I have a relatively new to me (bought 1 year ago when I fixed a few things) '95 GT that runs great until very recently. Twice it has died in parking lot and leaving neighborhood after starting and idling just fine. Both times it would not start but just crank with absolutely no sign of starting and both times let it sit for about 10 mins and then starts and drives just fine with no issues - idles fine, revs fine, etc. Between those 2 times about a week apart it ran just fine. I have code reader and is my next step but also hoping someone has some ideas for this issue and what to look at for testing/troubleshooting.
1995 GT Random Starting Issue
- Thread starter kfvintx
- Start date
Pull codes, fix all that you can, and then go here:
stangnet.com
Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs
Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected 5.0 Mustangs model years 1986-1995 A word about this checklist before you start: it is arranged in a specific order to put the most likely failure items first. That will save you time, energy and money. Start at the top of the list and work...
stangnet.com
Pulled the codes - 181, 211, 212. The entire distributor was replaced last year with MSD (since have learned maybe not the best option). The biggest problem in troubleshooting using the list is it has only happened twice and both times away from house so no tools to run thru the checklist. And then after 10 mins it starts and drives fine back to the house. It has never been an issue starting in driveway where I can troubleshoot.
Grab a TFI module and the little tool and next time it dies and does not start right back up swap out the TFI and see if it starts.
181 - Right side still lean, at richest adaptive limit, during part throttle
211 - Two or more successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in a possible engine miss or stall
212 - Loss of IDM (Ignition Diagnostic Monitor) input to EEC or SPOUT circuit grounded
181 - Swap the O2’s from side to side and see if the code follows the O2 or stays on the right side.
211 & 212 - MSD EFI distributors do have a reputation but it was mostly with the Fox cars and the TFI. I would check the connectors and make sure you are getting a good connection. If you can get your hands on a known good distributor that would help troubleshoot.
211 - Two or more successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in a possible engine miss or stall
212 - Loss of IDM (Ignition Diagnostic Monitor) input to EEC or SPOUT circuit grounded
181 - Swap the O2’s from side to side and see if the code follows the O2 or stays on the right side.
211 & 212 - MSD EFI distributors do have a reputation but it was mostly with the Fox cars and the TFI. I would check the connectors and make sure you are getting a good connection. If you can get your hands on a known good distributor that would help troubleshoot.
CAMTWO1070
Active Member
Sounds to me like you need to dig into the wiring a lil and find a possible power draw..
First things I do is go and clean and check all grounds especially for the ones for the EEC and the EEC / fuelpump relays which give issues after the internal diodes burn out..
Another area to look is the pickup module..When the rubber gets soft like a gummy bear or changes color heavily its time to change the pickup sensor and just because the distributor you say you have is sold by MSD its made in China and donned with chinese made internals and what makes them really hard to service is the facts that the gear is pressed on with way more force than needed and when reinstalling the gear an oven and a freezer will be needed.....
Most people spend roughly $100.00 for a machine shop to do it and when doing a distributor gear replacement right depends on getting the timing right or setting the timing 12* off due to the odd amount of distributor teeth and the rotor being in 2 different places at TDC with dist gear installed right and when installed 180* wrong because the reluctor wheels placement for the small tip will be registering 12* off causing issues with the injectors spraying on time or turning SEFI into a crude batch fire system. firing the injectors 12* out of sync with intake valve opening eventts..
And speaking of the reluctor wheel theres a certain width each tooth and space must be and the reluctor wheel they put in at MSD was way off on size and widths also airgaps that I had to swap in the wheel from my old OEM Ford distributor to get better accuracy for the PIP profile..
And speaking of the reluctor wheel theres a certain width each tooth and space must be and the reluctor wheel they put in at MSD was way off on size and widths also airgaps that I had to swap in the wheel from my old OEM Ford distributor to get better accuracy for the PIP profile..
Look at the pictures of the gear below and how the rollpin lines up to the teeth on both sides..
When I had issues similar to yours besides the ignition switch the thrust plate in another engine had too much slack causing excessive cam walk which worn out the bronze bushing on the lower part of the distributor causing the shaft to short to ground causing havoc for the TFI module the coil and the ECU.
I start to check for wiring issues by doing a wire wiggle test while the engine is idling....If the engine changes pitch or stalls while wiggling the wires in a certain area will pinpoint the area of issue...
As explained above when I had the issue with one of my vehicles the ignition switch went bad and overheated after the alternator started running high and erratic which caused the ignition switch to heat up then break its seal and separate until it cooled but was slowly burning up too.....
Good Luck
First things I do is go and clean and check all grounds especially for the ones for the EEC and the EEC / fuelpump relays which give issues after the internal diodes burn out..
Another area to look is the pickup module..When the rubber gets soft like a gummy bear or changes color heavily its time to change the pickup sensor and just because the distributor you say you have is sold by MSD its made in China and donned with chinese made internals and what makes them really hard to service is the facts that the gear is pressed on with way more force than needed and when reinstalling the gear an oven and a freezer will be needed.....
Most people spend roughly $100.00 for a machine shop to do it and when doing a distributor gear replacement right depends on getting the timing right or setting the timing 12* off due to the odd amount of distributor teeth and the rotor being in 2 different places at TDC with dist gear installed right and when installed 180* wrong because the reluctor wheels placement for the small tip will be registering 12* off causing issues with the injectors spraying on time or turning SEFI into a crude batch fire system. firing the injectors 12* out of sync with intake valve opening eventts..
And speaking of the reluctor wheel theres a certain width each tooth and space must be and the reluctor wheel they put in at MSD was way off on size and widths also airgaps that I had to swap in the wheel from my old OEM Ford distributor to get better accuracy for the PIP profile..
And speaking of the reluctor wheel theres a certain width each tooth and space must be and the reluctor wheel they put in at MSD was way off on size and widths also airgaps that I had to swap in the wheel from my old OEM Ford distributor to get better accuracy for the PIP profile..
Look at the pictures of the gear below and how the rollpin lines up to the teeth on both sides..
When I had issues similar to yours besides the ignition switch the thrust plate in another engine had too much slack causing excessive cam walk which worn out the bronze bushing on the lower part of the distributor causing the shaft to short to ground causing havoc for the TFI module the coil and the ECU.
I start to check for wiring issues by doing a wire wiggle test while the engine is idling....If the engine changes pitch or stalls while wiggling the wires in a certain area will pinpoint the area of issue...
As explained above when I had the issue with one of my vehicles the ignition switch went bad and overheated after the alternator started running high and erratic which caused the ignition switch to heat up then break its seal and separate until it cooled but was slowly burning up too.....
Good Luck
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