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1994 Mustang Hydraulic Cylinders (Rams) Replacement

  • Thread starter Thread starter Miss Dallas
  • Start date Start date Mar 14, 2012

Miss Dallas

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Jan 21, 2012
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Mar 14, 2012
#1
  • Mar 14, 2012
  • #1
I was not able to find “Detailed” instructions online, on how to remove/replace my Convertible Top Hydraulic Cylinders (referred to as “HC’s” for the rest of this post), so I will give detailed instructions with photos of how I did this repair.

1st I pulled the reservoir plug from the hydraulic motor located behind the back seat (Previously removed entire back seat). I used a syphon-pump ($6 at Harbor Freight) to remove the ATF (Dexron-II). I am doing a swap-out of my fluid with this repair, if your not changing your fluid then omit this step, but do remove the plug and place a rag under it to absorb the impending spillage.

Then I raised and lowered the top (by hand) several times to bleed the fluid out of the HC’s.

Now comes the tricky (and potentially dangerous) part – to access the Torx Screws (mine are T-40) to remove the HC’s push/pull rod end from the convertible top frame, you have to prop the top up about 2 feet (see Pic-A). This can be done by a partner willing to hold up the side your working on, long enough for you to get the screw out. I was working alone, so I rednecked it, I used what I have on hand, to hold the top up (see Pic-B & Pic-C). Be prepared, these Torx screws are Very Hard to turn.







Your goal, by raising the top a bit, is to move the top frame into a position that will allow you access to the Torx Screws, it’s a very small window of access (see Pic-D). I used an extendible magnet to get the screws out after I loosened them. If you put your fingers in that space, and your top-support fails – You Will Loose Fingers!!!



Next I removed the retaining-end part of the brackets (see Pic-D) this is ½” open end wrench on mine. Then I removed the upper and lower hydraulic hoses – 7/16” open end wrench on mine. I labeled my “Upper” hydraulic hoses (see Pic-E) to be sure I reconnect properly.






I found plastic grommets in the connection holes of the old push/pull rods (see Pic-F), I removed these and installed them on the new HC’s.

There are foam-type o-rings glued to the old push/pull rod ends (see Pic-F), I will try to locate those tomorrow so I can begin the reinstall of the HC’s.

 

Miss Dallas

New Member
Jan 21, 2012
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Mar 14, 2012
#2
  • Mar 14, 2012
  • #2
Sorry that Pic-A is so crappy, I had to compress the file image so it would upload, but you get the point about how high the top needs to be, to access the Torx Screws.
 

Miss Dallas

New Member
Jan 21, 2012
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Mar 14, 2012
#3
  • Mar 14, 2012
  • #3
The only thing I lacked last night, for installation of my new rams was the O-Ring Foam thingies at each connection point of the rams. I drove all over town today trying to find proper replacements, no luck.

It seems that the foam rings are meant to keep dirt, etc, out of the places where the rams move/rotate (their connection points) I can’t see what other purpose they could possibly serve.

But I am Creative and a Redneck!!! I purchased a “Foam Roller Kit” from the paint department (see Pic) from Wallyworld for $2. The foam tubes (you have to pry them off of the plastic roller inside of them) are small and round with the same density of the ones I found on the old rams. I used my Kobalt Shop Shears to cut the tubes into O-Rings (see pic).

Tomorrow I will post the information and pictures of the ram replacements.



 

Miss Dallas

New Member
Jan 21, 2012
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1
Mar 19, 2012
#4
  • Mar 19, 2012
  • #4
I Need Advice!!!! I hit a glitch in this repair. I connected both new cylinders to the hydraulic hoses and while bleeding the air from the system (prior to attaching them to the tops frame), one of the cylinders blew it’s top rod seal.

I sent pictures to the company I ordered the rams from, and they are sending me a replacement. Tomorrow I will syphon the new ATF from the motor and try to bleed the ram before I disconnect it.

Now I Need Advice!!! When I bled the old rams (prior to disconnecting) they were still attached to the tops frame, so I was able to manually lift and lower the top several times to relieve the pressure in the rams prior to disconnection.

The new rams are not connected to the tops frame yet. Once I have removed the ATF from the motor, I can’t run it to bleed the damaged ram. Does anyone know how I can manually bleed the damaged ram so I can safely disconnect it????
 

Bullitt347

I have been doing it wrong this whole time
15 Year Member
Mar 23, 2007
3,973
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Middle of Maine
Mar 20, 2012
#5
  • Mar 20, 2012
  • #5
I would just loosen up the fitting to the cylinder a bit with a shop rag wrapped around the area to soak up the fluid that will leak out. Once the fluid quits coming out, then the fitting would be safe to remove from the cylinder.
 

Miss Dallas

New Member
Jan 21, 2012
12
0
1
Mar 21, 2012
#6
  • Mar 21, 2012
  • #6
Bullitt347 said:
I would just loosen up the fitting to the cylinder a bit with a shop rag wrapped around the area to soak up the fluid that will leak out. Once the fluid quits coming out, then the fitting would be safe to remove from the cylinder.
Click to expand...

I syphoned the Dexron out of the hydraulic motor, then did as you said. I slowly worked the hoses off, I let them drain between each turn of the wrench, and everything worked out Perfectly!!!! Thanks so much Mr. 347!!!!
 

Bullitt347

I have been doing it wrong this whole time
15 Year Member
Mar 23, 2007
3,973
2,954
194
Middle of Maine
Mar 21, 2012
#7
  • Mar 21, 2012
  • #7
Glad it worked out for you and glad to help.
 
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