1966 Mustang Coupe 200ci

Headlight Assembly question - 1966

Next up: Passenger side headlight bucket assembly. Is this going to be a bolt on affair, or is there some welding/cutting involved? I understand it won't line up right, but I can save that for when it's painted.




Dashpad is in. The spray paint does not hold well to the spots around the screws (dashpad being flexible). So I would not recommend that. I've used the Plasti-Dip on other things and it does not clean well. Lessons learned.



Put on new grease caps and acorn lugnuts (sorry about the crap phone camera).



New door latches. It was quite the pain getting in there. All of the rod retainers broke upon removal. So make sure to buy those when replacing the latch. There are 6 per door, but my new latch actually came with one already on it. So I have two spare retainers, which is a good thing.

The latches would not catch and close every time, and it already has a "repair panel" over the latch. The locks did not work either.



Closest rod on the right goes to key cylinder. The one behind goes to door handle (the one behind also required a different retainer). On the Passenger side, the key cylinder rod is stuck behind! the latch assembly. Not sure how.


Same two rods. The old key cylinder rod was held on by electrical tape here.


Rod going up goes to lock, the retainer was busted here on both doors. Rod at bottom goes to interior handle.


Rod at interior door handle (hard to get a picture here).


The old screws were too big for the new latch, but I still needed to use the old washers that went with the "repair panel," as the new ones were not wide enough.


I recently got back into working on my car, and will use this thread if I have any further questions.

Recent additions include: door latches, front wheel grease caps, 16 acorn lugnuts, dashpad, gauge cluster voltage regulator, turn signal switch, taillight wiring harness, taillight housings, license plate light assembly, rear package tray, and a rubber trunk mat

Upcoming: RH headlight bucket assembly

Planned: 2V Weber Carburetor, BFGoodrich Radial T/A 205/70/14 front + 225/70/14 rear tires

Resolved: rear seat captive washer screws, thanks 2+2GT

Thank you sir. It does rest on the two hooks, and now I can get the two screws.

The Catalog crashes every time I try to load it. How much are they? I would call now, but they're not open today.

dashpad

I got the old Dashpad off. I had to take the heater ducts out first. Was having some trouble with the clips holding them in. I ended up pushing them down and through, and managed to break the end of one.

There was a lot of foam still stuck to the metal dash. Scraped and cleaned it off.

Should I be putting some type of adhesive down before I put the new dash on? If so, what kind?

New dash, got it on the cheap from a show. Wrong color but easily remedied.


Mid-painting.


Old wrinkly, bent dash.


Old dash out.


Sticky stuff.

rear seat/trunk divider

Here is the rear seat/trunk divider I got. You can also see my new package tray and trunk mat in a few shots.

My gaping maw.


Shiny..


Test fit and then drilled all of the holes (16).


Painted black.


Installed.


From the trunk.

Next up: New dashpad is ready to go in. Decided to go ahead and take a look at the gauges before putting it back in. Only the Speedometer works currently. Looks like I might need a new voltage regulator on the back of the cluster.

Also just replaced my turn signal switch. I was having an odd problem where the left brake light would not work unless the right blinker was on. Everything else worked fine. It is working now that I replaced the switch.

Picked up the switch from CJ Pony Parts at the Charlotte Car Show 8/25. The horn wires are the wrong colors.

I cut the old wires off as close as possible to the old switch, taped the new wires to the old ones, then pulled the old and new down through the steering column.

Thanks Darrell. As far as painting.. I have to warn you I'm not going for a stock appearance. I used Rustoleum Specialty High Heat Flat Black paint. Time will tell if it holds up.
I'm also about to start experimenting with Plasti-Dip. We'll see how that goes.

I'm glad you said something 2+2GT, I was going to put the defrost vents in first.

Headlight Assembly question - 1966

lol. Thanks rebel65!

Next up: Passenger side headlight bucket assembly. Is this going to be a bolt on affair, or is there some welding/cutting involved? I understand it won't line up right, but I can save that for when it's painted.




Dashpad is in. The spray paint does not hold well to the spots around the screws (dashpad being flexible). So I would not recommend that. I've used the Plasti-Dip on other things and it does not clean well. Lessons learned.



Put on new grease caps and acorn lugnuts (sorry about the crap phone camera).



New door latches. It was quite the pain getting in there. All of the rod retainers broke upon removal. So make sure to buy those when replacing the latch. There are 6 per door, but my new latch actually came with one already on it. So I have two spare retainers, which is a good thing.

The latches would not catch and close every time, and it already has a "repair panel" over the latch. The locks did not work either.



Closest rod on the right goes to key cylinder. The one behind goes to door handle (the one behind also required a different retainer). On the Passenger side, the key cylinder rod is stuck behind! the latch assembly. Not sure how.


Same two rods. The old key cylinder rod was held on by electrical tape here.


Rod going up goes to lock, the retainer was busted here on both doors. Rod at bottom goes to interior handle.


Rod at interior door handle (hard to get a picture here).


The old screws were too big for the new latch, but I still needed to use the old washers that went with the "repair panel," as the new ones were not wide enough.

Hmm.. I've never done body repair like that before. Is it possible for a novice? My old ones don't line up well, and they're probably the original ones.

Also, I know my old one is broken here among other problems. This repair kit fixes the area. Should I get this and add it to my new bucket before installation?

I haven't started this so there's plenty of time to figure out if I'm capable.

Edit: Also, I know this involves removing the grille as well. Where the Bucket meets the area under the grille, is this welded or what?