Hello everybody, this is my first post on stangnet. I’ve done my best to figure out what’s going on with my car by searching every forum I can find on flooding, but can’t seem to find anybody with the same issue. So here it is:
My 1993 Cobra runs a little rich and drives its best when cold or during winter. If I drive my car for let’s say 10 minutes after it’s been warmed up, it starts to flood at idle (or at least that’s what I think it does). It’s always when I’m stuck at a red light for a minute or two, or in stop and go traffic. The idle drops from about 950 to 550/600 and the car reeks of gas when it does. It sounds like it wants to die, but doesn’t. It becomes very easy to stall. But if I rev the engine high enough for a moment, or do a decent burn out, it burns off the gas and goes back to idling and driving normally. Also if I stall the car while in this state, it wont start unless I disconnect the fuel relay, try to start it (burn off what gas is left in the cylinders), and then plug it back in. Then it’s good to go.
What does this mean? Is it in the tune? My car will not idle for long before it starts to flood seemingly. Hot weather makes it worse I think. I’ve checked for all vacuum leaks, clean MAF, new IAC, etc. and can’t figure out the problem. My dad is the best mechanic I’ve ever met in my life. He’s the one who figured out the fuel relay trick. He too is curious as to what’s causing this.
What I can say is this car was tuned with the stock Cobra intake along with long tube headers. Right now I have a Holly Systemax II upper and lower intake, and unequal length BBK Shorty’s. Those are the only changes since it was tuned. Any idea what might be causing this? I keep thinking it’s in the tune.. Here’s most of the mods that my car has:
Ford 306 ci / 5.0L Crate Motor
FRRP Engine Block
GT40X Aluminum Heads M-6049-X306
B303 Camshaft
1.6 Roller Rockers
Holley SysteMax II Upper & Lower (72mm)
BBK Cold Air Induction
75mm Mass Air Flow Meter
75mm Throttle Body
Forged Mahl Aluminum Pistons (9:1:1)
Forged Steel Connecting rods
Forged Steel Crankshaft
Aluminum Flywheel
McLeod Super Street Pro Clutch
Tremec 3550 Transmission
Pro 5.0 Short Throw Shifter
Moser Aluminum Driveshaft
4:10 Gear
MSD 6AL Ignition
Cobra ECU (EEC-IV) Rebuilt & Updated
24 lb Injectors (Adjustable)
3 Core Aluminum Radiator/Electric Fan
Original Radiator
Rear Battery Conversion
Underdrive Pulleys (smog bypass)
SCT Chip with Tune
Exhaust:
BBK Shorty Headers / 2.5" Collectors
BBK Off-Road H-pipe / 2.5"
Flowmaster 40 Series / 3" In & Out
Turndown Pipes / 3"
Brakes:
Baer 13" Front Disc Brake Setup
11" Rear Disc Brakes from 1997 F-Body / Corvette
Suspension:
Steeda Anti-Roll Bars (Front & Rear)
Steeda Ball Joints
Steeda Lowering Springs (Front & Rear)
Baer Outter Tire Rods
Welded Subframe Connectors
Moser Axles
FRRP Control Arms (Front)
BBK Upper & Lower Control Arms (Rear)
BBK End-Links
Ford 8.8"
Wheels:
1995 Cobra R 17 × 9
5 Lug Conversion
Cooper RS3-A Tires:
Front 255/40/17×9 94W
Rear 275/40/17×9 98W
My 1993 Cobra runs a little rich and drives its best when cold or during winter. If I drive my car for let’s say 10 minutes after it’s been warmed up, it starts to flood at idle (or at least that’s what I think it does). It’s always when I’m stuck at a red light for a minute or two, or in stop and go traffic. The idle drops from about 950 to 550/600 and the car reeks of gas when it does. It sounds like it wants to die, but doesn’t. It becomes very easy to stall. But if I rev the engine high enough for a moment, or do a decent burn out, it burns off the gas and goes back to idling and driving normally. Also if I stall the car while in this state, it wont start unless I disconnect the fuel relay, try to start it (burn off what gas is left in the cylinders), and then plug it back in. Then it’s good to go.
What does this mean? Is it in the tune? My car will not idle for long before it starts to flood seemingly. Hot weather makes it worse I think. I’ve checked for all vacuum leaks, clean MAF, new IAC, etc. and can’t figure out the problem. My dad is the best mechanic I’ve ever met in my life. He’s the one who figured out the fuel relay trick. He too is curious as to what’s causing this.
What I can say is this car was tuned with the stock Cobra intake along with long tube headers. Right now I have a Holly Systemax II upper and lower intake, and unequal length BBK Shorty’s. Those are the only changes since it was tuned. Any idea what might be causing this? I keep thinking it’s in the tune.. Here’s most of the mods that my car has:
Ford 306 ci / 5.0L Crate Motor
FRRP Engine Block
GT40X Aluminum Heads M-6049-X306
B303 Camshaft
1.6 Roller Rockers
Holley SysteMax II Upper & Lower (72mm)
BBK Cold Air Induction
75mm Mass Air Flow Meter
75mm Throttle Body
Forged Mahl Aluminum Pistons (9:1:1)
Forged Steel Connecting rods
Forged Steel Crankshaft
Aluminum Flywheel
McLeod Super Street Pro Clutch
Tremec 3550 Transmission
Pro 5.0 Short Throw Shifter
Moser Aluminum Driveshaft
4:10 Gear
MSD 6AL Ignition
Cobra ECU (EEC-IV) Rebuilt & Updated
24 lb Injectors (Adjustable)
3 Core Aluminum Radiator/Electric Fan
Original Radiator
Rear Battery Conversion
Underdrive Pulleys (smog bypass)
SCT Chip with Tune
Exhaust:
BBK Shorty Headers / 2.5" Collectors
BBK Off-Road H-pipe / 2.5"
Flowmaster 40 Series / 3" In & Out
Turndown Pipes / 3"
Brakes:
Baer 13" Front Disc Brake Setup
11" Rear Disc Brakes from 1997 F-Body / Corvette
Suspension:
Steeda Anti-Roll Bars (Front & Rear)
Steeda Ball Joints
Steeda Lowering Springs (Front & Rear)
Baer Outter Tire Rods
Welded Subframe Connectors
Moser Axles
FRRP Control Arms (Front)
BBK Upper & Lower Control Arms (Rear)
BBK End-Links
Ford 8.8"
Wheels:
1995 Cobra R 17 × 9
5 Lug Conversion
Cooper RS3-A Tires:
Front 255/40/17×9 94W
Rear 275/40/17×9 98W