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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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1995 fuel rail question?

  • Thread starter Thread starter jester760
  • Start date Start date Jan 23, 2010

jester760

New Member
Jan 23, 2010
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Jan 23, 2010
#1
  • Jan 23, 2010
  • #1
I have a 1995 gt that i'm going to install a 255lph fuel pump, 42lb injectors, 150 wet shot, and a adjustable regulator already purchased. The regulator mounts to the factory position, and my wife said for my birthday she was buying me some fuel rails. Will the fuel regulator mout to the fuel rails, and will the factory rails work just fine. That would let me get something else Any information would be wonderful. THANKS
 

Venom351R

Founding Member
Apr 27, 2002
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Jan 23, 2010
#2
  • Jan 23, 2010
  • #2
if shes buying you new rails why do you need to know if the factory rails will work just fine or are you asking if you should even get aftermarket rails or not? A fuel pressure regulator will directly mount to the stock fuel rails, just goes on the schrader valve.
 

393strokervert

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Jun 12, 2009
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florida
Jan 23, 2010
#3
  • Jan 23, 2010
  • #3
I don't know why your stock rails wouldn't work just fine.... mine has the stock rails on it. like you mentioned> the regulator would just go in the stock location, (a pressure "gauge" would go on the shrader valve 'not' a "regulator"...as previous poster mentioned)....... just my .02 > have her buy you something you really need or want whatever it may be.... that is unless you just want new rails, but I think the stockers will work fine.
hope this helps.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
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#4
  • Jan 23, 2010
  • #4
The fuel pressure regulator goes on the back of the fuel rail, it really doesn't have anything to do with the schrader valve. Anyway, if you get aftermarket rails, the fuel pressure regulator that is designed to work with the stock rails will not work with the aftermarket ones. The stock fuel rails support at least 600hp. 42lb/hr injectors sound a little on the big side too. What kind of nitrous system is this?

Kurt
 

toyman

10 Year Member
Jul 19, 2007
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Jan 23, 2010
#5
  • Jan 23, 2010
  • #5
As mentioned, the stock rails are fine. If you need anything, a tune is a must for what you are proposing. I'd have your wife pay for the tune for your birthday present.
 

caribe94

New Member
Dec 2, 2009
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Virgin Islands
Jan 24, 2010
#6
  • Jan 24, 2010
  • #6
toyman said:
As mentioned, the stock rails are fine. If you need anything, a tune is a must for what you are proposing. I'd have your wife pay for the tune for your birthday present.
Click to expand...

+1

And it's nice to have a wife that supports your hobby. Treat her like an empress!
 

Venom351R

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Jan 24, 2010
#7
  • Jan 24, 2010
  • #7
revhead347 said:
The fuel pressure regulator goes on the back of the fuel rail, it really doesn't have anything to do with the schrader valve.
Kurt
Click to expand...

Thats what I thought he was talking about.
 

hollywoodstang

Active Member
May 23, 2006
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Jan 24, 2010
#8
  • Jan 24, 2010
  • #8
Why not make her happy and get the aftermarket fuel rails? She wants to get you these so tell her to make sure she gets the an fittings and braided fuel lines as well, tell her not to forget about the new fuel regulator to go with the new rails and the new fuel lines

Good luck man Your wife is awesome, My girlfriend don't buy me ****!
 

jester760

New Member
Jan 23, 2010
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Alabama
Jan 24, 2010
#9
  • Jan 24, 2010
  • #9
Yeah, she is awesome!!!! The nitrous kit is made by dyno tune. Has anybody heard any good or bad things about them? I think i will keep the stock fuel rails, she just said fuel rails because i was talking about them. She would probaly get me the tune if I asked. I live in ALABAMA (ROLL TIDE) and HUX RACING so far is the only people that i can find that will do the tune that seem like they know what they are doing. He quoted me 250.00 for the tune, and 250.00 for the dyno time 500 total. If the 42lb injectors seem large what would you recommend? My car is a 1995 gt with the stock bottom end. It has a track-heat upper and lower, 24lb injectors, Brodix heads with 1.6's, C&L cold air,75mm bbk throttle body, bbk pullies, mac shorty headers with custom exhaust to 2 chamber flows, b-303 cam , 373's, Smog and egr deleated, msd 6al box, wires,coil, e3 sparkplugs, Timing up to 14deg. The bad thing is it has a aode!!!!!
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
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#10
  • Jan 24, 2010
  • #10
I assume those are the entry level 20 degree Brodix heads you have, because of the cam. That cam is a little on the small side for it to be a larger Brodix heads. The stock 24lb/hr injectors should be fine. Certainly no bigger than 30lb/hr injectors. Any bigger than that, and you will start to lose a little power, because the duty cycle on the injectors will drop, hurting the mixture. You definately don't need bigger fuel rails. Some of the aftermarket fuel rails interfere with the distributer with certain intake combinations too. So you end up having to drop $200 or more on billet distributer that doesn't work as well as the original one just because you bought fuel rails you didn't need. The 42lb/hr injectors aren't necessary until you have a blower pushing some decent boost.

Dyno tune nitrous is a decent company. I've bought some parts from the before, but never a whole kit. That is a wet kit, so it runs independent of your injectors anyway. So that has no effect on what injectors you run.

$500 for the tune sounds like a good deal.

Kurt
 

jester760

New Member
Jan 23, 2010
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Alabama
Jan 24, 2010
#11
  • Jan 24, 2010
  • #11
Great, Thanks!! The car had the brodix heads on it when I bought it, and the cam also. I contacted the builder of the motor, and as far as he remembers it has a b303. I havent broke down the motor to see. What cam would you recommend? Is there some way I could tell which brodix heads are on it? Once again Thanks, for all your help.
 

toyman

10 Year Member
Jul 19, 2007
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Jan 24, 2010
#12
  • Jan 24, 2010
  • #12
jester760 said:
The bad thing is it has a aode!!!!!
Click to expand...

Don't be so quick to knock the AODE. With a shift kit and upgrades it can handle a lot of HP and shift faster than you can blink.
 

jester760

New Member
Jan 23, 2010
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Alabama
Jan 24, 2010
#13
  • Jan 24, 2010
  • #13
With what kind of upgrades? Transgo, or B&M?
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,296
1,640
214
Acworth, GA
Jan 24, 2010
#14
  • Jan 24, 2010
  • #14
jester760 said:
With what kind of upgrades? Transgo, or B&M?
Click to expand...

Not sure about the TransGo, but I know B&M is reputable. I've only rebuilt one automatic, it was a complete pain in the ass, and I used a B&M on it.

Kurt
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,296
1,640
214
Acworth, GA
Jan 24, 2010
#15
  • Jan 24, 2010
  • #15
jester760 said:
Great, Thanks!! The car had the brodix heads on it when I bought it, and the cam also. I contacted the builder of the motor, and as far as he remembers it has a b303. I havent broke down the motor to see. What cam would you recommend? Is there some way I could tell which brodix heads are on it? Once again Thanks, for all your help.
Click to expand...

There should be a stamping number somwhere on the outside of the head. If not, there should be one under the valve covers somewhere. You should be able to figure out what kind of heads they are with that number. As far as the cam goes, the only way to figure out what that is, is to take the engine apart and check the grind number on the camshaft. The only reason I would do that is if I was unhappy with the performance of the car, because it is a decent amount of work. I would put the car on a dyno first, and see if it makes good power. If your happy with the power, then why bother pulling the engine all apart. Aside from that, the best camshaft is always a custom grind. If you want a recommendation on an off the shelf cam, because you don't want to drop the change on a custom, and I've said this many times, I know. Then call a rep at comp cams and they will give you a recommendation. Those guys know a lot more about camshafts then you are going to get off a website like this. If you think that price is a little steep, then compare those specs with other camshafts. The cheapest ones are generally the Trick Flow camshafts. And if the recommended cam is about the same spec as shelf grind Trick Flow, then you can save about $100 by getting the Trick Flow.

Kurt
 

jester760

New Member
Jan 23, 2010
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0
Alabama
Jan 24, 2010
#16
  • Jan 24, 2010
  • #16
Thanks ,again for the info! When I get that far I'll check it out. I have some tel-stars (fats and skinnies) that i'm thinking of trading for a lentech aode. I've heard that its a good transmission. He wants 1500 for it, the good thing is if it has a transbrake i'll come out to the good. He hasn't droped the pan so he doesn't know if it does, but if it does i can still get it for 1500.
 

toyman

10 Year Member
Jul 19, 2007
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Vernon BC
Jan 24, 2010
#17
  • Jan 24, 2010
  • #17
jester760 said:
With what kind of upgrades? Transgo, or B&M?
Click to expand...

For upgrades I was thinking about these items:

Clutch cylinders modified for extra clutches
8 "high energy" 3-4 clutches
4 redlined intermediate clutches
5 "high energy" forward clutches
3 or 4 reverse clutches
New 2" redlined O/D band
Hardened output shaft

Shift kit could be a Transgo HD2.

And most important, add a stacked plate Tranny cooler of at least 13000 BTU.

From a later post I see you referenced the Lentech. Check to see which one in particular the seller has as Lentech puts together a few different ones. Street or Strip usage may be important for you.
 

jester760

New Member
Jan 23, 2010
6
0
0
Alabama
Jan 25, 2010
#18
  • Jan 25, 2010
  • #18
What kind of cost do think I'm looking at? With this transmission build.
 

toyman

10 Year Member
Jul 19, 2007
1,944
54
79
Vernon BC
Jan 25, 2010
#19
  • Jan 25, 2010
  • #19
jester760 said:
What kind of cost do think I'm looking at? With this transmission build.
Click to expand...

About $2k.
 
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