1st stang

[Blakthorn]

just aquired a 87 gt convertible in great condition and completly stock, and was wondering where I should start putting my money into.. I've heard the best bang for the buck is upgrading the gears and intake

also 1 slight problem, the gas tank door does not close all the way, the button to open it is located in the glove box and works fine but when the door is shut it does not seem to be sitting flush with the body - anyone know whats causing this? thanks

 

[shorty1993]

gears are a good place to start, along with control arms and other suspension parts. at least that way when you add to the engine it will be going to the ground. that is just my .02

 

[pisgahhiker]

the gas door latch is prob bent.

Go get some parts to upgrade the suspension and a set of gears.

You may go gears first as your car is one of the most heavy ones made it will help you out.

I usually work from suspention then brakes then to the motor.

You don't want to hop up the motor just to spin the rears and then have a stoping problem.

 

[Michael Yount]

Gears - but even more important in my opinion, before you start asking the car to do more, strengthen the structure. Convertibles are even more 'flexible' than the roofed stangs because the top's been cutoff. Anything you can do to strengthen the unibody of the car should be done before you start building more power. Contact the convertible owners out there - separate post - and ask them what they've used (like subframe connectors) to stiffen up the unibody on their cars. The verts already have extra metal in different places -- but it not only does it make the vert heavier than a non-vert, it doesn't completely make up for the roof having been removed.

When you get to the engine - long tube headers - they'll really help bottom end torque which you'll need with the heavier car, and replace the intake manifold or have tmoss port your lower intake. The intake is the biggest flow restriction on the stock engine - it should be replaced first.

 

[Blakthorn]

thanks for the help, maybe I should give you all some more info so you can narrow down which mods are first

1987 v8 5.0 mustang gt convertible
47.5k original miles
1 previous owner, beach car, no rust
fuel inj
completly stock, down to the luggage rack

 

[xplo89gt]

Everyone has given some pretty solid advice thus far.

I think one of the most important steps is a full tune up. When you buy a used car chances are the previous owner hasn't done a tune up in a while.
Get a new cap + rotor w/ brass terminals, 9mm fms plug wires, some motorcraft spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter (if you dont go with k&n which you might as well do), and flush some fluids (definately oil if not more).

Then as Michael said, strengthening the frame would be very beneficial. Do at least subframe connectors. Get the full length ones. Maximum Motorsports has some pretty good ones. Note: these need to be welded.

Then I would go with gears and start on exhaust. Also I didn't see you list if it is an auto + 5spd. If it is an auto I would think about doing the stall convertor as well.

Good luck and enjoy it!!

 

[shorty1993]

Gears - but even more important in my opinion, before you start asking the car to do more, strengthen the structure. Convertibles are even more 'flexible' than the roofed stangs because the top's been cutoff. Anything you can do to strengthen the unibody of the car should be done before you start building more power. Contact the convertible owners out there - separate post - and ask them what they've used (like subframe connectors) to stiffen up the unibody on their cars. The verts already have extra metal in different places -- but it not only does it make the vert heavier than a non-vert, it doesn't completely make up for the roof having been removed.

When you get to the engine - long tube headers - they'll really help bottom end torque which you'll need with the heavier car, and replace the intake manifold or have tmoss port your lower intake. The intake is the biggest flow restriction on the stock engine - it should be replaced first.

thanks, i somehow overlooked the converible part of the post. subframes are A+.

 

[Blakthorn]

its an auto by the way, everything has been very helpful, thanks

i am at the MM website and deciding on whether to get the steel or black - what do you all suggest?

1983-93 Convertible bare steel MMFL-2B $109/set Qty:
powdercoated black MMFL-2PC $139/set Qty:

anyone have any idea of what shipping costs for the connectors and estimated install/labor price?



im considering buying the MM Chassis Brace Package (The MM Chassis Brace Package consists of the MM Strut Tower Brace*, MM 4-Point K-Member Brace**, and your choice of MM Subframe Connectors. )

Full Length bare steel MMCBP-15 $333.12 Qty:
powdercoated MMCBP-16 $361.92


$360 for strut brace (will it get in the way of any other mods, such as intake?) k member and full length subframe connectors


what do you guys think?

 

[Blakthorn]

?

 

[Michael Yount]

If you're gonna have them welded in (preferred) I wouldn't get them coated as the welding process will require coating to be removed.

 

[Blakthorn]

will the steel rust if its not coated?

 

[Michael Yount]

??? I'm sorry - I guess I thought it went without saying that you'd paint them after they were installed. Unless they're made out of stainless, yes, the steel will rust. It's what steel does.

 

[Blakthorn]

what should they be painted with, what type of paint?

 

[FrdMustangCpe]

spray









jk, i would say any rust prevenative paint is always a good choice for the underside. mine are welded in and painted black. i have no clue what brand because the previous owner put them in

 

[Blakthorn]

are the sprays at the bottom of this page any good??

http://www.zip-products.com/Mustang...alse&mscssid=07B81A8663EAA4B68862C239EFD47A62

 

[Michael Yount]

It's not worth that much thought - pick up some flat black rustoleum - they'll be fine. If you want something a little better, check out The Eastwood Company's products - search you'll find the site.

 

[Blakthorn]

i know this is out of the blue but... --- flowmaster original 40 series or 40 series delta flow ??? which one should I go with?

 

[Scorcher2005]

depends what kind of exhaust tone you want. I went with flowmaster 40 series 2chambers so it would be loud. I like the sound of my exhaust. For subframes, if you wanna get some for cheap go lookup some cgs chassis subframes on www.ebay.com . I got mine for $48 shipped to my door.

 

[shorty1993]

you may not want to invest the time or the extra money, but you could always use standard rustoleum then come back in and get some rubber undercoat for extra protection. it also looks good.

 

[Blakthorn]

do you all think the MM chasis package is good for the $$ ?