1993 Mustang 4cyl Ideas

[concorde01]

i am thinking of building up a motor for my 93 lx. it is a 2.3 auto. here is my thoughts

1999+ranger 2.5
1996 ranger 2.3 header
my 1993 mustang dual plug head.
ported 1993 2.3 intake.
cold air intake.
full 2.5 inch exhaust.
hi-flow spun cat.
turbo muffler
performance coils/wires/plugs

what do you guys thing? can it be done?

 

[concorde01]

i also am having a suspension prob. i think. when i hit a bump whil turning the tail end hops sideways. i know i have bump steer probs up front but what can cause the rear to jump around. also it dose the same on freeway so i try not to go over 55

 

[Noobz347]

Old/destroyed control arm bushings.

 

[concorde01]

but its the rear moving front feels fairly tight. im gonna get a bump steer kit thought

 

[Noobz347]

If it's your REAR that is moving side to side then it's the rear that you need to look at.

What control arms and bushings are you running? How old are they?

 

[concorde01]

all stock far as i know. just bought it. it does have a set of wide 17s on it running 225/50 rear and 225/45 front. i get a clunk from front when i turn but i know that is a different problem

 

[concorde01]

car has 92k

 

[Noobz347]

Yeah, you need to get a look at the rear end: Control arms, bushings, and torque boxes.

The circles are all the bushing locations.

The two small actuators furthest outward are the quad shocks (4 outermost circles). Those don't locate your axle laterally but they may still be worn and can cause other issues.

All the rest are what locate your axle beneath the car. If the bushings are original equipment then they are more than likely shot to hell. Inspect them or have them inspected.

If they're all toast, it's probably time for some new control arms.

I just saw that this is a 2.3? I'm sure that your torque boxes are fine.

 

[concorde01]

i was planing a full poly kit for it new koni shocks and new quads also. but were could i get new quads for good price? building it up so its ready for more power later. better to do it all now

 

[Noobz347]

You're wasting your time with putting a poly kit with stock Fox control arms. If you're going to replace bushings, replace them with OEM style rubber and leave them alone. Those crazy engineers are a tad bit smarter than we think sometimes. hehe

Now if you're going to replace control arms then that changes things a bit. The stock control arms are relatively flexible. The lower control arms are long and flexible. If you're going to replace a part, this is the one that you want to begin with. Selecting the right set of control arms can eliminate the need for the quad shocks at all. What determines the control arm setup you need is what you want the car to do, and how much power you are planning to make.

If you are planning to rebuild and keep the 4 cylinder, then I would replace all of the rubber bushings in the stock control arms and press on with pride.

 

[concorde01]

turbo later. 250-300hp max. tubular front control arms. same for the rear. also a 5lug swap and larger disk on all 4. i have alot of corners were i live and several long straight roads with no limit

 

[concorde01]

i am also goning to make sub-frame connectors. with a cage that will attach to the sub connectors

 

[concorde01]

or if not turbo then a friend i work with races several cars. and said he may be able to get me a build up mini stock 2.3.

speaking of 2.3 what is the rpm range? ive hit 6k no prob and it was still gaining power. its gut less till i hit 3k

 

[Noobz347]

turbo later. 250-300hp max. tubular front control arms. same for the rear. also a 5lug swap and larger disk on all 4. i have alot of corners were i live and several long straight roads with no limit

I couldn't tell you if that HP number on that motor with a turbo was feasible or not. I'll let the turbo dudes do all of that.

For your suspension, I think a 5 lug would be great! Better brakes all around and better wheel choices.

If you're serious about wanting corners you'll need a lot more than just poly bushings.

Take a look at Griggs, Maximum Motorsports, Steeda, and UPR. They all have their various methods and claims to fame. For the kinds of things that you've mentioned above, I would look at Maximum Motorsports and Griggs.

You can spend a ton of money or come up with something for less that performs well. It has a lot to do with what your priorities are.

I don't think I'd spend a dime on any of it until I had my 5-lug conversion all put together. That can change plans too when you're talking about suspension.

One other note... tubular control arms for the front would be kind of a waste with the stock K-Member. I do not know however, what the K-member options are for your motor. I'm sure someone will come along that does.

 

[concorde01]

im plainging a new k member later but very low buget. i was looking at upr controls arms but am still looking for good cheaper choices. no china stuff though. lol

 

[concorde01]

i would like to wait till i find some used parts though and just do new bushings in them

 

[Noobz347]

I do not believe you are going to get what you are looking for in terms of handling without spending some pretty good money.

Reevaluate your goal and figure out exactly what you need the car to do and state your budget. Break it up into smaller pieces of needed. The kind of custom work you're going to need to reach those HP goals with that motor are likely going to make it counter productive.

I don't know what you have out in your area but I don't see too many 300 HP 2.3 liter Mustangs running around out here. Not even one that I can recall. We've got 300 HP V8s all day long though.

So figure out what it is you want the car to do and how much money you have to put toward it, and we'll try and help to get you there.

 

[concorde01]

i dont have a price limit other then 50 a week as i only make 150 a week

 

[Noobz347]

Start by finding out what condition your rear end components are in.

 

[concorde01]

im gonna put it on the lift at work as soon as i can