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1967 Mustang Starter - Electrical Issue

  • Thread starter Thread starter wubba
  • Start date Start date Dec 8, 2012
W

wubba

New Member
Dec 3, 2012
8
0
1
Dec 8, 2012
#1
  • Dec 8, 2012
  • #1
I had to order an ignition for my 67 as it didn't come with one.

So I wanted to test the starter - by directly bypassing the solenoid.

I first tested that I had a decent ground to the block from the batter terminal.

When I jump the 12v from the battery terminal directly to the bolt on the starter I get a terrible spark - if I hold it the stater spins up - but I litterly have to pull the cable off of the terminal as it seems like its fusing itself to the terminal. Something is just not right.

Any ideas why it would do this?
 

horseballz

10 Year Member
Sep 30, 2009
824
19
49
Las Vegas, NV
Dec 8, 2012
#2
  • Dec 8, 2012
  • #2
Your results are not surprising and your statement that "Something is just not right." is absolutely correct in that your testing procedure is not the best. That starter draws a LOT of amperage which is why the system uses a starter solenoid/RELAY to handle the load. The best, easiest and safer way to do your test is to use the solenoid like this:
A>Make sure solenoid is mounted solidly to the inner fender with the bracket on the top. The bracket must see a good ground.
B>Solidly connect a battery cable from the -negative battery terminal to the engine block (or starter housing, if you're trying to just test the starter uninstalled)
C>Connect the heavy cable intended to go from the large terminal on the right side of the solenoid to the starter's only wire terminal.
D>Connect a battery cable from the +positive side of the battery to the large terminal on the left side of the solenoid.
E>Use a screwdriver to jumper from the large left terminal to the small left terminal, thus energizing the low current coil in the solenoid/relay that activates (connects) the high current part, effectively making the two large wires into one. When you remove the screwdriver, a large/heavy spring in the solenoid deactivates the high current portion. Some minor sparking is to be expected when connecting and disconnecting the screwdriver. There is actually a momentary push button switch with two clips & wires on it made to serve the same function as the screwdriver.
HTH,
gene
 

PoppyMod

Member
Jun 27, 2010
617
6
19
Severna Park, MD
Dec 9, 2012
#3
  • Dec 9, 2012
  • #3
Hi,
I had to laugh a little at the comment "Something is just not right.", as I venture to say anyone of us has "been there done that". After learning more about the starter circuitry and relays, I use a remote switch for cranking the engine over. As was mentioned, its a simple momentary contact button style switch withe two leads. The red to the POS bat. terminal on the solenoid, the black to the "S" post (left front side closeist to the Pos terminal). This is a much more sane way of energizing the cranking system. The other is just too Neanderthal..... and don't ever ground a 220V AC line with a screwdriver, as well!
Happy Motoring today.....
 

horseballz

10 Year Member
Sep 30, 2009
824
19
49
Las Vegas, NV
Dec 9, 2012
#4
  • Dec 9, 2012
  • #4
PoppyMod said:

The other is just too Neanderthal.....
Click to expand...
Hey, I resemble that remark! I might even say that I'm sometimes proud of it. I have been known to frequent "The Jalopy Journal" and anyone who has also been there, understands when I say that one of my greatest aspirations is to be a "CAVE MAN!"
UGH!!!,
Gene
 

PoppyMod

Member
Jun 27, 2010
617
6
19
Severna Park, MD
Dec 10, 2012
#5
  • Dec 10, 2012
  • #5
Hey Gene, I'm not dis-included from that "resemblance" either! I've been known to bridge the Pos & Grd on those solenoids using plier handles. Things got hot fast, don't you know. LOL!
Ken
 
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