Progress Thread 1966 Mustang Coupe: Ford 3.7L swap

I found a better setup for the remote oil filter...some re-working allowed me to put it where the alternator was stock...alternator was dropped due to shock tower interference.



I love test ports on fuel rails...so easy to turn them into a return line for custom EFI systems.





Didn't think this was going to be possible...but I took a step bit and carefully drilled the factory engine harness hole into a round shape for the Amphenol wiring bulkhead connector...just to reach a dead end in trying to insert the pins in the other half of the connector...now I have to go buy a Deutsche kit instead...aggravating....or at the very least some specialized Amphenol tools

Anyone else like to waste time making your own fuel and/or brake lines? I really did not care for the factory routing...and since I am going EFI I need both a feed and return line. I made it so feed is driver-side and return is passenger-side...I will never confuse them in this car(I have done that on other cars...nothing as aggravating as having to trace and color code a fuel line because you forgot whether its feed or return)

What we have here is...not a failure to communicate. At least marginal success in getting things talking to each other...though my CLT sensor is pretty obviously wired backward being stuck at 180 degrees(never assume that just because its a GM sensor yellow is signal)....not to mention I need to calibrate the TPS....using a TPS in this case from a Grand Caravan . No cranking attempt just yet, need to finish a few more items and track down some wiring issues to my relay box...oh, and put some oil in the engine.

02 281 GT said:

Which kit did you use? I'd probably like to do something like this once I get around to wiring my car.

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Well, I started with the Amphenol brand connector...but it turns out that that the female pins are very difficult to install with the junky little plastic insertion tool they give you....so I got tire of fooling with it and changed to a Deutsche connector instead:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=331895871078

This kit off of ebay in particular...the plastic isnt as nice as the metal...but you can actually buy metal Deutsch housings for marginally more, you just have to order from their website instead...and the insertion/removal tools are MUCH better than the Amphenol ones...you can buy some high quality Amphenol tools...but they cost just as much as the Deutsche connector kits....so at a certain point it you are chasing your own tail....I also just bought this one today:


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=331895851040

This one is for the heavier gauge wiring for the fuse/relay box, headlight wiring, horn wiring, etc etc...ended up with too many wires to pass through the stock connector.

Back to work on the headers today...so when I bought the collector trumpets, I bought ones that ended in 2.5" rather than the 2.25" I plan on the exhaust tubing being...I forget exactly why I did this(maybe because the 2.25" was out of stock?)...but I remember thinking I can always just cut it back to 2.25" later by cutting down the length, but today I decided I didn't want to cut down the length because the flange had a possibility of interference if I did...so I decided to reshape the end instead...I made some relief cuts to that effect.


I had bought this exhaust pipe reshaper tool earlier in an effort to flare the velocity stacks...it failed for that, but oddly, it worked for what is was meant for and I was easily able to re-flare the end to 2.25" to match the flange.



Definitely not my prettiest welds(blaming it on the fact its been so long since my last welding project) but the v-bands are on.





The funny thing here is that when I was making the primary bends I made sure to give myself as much room around the bolts as possible.....by the time the wrap was on there though...well, lets just say I was cursing in-accessible bolts the entire time...and under cylinders #1 and #4 I still was forced to use studs....which made the install even worse...it took me 4 hours to install these things...that is just ridiculous....oh my poor fiberglass infused fingers because I didn't have the common sense to wear gloves.

Time to move the car home for the finishing stages. Just snapped this picture because I thought the stance looked pretty mean(even if the body panels aren't lined up worth anything yet and the front is sitting about 2 inches lower than the final plan calls for)

Shake, rattle, and...squeak? Fired it up with open headers...timing needs work, as do a ton of other settings, but its the first real sign of life, using Megasquirt 3, no factory electronics. At this point the next step is to get it idling, then I can start tuning the thing.

Built some o2 pipes for the widebands this weekend. Good Lord, these are some ugly welds, but I comfort myself with the fact that the entire exhaust is a prototype until I find the setup I am happy with...then I go back re-do it all with my TIG and stainless...hence the v-band flanges for every section...it is going to be very much modular allowing me to change each section independently as I test....at least these will get me to the tuning stage though before I have to add cats, resonators, and mufflers. The nice thing about V-bands is it allows slight clocking adjustments of each individual section for better ground clearance.

Nothing like the screams of tortured metal in the morning! A start on fitting the SN95 aftermarket radiator/shroud/fan combo.

02 281 GT said:

That's a really good idea using the SN95 radiator. What are the dimensions?

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This is the one I used:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=333824348305

I can't say all of them are the same dimensions...but most likely they are. This one was 17 7/8" tall by the time I cut off the bottom mounting "studs" the actual core itself was 24 1/2" wide, overall length was 29-30"(about 1" of the end tanks width sit on a rubber pad on each frame rail with a bracket sandwiching it in so it can't move. If you have an AC condenser in front if it, you probably don't even need to notch it into the radiator support(or if you build a 1.25" duct out of something)



This is what I fabbed up for the upper brackets. The radiator is pretty tight up under there. I might have been able to gain just a bit more clearance if I cut away the lower mounting pad in addition to the mounting stud itself, but I think this will work fine.

Last week I painted the dash(and promptly scratch it up) and installed the Marshall gauges(as well as my wideband gauge in a temporary under-dash panel I made)...wired it up so I could flip a toggle to choose between the white and amber lighting at will(late night when tired will always be amber I am sure). The push-buttons on the gauge cluster are for peak warning/recall functions...menu access buttons. The gauges are fairly high tech with full sweep stepper motors, LED lighting and the peak recall/warning functions...as well as optional outputs that will allow me to output the warnings to external lights or dataloggers. I do still need to add a LED PWM dimmer, but that is a project for another time.