Build Thread 1990 Lx 5.0 Restomod Build

I think tca and xracer have good points. Newer cars don't have the standard single or double din that cars did 10-15 years ago. Everything's more integrated and it's harder to swap out. Combined with the fact that a lot of factory systems are pretty good these days, and most people are satisfied. I know our Pilot has a decent system with a factory 8" sub in the side panel of the cargo area...it sounds great!

xracer - I wish I had the junkyard hook up like you do. Seems like I'm always looking for some obscure stock OEM part that's hard to find.

David - Good question. I keep a detailed spreadsheet of all the parts I buy. Stuff like small nuts and bolts are usually omitted, but I capture the majority of the stuff. It's amazing how quick it all adds up, and kind of depressing at the same time to go back and look and see how much money you actually spent. Below is my list of everything I've purchased for the "interior" portion of my restoration/re-build. I have similar lists for exterior, drivetrain, suspension, enging, etc.

Leather Shift Boot $34.99
Armrest delete cover $24.99
Clips for attaching shift boot surround to console $3.99
Ashtray Repair Kit $14.99
Radio Mounting Sleeve, Trim Ring $15.45
New insrtument panel metal retainer clips (Ford Part #N804741-S2 or N804741-S32B) $0.00
Brake and Clutch Pedal Covers $16.49
Masterseries Mastercoat Permanent Rust Sealer $28.57
Driver's seat repair, new console top, seatbelt trim pieces and new driver's seat track $200.00
Weatherstripping kit (door to body, hatch, window run channel liner, outer door belt molding, gas filler pipe trunk floor seal $180.48
Paint and adhesion promoter for interior trim and panels $34.06
New heater core $30.73
Door lock actuator mount bracket $5.10
New door lock actuators + materials for install $33.15
Armrest pads, door handle bezels, lock knobs, mirror covers, armrest chrome strips, door switch $142.94

Total = $765.93

CobraWannabe said:

Let's say I want to use this technique to change the color of an interior piece because it's easier and cheaper to find quarter panels for a notch that aren't black than one's that are. How do you think the color would hold up? If it gets scratched or scuffed will it hold up?

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It will work, I'm confident in that. Probably need more coats, but it will cover and look great. That being said, remember that it's still a painted piece. Scratch or gouge it deep enough and that original color my show through. I think you have to exercise a bit more caution around any painted interior plastic piece, regardless if you did a color change or not.

The console in my car used to be red. I painted over it and you can't ever tell.

So I've had a good time making this thread, tracking and reviewing my progress and generating the feedback. I'm going to keep it going and just turn this into a build thread as I've got quite a bit left to do.

Water Pump Replacment
When I came out of the gym last Thursday I noticed a large puddle in the front of my car. A quick swipe of the finger and the sniff test and it was antifreeze. Looked under the car, didn't see anything, so I drove it home. The next morning there was a small puddle, so I started the car and crawled underneath to see what was up. I saw the slow drip, drip, drip from the weep hole of the water pump.

I opted for a stock replacement from Autozone for $33 with a lifetime warranty. Advanced was having a sale on coolant, so even better. I figured while I was at it I might as well replace the thermostat too. I picked up gaskets for the water pump and thermostat as well. $47 total.

Note that this is how I did my replacement. There may be things you want to do different or things that may be different on your car depending on what accessories/features you have installed. This is a guideline.

First is to drain the coolant from the radiator via the petcock at the bottom passenger side


Next, remove the serpentine belt and then bracket from the front of the water pump and around the A/C compressor. There were two more bolts holding the A/C compressor on so I didn't have to worry about that, and the P/S pump was able to stay also, just rotated a bit.




I removed the tensioner as well



Next remove the upper and lower radiator hoses. The upper hose doesn't need to be removed if you're not replacing the thermostat.



I didn't take any pictures of replacing the thermostat. It's pretty straighforward. There are two bolts that take a 1/2" socket. The lower bolt requires a 1/2" open box end wrench or swivel socket because the timing cover/water pump is in the way. After these bolts are removed the water outlet will be able to be removed. When I removed mine I found out there was no thermostat there. Another point for the previous owner.

Remove the old thermostat, noting which way it goes. Spring goes towards the windshield. If the thermostat has a bleed valve make sure it's at the top when you re-install it. Install the thermostat against the water outlet housing, then install the gasket, then install the entire assembly back onto the block taking care not to move the thermostat. Many use an adhesive gasket, which would be great. I used a couple small dabs of RTV to hole the thermostat in place. Tighten bolts to 12-18 ft-lbs. I did 15 ft-lbs.

Thermostat done.

There were 7 bolts to remove in order to remove the water pump. These have a very low torque rating for installation, so if they don't feel like they're coming out easy don't turn your ratchet harder. You may snap the bolt and be in for more of a treat. These bolts are notorius for breaking, especially the ones that straddle the water jacket.

The two bolts on the passenger side of the water pump (not studs, but bolts) were the ones that gave me problems. They straddle the water jacket and didn't come out easy. I went a bought a MAPP gas kit from Lowe's ($45, yes ouch) and used it as follows:

1. Heat block right next to where the bolt fastens into the block. It will be behind the timing cover. I would heat it for 30-45 seconds
2. Immediately after stopping heat, spray some penetrating lube. I use PB Blaster.
3. Wait about 30 seconds, then slowly turn the bolt as if you're tightening it.
4. Switch directions on the ratchet and try to loosen the bolt. Don't force it too much!
5. Apply heat again, and repeat.

I worked on 1 bolt at a time. It took me about 6-7 iterations of the above procedure to get the bolts loose. Once I got them out they were corroded and pitted pretty bad. BUT, they didn't break and I was beyond relieved. I decided to replace these bolts. All the bolts/studs are 5/16" - 18, and vary in length. These were 4" in length. I bought new SS bolts.



As you take the bolts out, put them in the back of a cardboard box so you know which bolt goes where with 12 o'clock marked at the top. This will be helpful later.



Next, clean up the surface of the timing cover to remove the old gasket material, corrosion, etc. Use a razor blade scraper or gasket scraper. I used a final wipe down of acetone when I was all done.



I had a decent amount of gunk on the front frame rail. It was as if something had rusted (surface rust only) up by the battery tray and then dripped down. If the bottom of the car would get wet (rain, sprinklers, etc) this crap would drip off and stain the driveway. I took a wire brush, cleaned it with degreaser, then primed it with 2 coats of automotive primer and then did 2 final coats with white paint. Looks 10x better than before, and hopefully will stop it from happening any more.

Time for final assembly.

Swap over the pulley from the old water pump to the new one. The torque specs on these bolts isn't too tight either. I did 18 ft-lbs. I have an electric fan, so those with the OEM clutch style fan would have a bit of a different arrangement.

Many people say the threads in the block need to be cleaned out well, and I agree with this. Unfortunately, my timing cover was still on and I didn't have a good way to do this. The worst spots on mine was where the corroded bolts were on the passenger side. I would thread the new bolt in until it was tight by hand, then back it out. Lots of gunk came out. Wipe it off with a rag, use a wire brush to gently clean the threads, then do it again. I did this 3 or 4 times, then for the 5th through 7th or 8th time I would use a wrench to thread the bolt in a few more turns. Finally, I could thread the bolt in and out while minimizing the amount of gunk that came out with it.

Put a bead of RTV on the side of the gasket which faces the timing cover. Install the gasket against the timing cover making sure to line up the bolt holes. Next, put a bead of RTV on the mating surfaces of the gasket that the water pump will contact. Finally, install the water pump. Have a couple bolts handy to thread in and hold the pump in place.

I used a little bit of anti-sieze on the threads of the bolts. I read some people saying not to do this on the bolts which surrounded the water jackets but no one ever said why. I used anti-sieze on all of the bolts, just a little bit. Install all bolts finger tight, then get out your torque wrench. The torque specs are 12-18 ft-lbs. I chose 15 ft-lbs, right in the middle. Tighten each bolt in 1/4 turn increments and tighten in a criss cross pattern.



Re-install upper and lower radiator hoses, hose into thermostat housing and hose into heater tube assembly (if applicable). Re-install the bracket the goes over the water pump and around the A/C compressor. Re-install the serpentine belt.

Once you've ensured everything is buttoned up, put about a gallon or so of antifreeze in the radiator. Start the car and watch the temp gauge. Mine rose a lot faster than before now that I had a thermostat. Eventually it will open up and you'll be able to see anti-freeze flowing from the top of the radiator. Continue to slowly fill with antifreeze until radiator is full. I let the car idle for about 15-20 minutes just to make sure all of the air bubbles were out and the thermostat opened and closed a few times.

Re-install radiator cap and keep an eye on that temp gauge for a day or so (I'm paranoid).

Noobz posted the following information:

Noobz347 said:

*All bolts are 5/16"-18

Water pump:
4 bolts - 3 1/4"
2 bolts - 4 1/4"
2 bolts - 1 1/4"
1 bolt - 2 1/4"

Additional timing cover bolts:
2 bolts - 2 1/4"
2 bolts - 2 1/2"

These are measure from underneath the head to the end of the bolt and NOT from the top of the head. Just the shank.

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For some reason I only had 7 bolts to remove for the water pump instead of the 9 listed above. I've done my best to re-create the lengths of the bolts and how I believe they were, but I'm not 100% sure. The important part is to take something that you can stick the bolts in as you take them out (cardboard box, sheet of sytrofoam), then trace the rough outline of the water pump on it, mark 12 o'clock and stick the bolts in where they go. Again, use these lengths as a guide.

Knock yourself out. I thought about creating a how-to for water pump replacement using the above information.

I didn't see one in the tech/how-to sticky at the top, so if you think that would be helpful I can write one up.