Oh I would, if I could. I have 0% of tools and live in an apartment complex.You could do it yourself
It might be flooded real bad from no spark previously?
Floor the foot feed and try it again
Fuel pump or TFI module
Check fuel pressure
Check blinking light on negative side of the coil while it cranks over
Noid light on injector (look it up if needed) just a light to blink showing the processor is trying to fire the injector
So, I finally was able to have someone else come out and check it out. It was able to run on starting fluid, and since the fuel filter had already been replaced it's the fuel pump. The car had sat for atleast 25+ years, so whatever junk in the tank has clogged the fuel pump.Did your mechanic do the checklist?
Didn’t you say you had fuel spraying at the rail?So, I finally was able to have someone else come out and check it out. It was able to run on starting fluid, and since the fuel filter had already been replaced it's the fuel pump. The car had sat for atleast 25+ years, so whatever junk in the tank has clogged the fuel pump.
With that being said the only way to replace the fuel pump is to drop the fuel tank correct?
Didn’t you say you had fuel spraying at the rail?
That's not the entire case, It has been my daily driver for the last 2 years but due to it sitting for 25+ years the sediment/gunk finally clogged the fuel pump (Which I kind of expected, and figured it might be the cause to why it's not starting). Also I'm either gonna have the fuel tank cleaned out or replaced while the fuel pump is being replaced.Another twenty five year old gas situation. Read up on it here so you get the gas out. Then you should get it right
Yes it needs to be dropped its not hard, can do it in 2 hours with hand tools if need be. if it sat that long buy new pump, tank and a can of kooler clean, new tanks like $100 if you shop around, pump depends on what ya want but even a 340lph is less then a bill these days. Your going to need air to blow out the fuel lines and rails, the tanks going to be junk from the old fuel pulling water and rotting if it really sat that long, it will just kill a new pump if its got rot inside. kooler clean is meant to flush transmission lines but will work for the fuel line too, disconnect it at the rail and the filter run a can threw it at rail side and the lines from the filter to the tank then blow it out with air from the rail side.. After that put it back together.So, I finally was able to have someone else come out and check it out. It was able to run on starting fluid, and since the fuel filter had already been replaced it's the fuel pump. The car had sat for atleast 25+ years, so whatever junk in the tank has clogged the fuel pump.
With that being said the only way to replace the fuel pump is to drop the fuel tank correct?
Yes it needs to be dropped its not hard, can do it in 2 hours with hand tools if need be. if it sat that long buy new pump, tank and a can of kooler clean, new tanks like $100 if you shop around, pump depends on what ya want but even a 340lph is less then a bill these days. Your going to need air to blow out the fuel lines and rails, the tanks going to be junk from the old fuel pulling water and rotting if it really sat that long, it will just kill a new pump if its got rot inside. kooler clean is meant to flush transmission lines but will work for the fuel line too, disconnect it at the rail and the filter run a can threw it at rail side and the lines from the filter to the tank then blow it out with air from the rail side.. After that put it back together.
Yep, already did! If I have any problems down the line I know where to take it! This guy had four other Foxbody Mustang's in his garage he was working on, I knew at that point it was the right place to get the work done!Yeah, definitely lose the number of those "mechanics". Sorry you had to endure that.
Yep, but somehow it still got other components or they did something to burn other things up? Probably to try to get me to pay them more. It probably destroyed their battery more so than mine, from what I've heard if that's how that works.All it will burn is a fuse link or two if you jump it backwards
The processor will survive that
What did you do about the fried ECU
Oh I appreciate it, and that's a great list that like you said works! Unfortunately, it probably would have worked for me at the start when I had the problem but one of those whack mobile mechanics jumper cabled the car backwards and whatever else to fry some of the electronics. I ended up just taking it to a certified mechanic that works on these years of Mustangs and he fixed it all up, runs like a champ now. So the problem is solved and fixed now. Not sure if there is a way to mark this forum/post as solved to let others know it's been fixed/solved? I appreciate it though!I'm the guy who wrote the checklist, and I have been driving and fixing pushrod 5.0 EFI Mustangs since 1991.
Do the checklist, you don't have to be a mechanic to understand it and make it work for you.
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