1994 Mustang gt wont idle! Stalls...

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MackGerard

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May 15, 2011

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May 29, 2011

#1

• May 29, 2011

• #1

I was driving back from a weeding about 2 hours away and when I was about 10 min. away from home my mustang stalls.. I go to turn it on again and the first few times it wont turn over, then It finally does. I thought I was good so I put it in gear and released the clutch. It stalls again.. So I try to start it again, it takes a few times. i let it sit while trying to keep it idling (applying a little throttle. I put it in gear then start driving home again. About 2 min. from my house it stalls yet again.. I repeat the same process and finally get it home.. can anyone tell me what's wrong? How can I fix it? Thank you so much, Mack.

 

toyman

10 Year Member

Jul 19, 2007

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Vernon BC

May 29, 2011

#2

• May 29, 2011

• #2

My guess is the alternator isn't charging properly and as a result you are running on battery power. That's causing the battery volts to drop below the ECU threshold and the car stalls.

 

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MackGerard

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May 15, 2011

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May 30, 2011

#3

• May 30, 2011

• #3

Ok, I will test the alternator then and let you know. Thank you very much.

 

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MackGerard

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May 15, 2011

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May 30, 2011

#4

• May 30, 2011

• #4

I tested the alternator, it is the normal 14.5-14.7 volts that it should be. I am putting a new fuel filter in tomorrow then taking it down to my local shop to have a diagnostic done to it.

 

toyman

10 Year Member

Jul 19, 2007

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Vernon BC

May 30, 2011

#5

• May 30, 2011

• #5

MackGerard said:

I tested the alternator, it is the normal 14.5-14.7 volts that it should be. I am putting a new fuel filter in tomorrow then taking it down to my local shop to have a diagnostic done to it.

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Unless I misread you I thought you said it wouldn't crank immediately after it stalled. That leads back to the battery or the starting circuit. The battery can test for 12 volts but still not have enough cranking amps to spin the starter motor.

 

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MackGerard

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May 15, 2011

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May 31, 2011

#6

• May 31, 2011

• #6

Maybe i said it wrong, it will crank after it stalls. It just stalls again when i put it into gear and release the clutch.

 

toyman

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May 31, 2011

#7

• May 31, 2011

• #7

MackGerard said:

Maybe i said it wrong, it will crank after it stalls. It just stalls again when i put it into gear and release the clutch.

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That's quite different than your original post where you said, "I go to turn it on again and the first few times it wont turn over,", that implies a cranking issue vs. a non start issue. In any event, is there a baseline tune that we can work from? Plugs, wires, cap and rotor, that sort of stuff. It may be something simple but it's good to know what has been done recently. Since it's almost free clean the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner or non-chlorinated brake cleaner. You will need to remove the sensor to do this properly. I would also check for trouble codes.

 

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MackGerard

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Jun 1, 2011

#8

• Jun 1, 2011

• #8

Sorry for the confusion. I'm leaning more towards it being a fuel filter or fuel pump. I'm almost positive it is a gas issue. I am definitely going to clean the MAF sensor though. I also read a article somewhere that says the IAC from our cars gets a lot of carbon build up in them, is it with it to clean that too?

 

Dino Dino Bambino

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Jun 13, 2007

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Jun 1, 2011

#9

• Jun 1, 2011

• #9

MackGerard said:

I am definitely going to clean the MAF sensor though. I also read a article somewhere that says the IAC from our cars gets a lot of carbon build up in them, is it worth it to clean that too?

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Yes, definitely. Clean both the IAC and MAF sensor.

 

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MackGerard

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May 15, 2011

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Jun 2, 2011

#10

• Jun 2, 2011

• #10

Ok, I will do that today for sure. Thanks.

 

alleymad95GT

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Jun 2, 2011

#11

• Jun 2, 2011

• #11

Also, after you get those maintenance issues taken care of, pull the codes yourself. No real need at this early point to pay someone else to do it. It can be done by you with a paper clip, a pen or pencil, a piece of paper, and a bit of patience (as you will have to carefully count CEL flashes). Google "Ford DIY KOER" or something of that nature and you should pretty easily be able to find detailed instructions on performing the self-diagnostic. Or, PM and I will send a link. Also, you are looking for THREE DIGIT CODES - not two digit codes.

Alternatively, buy an OBD-I code reader. Sure, it is not the same caliber tool used by the dealer, but it is good enough that, in most cases, it can save you $75 in diagnostic fees. Just remember - test port in in engine bay, passenger side, to the rear of the strut tower - NOT the OBD-II port under the dash.

Amazon.com: Equus 3145 Ford Digital Code Reader: Automotive

 

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MackGerard

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Jun 3, 2011

#12

• Jun 3, 2011

• #12

Turns out my neighbor has a computer that will read the diagnostic. So I got lucky there. After work I am picking up the fuel filter, because I have been very busy this week. After I out the fuel filter in I am going to clean that MAF sensor and IAC.