I am new to fords I am a Chevy guy but I've always liked fox mustangs and I have a 93 4cyl but I pulled the engine and tranny (automatic) now I pretty much have 10000 questions on what to do next. I know I want to run a 302 or 351w and stay automatic but I need help on what all I need and have to do to make this all happen within budget
1993 Mustang Project 4cyl To V8 Swap
- Thread starter Project 1993 fox mustang
- Start date
- Mar 2, 2015
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I'm doing the same thing right now. Either way you go...you need sub frame connectors that have the seat supports on them. Knowing which trans you'll use has a lot to do with trans cross member choices. First thong ....clean the engine bay.lol
This is going to sound harsh, but your first step is to stop everything you are doing and be brutally honest about yourself with this car.
1) is it a race/track car?
2) is it a car you have no intentions of selling?
3) are you willing to spend more on a swap than on a running v8 car?
Unless the answer to all 3 is yes then I suggest saving the current one as a parts car or selling it for whatever you can get out of it. Running v8 cars can be had for less than the cost of a conversion in carbed or efi trim. at the very least you need to find a v8 donor car to swap everything over. I mean everything. wiring, cross braces, exhaust, suspension, everything. 4 banger swap cars have absolutely zero resale value and aside from track purposed cars rarely see completion and get sold off for parts or as unwanted projects.
1) is it a race/track car?
2) is it a car you have no intentions of selling?
3) are you willing to spend more on a swap than on a running v8 car?
Unless the answer to all 3 is yes then I suggest saving the current one as a parts car or selling it for whatever you can get out of it. Running v8 cars can be had for less than the cost of a conversion in carbed or efi trim. at the very least you need to find a v8 donor car to swap everything over. I mean everything. wiring, cross braces, exhaust, suspension, everything. 4 banger swap cars have absolutely zero resale value and aside from track purposed cars rarely see completion and get sold off for parts or as unwanted projects.
- Mar 2, 2015
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I beg to differ stykhyn. 4 cylinder cars are not as beat on as v8 cars. Less likely to have a twisted chassis or torn torque boxes...the interiors are also less molested. Resale value depends more on what's in the car not whether its original v8 or not. Price also depends on how professionally done the car is. V8s, T5s, and AODs still can be found cheap. I'd rather have an unmolested 4 cylinder car to build than a beat up molested v8. A clean true 5.0 unmolested notch will run about 7 - 8 grand or more around here. 4 banger notches can be had for about 8 - 1500. Leaving 6 grand on the table for a build that you know inside and out...not somebody else's collabo of crap...only my mistakes to deal with. Lol
unless the build consists of entirely JY parts, especially if swapping in a 351, that 6k dollars is going to disappear very quickly and then you are left with a car that still says 4cyl on the title and will still only be worth 1500 dollars. when I first dipped my toes in the fox world I swapped a car. It was an absolute waste of time and money.
- Mar 2, 2015
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I've swapped a bunch of foxes. These cars have almost no value stock compared to nodded mustangs. When your buying a built fox with coilovers, roll cage, 427 supercharged stroker, 9in rear it doesn't matter that it wasn't originally a v8 car. All the original stuff is long gone. Who wants an original 225hp mustang nowadays. I'm not a collector...I believe in driving my cars.
hence my criteria, race car? sure. sentimental value? damn right. keep it, or do you just really have an itch that needs to be scratched like @madmike1157
If this is something that is just going to roll to the grocery store and back then keeping the 4 cylinder in place and pumping out the sound of a v8 throught the stereo would be a better option.
If this is something that is just going to roll to the grocery store and back then keeping the 4 cylinder in place and pumping out the sound of a v8 throught the stereo would be a better option.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
I only have $200 in my car that's why it's worth building lol clean title and all it was a good deal. I've always wanted a foxbody to just raise some hell in
- Mar 2, 2015
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My current project is a 1988 4cyl swap to a 331, fuel injected, cobra IRS, Hanlon motorsports built T5, etc. I've got everything accept the pro m maf for my 30lb. I'm a real mustang guy and I wouldn't want to rape a true v8 car like this. If I did buy a true v8 (wouldn't have a use for one right now) I'd keep it stock. The true v8 all original car would be the grocery getter....or the Sunday cruiser. These 4 bangers are the perfect candidates for builds. In order to build a v8 your still pulling the trans...pulling the motor...changing the suspension...changing the k member...changing the exhaust...changing the fuel system...changing the brakes. Wouldn't you rather see folks like me and the OP raping 4 cylinders...so they'll be more virgin v8 cars for you ?
Sure, I mean it's not like these are collectors items. If you want to spend your time and money sourcing the needed swap parts that are already on av8 car jump on it. The op said on a budget. Nothing about a swap without already owning all of those parts in the dorm of a donor car is budgetary.
But let's make that list he needs and dollar signs subjective depending on quality and condition
Motor and trans trans
Driveshaft
Carb and intake
Carb friendly distributor
Fuel pump
Carb Friendly Fuel Tank
Exhaust
Starter
Motor mounts
Rear end since that 7.5 will explode and has an open diff to boot
Ignition box
Probably a good idea to replace that worn suspension including springs, struts, and control arm bushings.
Trans mount
New radiator
Tranny cooler
Depending on his engine choice he may need a whole new accessory set up
Throttle cable
Kick down cable
Are we leaving stock 4cyl brakes?
Stock k member will work but the v8 unit is wider allowing more room for brakes and tires.
5 lug swap?
- Mar 2, 2015
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I'm all for a 200 buck body. That was a steal. Are you going stick or automatic ? To go carbed you don't need a whole lot. Well, not that much.
1. Double hump trans cross member
2. Low pressure carb fuel pump (external)
3. A ford distributor with vacuum advance
4. Carb intake
5. V8 exhaust
6. Sub frame connectors with seat braces
7. Bigger radiator
8. Good 302
9. Headers (exhaust manifolds)
10. V8 ignition coil
11. V8 flywheel
12. V8 block to trans plate
13. V8 starter (1994 - 95 gt starter)
14. accessory bracket for alternator and power steering.
15. V8 alternator ( I used a 1996 3.8 Ford Taurus one with a 1995 ford escort alternator pulley)...the pulley swap just spun it faster.
16. V8 front springs
17. V8 front spindles and brakes.
There's probably some stuff I forgot. Any 302 5.0 motor will work but the oil pan has to be changed to fit a mustang. Its not bad if you have Craigslist or a junkyard near you. My 88 ford e150 van has the same accessory brackets as my mustang. I used front brake rotors brakes and spindles from a 95 mustang...used a master cylinder and proportion valve from a 98 mustang when I swapped a 1998 gt rear with disc brakes into one of my cars.
I've seen people run with the stock 4cyl springs and brakes, but the cars don't handle well....at some point you'll stop but I like being able to stop on demand
You don't have to change the rear end 7.5 to an 8.8 but I would. The rear control arms are all the same. The driveshafts in the 4 cylinder automatic won't work in a v8. However, the 4 cylinder 5 speed will work in a v8 ( just change the bell housing) the 4 cylinder driveshaft will work with a v8 5 speed.
1. Double hump trans cross member
2. Low pressure carb fuel pump (external)
3. A ford distributor with vacuum advance
4. Carb intake
5. V8 exhaust
6. Sub frame connectors with seat braces
7. Bigger radiator
8. Good 302
9. Headers (exhaust manifolds)
10. V8 ignition coil
11. V8 flywheel
12. V8 block to trans plate
13. V8 starter (1994 - 95 gt starter)
14. accessory bracket for alternator and power steering.
15. V8 alternator ( I used a 1996 3.8 Ford Taurus one with a 1995 ford escort alternator pulley)...the pulley swap just spun it faster.
16. V8 front springs
17. V8 front spindles and brakes.
There's probably some stuff I forgot. Any 302 5.0 motor will work but the oil pan has to be changed to fit a mustang. Its not bad if you have Craigslist or a junkyard near you. My 88 ford e150 van has the same accessory brackets as my mustang. I used front brake rotors brakes and spindles from a 95 mustang...used a master cylinder and proportion valve from a 98 mustang when I swapped a 1998 gt rear with disc brakes into one of my cars.
I've seen people run with the stock 4cyl springs and brakes, but the cars don't handle well....at some point you'll stop but I like being able to stop on demand
You don't have to change the rear end 7.5 to an 8.8 but I would. The rear control arms are all the same. The driveshafts in the 4 cylinder automatic won't work in a v8. However, the 4 cylinder 5 speed will work in a v8 ( just change the bell housing) the 4 cylinder driveshaft will work with a v8 5 speed.
I totally agree with 90sickfox, I'd rather have the 4 banger body. #1 reason if making a car that you wanna drive to the track, and raise hell in, insurance company's don't look at oh he's not a high risk driver. They look at the vin and say yup it's a v8 car insurance jacked up automatically. V8 swap do it to it. I've done so incredibly many 4-to-v8 swaps its ridiculous. For project 93 fox guy it's his first fox swap, let him enjoy the experience and have fun with it. Stykhyn don't be a pessimist about the swap. You have said yourself you've traveled the fox world, lived and learned. Shoot who knows, maybe he has a young son and or daughter that he wants to share this experience with. These children might grow up trending the foxes too. People don't get the chances with there children as much as they should. If he's asking for help, give him the help. Don't crush a fox owner for trying. This forum is to help people with there projects and get them out being able to drive, not to criticize and say sell it. He's a Chevy guy turning his love blood sweat and hard work to a FORD. Which I never the less will say he in the end will appreciate because he did it not some other person. So with out further ado
2.3 has been pulled, check your shock towers to make sure they are intact " no rust spots by the k member". If in good shape not rusted out on we go. If rusty address first.
Clean up engine bay. If going with 302 and don't have one start by looking for 96-2000 explorer 5.0 motor they are roller motors and reliable hp comparison to the 87-93 5.0 225 hp motors. Find yourself a good used intake or buy new which ever way you would like to spend your cash. Find a carb. Your choice would say nothing more then a 750 CFm carb when going slightly more than stock. Fuel cells are cheap. But If your using stock tank, pull tank and replace fuel pump with same length hose as fuel pump length delete the fuel pump wires so no fires are caused, (best to delete wires inside of sending unit and external of tank),and put sending unit back in. You can still retain the stock use of the fuel level gauge by not deleting the fuel level wires. Scout out convertible 5.0 motor mounts from auto part center. They are relatively cheap.
Will need external fuel pump and fuel filter.
The list goes on but that's a decent start.
2.3 has been pulled, check your shock towers to make sure they are intact " no rust spots by the k member". If in good shape not rusted out on we go. If rusty address first.
Clean up engine bay. If going with 302 and don't have one start by looking for 96-2000 explorer 5.0 motor they are roller motors and reliable hp comparison to the 87-93 5.0 225 hp motors. Find yourself a good used intake or buy new which ever way you would like to spend your cash. Find a carb. Your choice would say nothing more then a 750 CFm carb when going slightly more than stock. Fuel cells are cheap. But If your using stock tank, pull tank and replace fuel pump with same length hose as fuel pump length delete the fuel pump wires so no fires are caused, (best to delete wires inside of sending unit and external of tank),and put sending unit back in. You can still retain the stock use of the fuel level gauge by not deleting the fuel level wires. Scout out convertible 5.0 motor mounts from auto part center. They are relatively cheap.
Will need external fuel pump and fuel filter.
The list goes on but that's a decent start.
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