1995 gt missing power

triplearay said:

I just bought a 1995 mustang gt. My first mustang.

I got a great deal but after driving it a couple day was disapointed in the power. I ask a co-worker with a 95 gt to drive it and he also thought it was missing some power. It runs fine at nomal driving but when I try to get on it it just dosn't respond well. hoping its something normal and simple to fix. Exhust, plugs and wires, maybe a trotle body. Hope you can help!

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All good stuff to consider. But first get a can of MAF cleaner, remove the MAF sensor and spray well and re-install. Good chance that is the main problem. Might consider replacing the fuel and air filters at the same time. Could be one of many things. If you are planning on keeping the car I would also suggest you buy a code reader. That item alone will save you a fortune in throwing parts onto the car in the hope it's the right thing.

Save on Equus 3145 at ToolTopia.com

Welcome to the boards!

Agreed with Richard.

You'll probably wanna give it the tune-up that you've planned on.

Also, if the car has any sort of mods, please create a sig. Modifications and aftermarket parts sometimes change and shape our advice.

Good luck.

In July I bought my 95 GT vert and even when I test drove it I knew something was 'off' and I test drove it at 10:45pm, so there was pretty dark. I ended up buying it anyway, $3900 and when I opened the hood the next day in the sunlight, the #8 plug boot was on the plug, but not all the way. Once that was on there, the power was back.

Go over the basics like already stated.

Clean MAF, plugs, wires, clean TB, clean IAC, check TPS voltage, set idle properly, set timing properly... All the the above stuff is very inexpensive and there are tons of "how-to's" that can help you with each thing. Best advice I can give is start with a good base tune up and make sure everything is operating the way it should be before you start adding performance parts, you will save yourself alot of headaches.

Welcome to the world of mustangs, it's a blast!

Ben

if an engine light comes on after the car is warmed up you could have bad o2 sensors look for bad throttle response, idle surges. also try cleaning the maf with the electrical cleaner

will that throw a code?

thats exactly what mine is doing. runs fine but when i get on it pretty good the check engine comes on then goes off right away. when i really put my foot down its got an awful hesitation and the light comes on then goes right back off. when i pulled codes i got 111 and 10. flipped through the book and from what i gather, that means all systems go. its gotta new k&n air filter, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, and fuel pump from what i've been told. just replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor myself. didn't help. the plugs don't look that great. got sort of a rusty look to them. could bad oxygen sensors cause that. btw previous owner told me there should be 4 on this car and he could only fine 2. its got straight pipes going from headers to flowmasters. didn't know what to think bout that. haven't had time to crawl under and take a look.

bump

Stangof87, what memory codes did you get? 10 is the separator between the two sets of codes. If the CEL was on, there should be a code stored.

As far as I know, our cars only have 2.

FWIW, I have a set of O2 sensors I bought and didn't use. Just in case one of you guys are thinking about replacing the sensors.

stang0f87 said:

thats exactly what mine is doing. runs fine but when i get on it pretty good the check engine comes on then goes off right away. when i really put my foot down its got an awful hesitation and the light comes on then goes right back off. when i pulled codes i got 111 and 10. flipped through the book and from what i gather, that means all systems go. its gotta new k&n air filter, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, and fuel pump from what i've been told. just replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor myself. didn't help. the plugs don't look that great. got sort of a rusty look to them. could bad oxygen sensors cause that. btw previous owner told me there should be 4 on this car and he could only fine 2. its got straight pipes going from headers to flowmasters. didn't know what to think bout that. haven't had time to crawl under and take a look.

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My guess is its throwing a "Lean left bank" followed by a "Lean right bank" code, because the MAF Sensor is so dirty from that junk K&N filter. My car had the exact problem, wayyyy underpowered, struggled to spin the tires in first. The oil from the K&N sticks on the sensor wires and then collects dirt, building up a "fuzz" on the wires.

Take the sensor right out of the housing, you will need a special security torx bit which can be bought from most parts stores, spray the crap out of the wire elements with electronics cleaner, then take a Q-tip soaked in the cleaner and very gently and carefully rub the wires, repeat this until the Q-tip comes out clean. Most people tell you not to touch the wires, but i found that i could not get it totally clean with spray alone, you just need to be very gentle and put no pressure on the Q-tip, or else you could break the wire and you will need a new sensor. Once your done that, throw that K&N in the trash and put in a regular paper filter or else it will just gum up the sensor again. you will be surpised at the difference in power.


Also, the 94/95 cars are pre OBD-II, which means only 2 02 sensors before the cats and in your case the cats have been removed which wont hurt anything other than Al Gores feelings.

I just bought my 94 gt vert last weekend. I had the same problem, went and bought some MAF cleaner from autozone, pulled the MAF and cleaned it (cleaned the IAT sensor off as well). Now she runs like a champ. But like everyone else is saying, while your at it set timing correctly, and clean your throttle body and other basic tune up items and hopefully youll be good to go. And yes its only 2 O2 sensors.

yup that cleared it right up. used electrical cleaner and q-tips. ain't ever gonna use the k&n filter again.