some foreign particles clogging it up, but I found nothing. The general Ford transmission overhaul manual mentions 9 check balls that are supposed to be in the valve body, I found NONE. Nor did I find a place where one would look at home. I guess this model doesn't use them.

Guess I will have to find that damn pressure gauge anyway. And if I don't get enough pressure, which is what is left to assume is wrong, the friggin thing has to come down again. Argh!!!!


So... low pressure: look at pump, and pump seals.
High pressure: look at clutch pack piston seals.

The hardest part in all of this is dropping the tranny, everything else is easy now that I've done it once, and all the parts are squeaky clean.

To make things easier for me, I have no more money to throw at this thing.
I'm getting a serious 'wife look' now, when I mention the Mustang at home. :(

Jan
 
Hey just want to make sure that you dont forget to clean out the trans cooler and lines. That can get clogged up after burning up a trans and you wont get any fluid. Hmm you should almost always replace the pump when rebuilding a trans its cheap insurance. Also I am not sure about c4s since I have never rebuilt them but 4r70ws and the the chrysler trans that I have rebuilt you can air check all the clutch packs and bands. Use 40psi not sure what you will need you can check the clutch packs outside of the car and also once its in the case... when doing it in the case it requires a special tool (plate that bolts where the valvebody normally goes)
 
I let the cooler drain on it's own.

I made sure the bands move ok with compressed air, but I don't know how to check the clutch pack.


Book says 1st gear doesn't use bands, only clutch pack is engaged. Since it never gets moving, it never tries to get into 2nd gear (forward band would engage).

So I believe the clutch pack is not getting enough pressure. Why, I have no friggin clue.

I'm losing my cool here.

Jan
 
Still have the same problem. No first gear, so I can't get the car to move forward in any way. First gear uses the forward clutch, no bands are used.

There's a cool air test video here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucTqlOHhCxM&


Now, when the dude on the video does the air test on the forward clutch, you can clearly hear a noise when the clutch pack piston moves.

When I do the test on mine, I hear a faint little sound like that, one time, then just a steady hissing sound of airflow from somewhere inside the tranny. Why would that be? My tranny is still in the car, right side up, as opposed to this guy's tranny that is upside down. I don't think it matters though.
I think it may be due to blown or dirty piston seals. I'm dropping the tranny again.

I took the valve body out again and tore it apart, and I did find some plunger thingies that didn't move freely. They do now. Haven't put it back on yet.

I also found that after the rebuild, while testing the tranny in car, I had forgotten to tighten one of the cooler lines down... it was REAL loose. It was the one closer to the bellhousing. No leaks though, which was weird. Had there been fluid running through the cooler lines under pressure, surely I should have had leaks...... argh. I'll take a closer look at the darn oil pump too.

Jan