1993 Cobra cranks but No start

idareu

20+ Year Stangneter :roc</strong><span class=
Jan 6, 2004
86
79
29
Apopka, FL
Ok, I've followed the crank and no start check list and I'm down to # 1(G) I've got 12volts on the red/green at the ignition switch in the run position which is bad according to the list.

I've check the 20 gauge fuse link under the starter solenoid and it's a dead short and now I'm looking for the 20 gauge fuse link that is supposed to be between the ignition switch and the clutch safety switch. I can't find the frigging thing. Any tips on where it's hiding at? :shrug:
 
You should have 12 volts on the red/green wire anytime the ignition switch is in the Run position... its when you have no 12 volts at the ignition switch that you have a problem.

1.G) Ignition switch - look for 12 volts at the ignition coil red/lt green wire. No 12 volts, blown fuse link or faulty ignition switch. Remove the plastic from around the ignition switch and look for 12 volts on the red/green wire with the switch in the Run position. No 12 volts and the ignition switch is faulty. If 12 volts is present in the Run position at the ignition switch but not at the coil, then the fuse or fuse link is blown.
Note: fuses or fuse links blow for a reason. Don’t replace either a fuse or fuse link with one with a larger rating than stock. Doing so invites an electrical fire.
Ignition fuse links may be replaced with an inline fuse holder and 5 amp fuse for troubleshooting purposes.
94-95 models only: Check inside fuse panel for fuse #18 blown – 20 amp fuse

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds
IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 86-95 5.0 Mustang wiring Mustang FAQ - Engine Information Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 5.0 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 91-93 5.0 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/91-93_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 94-95 5.0 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/94-95_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif

TFI module differences & pinout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif

Fuse box layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif
 
Thanks for the clarification.

Ok, now that makes sense. The original list said "If 12 volts is present in the Run position, then the fuse or fuse link is blown." which is what confused me (not a hard feat to do).

I've got 12 volts at both the ignition switch and at the coil when it's in the run position. I guess I'm going to have to make a run to the parts store and buy a noid light because I've checked out everything from on the list from A-J with the exception of the PIP sensor. Thanks for your help. :nice:
 
It's Alive!!!

Just wanted to thank jrichker for his checklist and help :hail2: .

Noid light confirmed injectors weren't firing (with a good 12 volts at the wires) which lead me to the pip sensor in the distributor. Slapped in a new dizzy and life is good again.