2.3 turbo torture test :D

SPEED FREAK · Apr 8, 2005

I am going to be putting together the most budget of all turbo builds this summer. I landed me a 92 2.3 litre with wiring computer etc.. for 100 bucks... SO it's going to get the beating of it's life soon. I am going to use 2 head gaskets to get the compression down. I am going to use a 88 TC exhaust manifold with a t4/t3 hybrid turbo i have sitting in my shed. and for fuel delivery I will use the sds extra fuel vs. boost management system (dumps in more fuel via some extra injectors plumbed in the intake line. The rest will be home made by yours truly. My goal for this thing is 250 hp it will do it or DIE trying. engine has 70,000 miles on it so I have high hopes for it . Bets on how long this thing will hold together before it puts some rods through the block?

2.3Lxhatch311 · Apr 8, 2005

Hmm. Maybe 1500 revolutions?

ahnospell44 · Apr 8, 2005

I say it'll survive until you get 300 hp, or try to get a bost into the block, cause don't the N/A engines blow up once a turbo is introduced? I was always told that it would blow the block up...that is unless the engine is Turbo from the begining...

140CILX-Coupe · Apr 8, 2005

eh just make sure you dont have any detonation and your be fine.

good luck breaking a conrod.

ethridgeruby · Apr 8, 2005

dont go lean. melting pistons is easy to do..

bhuff30 · Apr 8, 2005

connecting rods are the same as what the turbo engine has. You won't break one of those.
The double thick head gasket is a bad idea. Even if it does seal, it KILLS the quenched area and the quench area is very important for reducing detonation. You would be better off with the higher CR and pulling a little extra timing.
I am betting the first thing that will happen under light detonation will be a broken ring or 2. If the detonation is bad enough, you will lift the ring lands, and possibly shatter the pistons completely if you let it knock really hard. You will need to pull some timing. I hear that if you shave a little of the material off the magnetic trigger for the crank sensor, it effectivly retards the timing. I don't recall the exact number of degrees per inch removed, but it could be calculated or looked up.
You'll really have to look out for detonation. When I had the T3 on my 88 NA block, it ran fine for a while, but the vacume reference popped off the FPR. I never heard the detonation, but I ended up with broken rings in #2.

16vstang · Apr 8, 2005

Its a better Idear and cheaper in the long run to get some fordged pistons. Especialy if your going to use a hybrid. Ive seen the pistons and conecting rods on ebay used for like 50 bucks. You could just rering and hone. Hope all go's well!

mr_woodster · Apr 9, 2005

im with bhuff....ill count it down for you if you dont tune it right.

Blown headgasket (99%)
Cracked/broken ring's/lands and/or skirts(98%)
Broken rod (45%)

Forget the double headgasket, bhuff is running more compression than you with boost

SPEED FREAK · Apr 9, 2005

alright then ill forego the dual headgasket idea (worked awesome on my volkswagon turbo by the way). I don't care how much damage I do it's an experiment and there will be casualties, I am sure. But I have access to several more experimental engines so I am not woried about it. The main reason for the double headgasket idea was to lower the compression because the 92 motor I have has a DIS setup. I think I will just relocate the ignition trigger to compensate and retard the timing. I love budget builds and if this works out, honestly it will be a 500 dollar operation (including engine) without even so much as having to pull out your old 2.3 unless your all about pulling the motor to change your clutch. The total time spent is another fact that is important as I want to keep it in the 7 hour range. so that is my goal 500 bucks and seven hours for the turbo setup (once I find a car to put this engine into of course). I have worked with this setup before and it deffinetly took less time than that last time, with great success... So here goes I'll keep you posted as things progress.

realtripp · Apr 9, 2005

I read in an old yahoogroups Turbo2.3dp (I can't remember the exact name) that if you take the crank trigger and file off about 1/16 inch from the leading edge it is supposed to retard the timing by 14*.

SPEED FREAK · Apr 9, 2005

realtripp said:
I read in an old yahoogroups Turbo2.3dp (I can't remember the exact name) that if you take the crank trigger and file off about 1/16 inch from the leading edge it is supposed to retard the timing by 14*.

that doesnt make sense.. there are 360* in a circle so moving it 1/16 of an inch (effectively) does not equal a 14* shift.

140CILX-Coupe · Apr 9, 2005

yes it does, apparently you dont know muh about a crank trigger, it triggers when it hits a spot move it one way it retards or advances the timeing cause its moving the place where its designed to trigger at....its like moving your distributer around.

realtripp · Apr 9, 2005

140CILX-Coupe said:
yes it does, apparently you dont know muh about a crank trigger, it triggers when it hits a spot move it one way it retards or advances the timeing cause its moving the place where its designed to trigger at....its like moving your distributer around.

Only it is pretty permanent. I figure if you use the measurement of 1/16"=-14*BTDC you could probably, if you could be very precise, get different degrees of retardation and have several crank triggers around and swap those. You could probably even advance them if you had the means...

realtripp · Apr 9, 2005

SPEED FREAK said:
that doesnt make sense.. there are 360* in a circle so moving it 1/16 of an inch (effectively) does not equal a 14* shift.

Maybe the math is off a bit, if I had not lost all the info on my computer I would gladly find it for you.

bhuff30 · Apr 9, 2005

The trigger is what, 3inches from the center of the crankshaft? The circumference would be 18.8, which when divided by 360 degree of revolution is .050 inches per degree (1/16" = .0625") Sounds to me like the rule of thumb should be 1/16" for each degree of timing.
Using you're theory of 14* per 1/16", the sensor would be a scant 1/4" from the center of the crank. Probably isn't setup like that

realtripp · Apr 9, 2005

Never measured it but your superiority with this thing they call "mathematics" entertains me and provides a better answer than I am able to do.

itsgreat2bme · Apr 11, 2005

bhuff30 said:
The trigger is what, 3inches from the center of the crankshaft? The circumference would be 18.8, which when divided by 360 degree of revolution is .050 inches per degree (1/16" = .0625") Sounds to me like the rule of thumb should be 1/16" for each degree of timing.
Using you're theory of 14* per 1/16", the sensor would be a scant 1/4" from the center of the crank. Probably isn't setup like that

See now that's what I was thinking. BUT I had a magneto on the brain for some reason and I'll have to go measure the distances between triggering notches on the crank. I'll calculate the exact numbers for you. And FYI it is never a good idea to grind anything called an electric sensor anyway, because sensors are "sensitive". Just razin you... I'll go check it out tommorow.

OOPS this was actually "SPEED FREAK" who posted this.

2.3 turbo torture test :D

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