1994 mustang ecm running rich

I had a similar experience, went with the cheap 42's off of eBay, I figured what's the worst that can happen? Poor idle was the first problem, cylinder balance test told me two of them were messed up (and the problem moved around with the injectors). Replaced those, and finally got decent idle. Went out for a nice Sunday afternoon drive and one of them stuck wide open. Managed to limp home slowly blowing thick white fuel vapor out the tailpipe, with one cylinder no doubt thoroughly washing the walls, and the others running lean as they were getting little of the pressure from the rail.

So short version, I ended up throwing about $150 into the trash, and bought the good ones (about $300) after a whole bunch of wasted time troubleshooting and pulling the intake, and possibly damaging my engine / catalytic converter / O2 sensors in the process (changed the oil immediately after the incident).

This is a forced-induction (turbo) application so that puts some extra load on the injectors (they have to fight against the boost pressure) which might have contributed. Maybe you can get lucky and get some decent results from the cheapos on a naturally aspirated car, but after my experienced I'd never risk it again for the $200 difference (the new ones have been good for 3 years so far without the slightest hiccup). Definitely not if you're doing any forced induction as you could grenade the motor in seconds.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


I had a similar experience, went with the cheap 42's off of eBay, I figured what's the worst that can happen? Poor idle was the first problem, cylinder balance test told me two of them were messed up (and the problem moved around with the injectors). Replaced those, and finally got decent idle. Went out for a nice Sunday afternoon drive and one of them stuck wide open. Managed to limp home slowly blowing thick white fuel vapor out the tailpipe, with one cylinder no doubt thoroughly washing the walls, and the others running lean as they were getting little of the pressure from the rail.

So short version, I ended up throwing about $150 into the trash, and bought the good ones (about $300) after a whole bunch of wasted time troubleshooting and pulling the intake, and possibly damaging my engine / catalytic converter / O2 sensors in the process (changed the oil immediately after the incident).

This is a forced-induction (turbo) application so that puts some extra load on the injectors (they have to fight against the boost pressure) which might have contributed. Maybe you can get lucky and get some decent results from the cheapos on a naturally aspirated car, but after my experienced I'd never risk it again for the $200 difference (the new ones have been good for 3 years so far without the slightest hiccup). Definitely not if you're doing any forced induction as you could grenade the motor in seconds.
Yeah they arnt they best but I’m waiting to get a tune to see that can’t fix my issues as I had the same issues before new injectors. Just scared he can’t tune out an intermittent check engine light for a rich code.
The cheap injectors are sold by a guy that sold me my maf kit so they are basically if they break I’m sending them back to him. Also if they fail cylinder balance which mine were doing if the cheap Pintle caps fall down or in the manifold.