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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

1995 GT (EEC-IV) post-modification pre-tune question.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Joseph-Lynch_
  • Start date Start date Mar 10, 2009
J

Joseph-Lynch_

New Member
Aug 26, 2008
4
0
0
Copperas Cove
Mar 10, 2009
#1
  • Mar 10, 2009
  • #1
First my question is what symtoms are normal issues for a motor that is out of the EEC-IV tolerance. I ask this because I have just over this last summer I pulled my tired 302 out of my 95 GT conv. and opted to up grade quite a bit during the rebuild and installation.

The new Specs/Parts are:
331 stroker with flat top pistons and a 28oz Balance.
F303 Cam.
AFR 185cc/72cc heads.
TF Track heat intake manifold.
190lph fuel pump.
30pnd injectors.

Origanally I intended on keeping the mods within the EEC-IV's tolerance. Well due to multiple facters such as the time line I was working, deals on parts, and what was on hand at the retailers I was purchasing from my plans were altered along the way . So now I get to Tune the EEC.

My question is what issues should I expect prior to the tune. I want to make sure that when I take it to be tuned that I dont have any issues other than whats expected pre-tune. Right now she starts but doesnt hold an idle longer than a few minuts then wil hunt or surg I suspect the injectors are the main cause. I have taken it on a few short drives such as a few blocks (1/4mile +/-) and around the block a few times and she runs hot but not to the point of over heating.

My main concern is I will get to the Dyno and find that there are other issues and not be able to tune.

Thanks for reading and any suggestions,
Joe
 

final5-0

Mustang Master
Apr 6, 2003
6,817
12
79
DFW Texas
Mar 10, 2009
#2
  • Mar 10, 2009
  • #2
What kind of meter?

Is it caled for those 30's?

Are the 30's OEM or Bosch inj's?

If your cooling is still OEM ... You can expect that kind of thing

Your making significantly more power now
therefore
You should expect the heat to rise a good bit

The OEM cooling system is barely adequate for the little 302

Grady
 

Stanger007

Founding Member
Sep 26, 2001
2,015
2
46
Baton Rouge, LA
Mar 11, 2009
#3
  • Mar 11, 2009
  • #3
The primary issues I run into when I have customers come in for a tune are (more or less in this order):

Exhaust leaks, vacuum leaks, bad O2s, fluid leaks, clogged fuel filter/air filter

Wes
 

ProKiller

Founding Member
Apr 26, 2002
3,064
15
78
PA
Mar 11, 2009
#4
  • Mar 11, 2009
  • #4
like wes said, go over all the bases. Check everything first. go back over everything. Don't be like me and have the starter fall out while being strapped onto the dyno.

The F303 cam isn't the most friendly for our cars computers. I'd be amazed if the car did actually idle and run with all the swapping you did. With a tune it is a decent performer but to start off its rough.
 
J

Joseph-Lynch_

New Member
Aug 26, 2008
4
0
0
Copperas Cove
Mar 11, 2009
#5
  • Mar 11, 2009
  • #5
Thanks guys for your help.

Yes he cooling is stock what would be an adiquit up\grade for the cooling?

I have been over the Vacume with a fine tooth comb several times as I replaced alot of the factory tubing. No leaks there.

I replaced the Exaust with BBK shortys in the front and Borla Cat back. I had it inspected and it passed with no isssues. So the stock cats should be fine.

So these symtoms I have mentioned would Be greatly improved after tune or should I Look for other causes.


final5-0 said:
What kind of meter?

Is it caled for those 30's? No cal yet

Are the 30's OEM or Bosch inj's?They are FR issued injectors.

If your cooling is still OEM ... You can expect that kind of thing

Your making significantly more power now Any guesses on the increese?
therefore
You should expect the heat to rise a good bit

The OEM cooling system is barely adequate for the little 302

Grady
Click to expand...
 

99FiveOh

15 Year Member
May 20, 2006
2,051
20
99
J-Ville, FL
Mar 12, 2009
#6
  • Mar 12, 2009
  • #6
For cooling, you really should upgrade to a 2 row or better radiator. There are a few choices out there and some have adapted their cars to use a less expensive Summit radiator, do a search on that if you want.

Also, when you go in for the tune, they are more than likely going to have your fans cycle on at a lower temp, this will DRAMATICALLY improve your cooling! And don't forget to install a 180* thermostat.

And I'm not sure why you would build a motor of that magnitude and leave the old factory cats in place. You should as least run with a good aftermarket catted H or X pipe. Those factory turtle shells are gonna cost you some HP!
 
J

Joseph-Lynch_

New Member
Aug 26, 2008
4
0
0
Copperas Cove
Mar 12, 2009
#7
  • Mar 12, 2009
  • #7
The Shells are temp. I have to recharge my car fund. I still have a few purchases in mind. As for the cooling info thanks for the shared knowledge.
 
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