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2000 Ford Mustang GT No Crank No Start please help

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jowen216
  • Start date Start date Jun 5, 2024
J

Jowen216

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Jun 5, 2024
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Jun 5, 2024
#1
  • Jun 5, 2024
  • #1
I have a 2000 Ford Mustang GT (Automatic/Supercharged) with a No Crank No Start issue. Just to note the car hasn't been driven/started for roughly 15 years. It is still fairly low mileage (56,000) and has been stored where animals couldn't chew through any wire or move in.
Dash cluster
When I turn the key on the dash lights up and the odometer will display the correct mileage (I seen the mileage and i'm not getting the dashes ------). The car makes no noises (only the interior dinging) no clicking, no starter, no fuel pump. The theft light flashes quickly when the key is in the on position. However, the theft light will then turn off it doesn't stay on (maybe in 2-3 seconds). I know the car should still technically at least crank even with the theft (PATS) active, I was also able to just install two new key fob remotes with no issue. One last thing to note is I have previously installed a white face gauge overlay and spliced into the dimmer light (blue/white wire) and properly grounded it. One other strange thing is that the odometer blinks on and off and i'm hearing almost a sound that correlates with the pulsing odometer that almost sounds like a turn signal left on.
Engine
I replaced and gapped the plugs and fogged the engine. All connections looked good. I was able to manually turn over the engine with a breaker and very minimal pressure.
Fuel
I replaced the tank and replaced the pump with a DW300 unit. All connections and the unit install seemed to have went flawlessly. Also the inertia switch is depressed in the trunk.
Electric
I installed a brand new battery (headlights are very bright). I checked the majority of fuses inside the vehicle (everything related to PCM, Ignition, Fuel, ect) they look good. I checked the relays in the engine fuse box and actually bought new and they are good. I checked every other non relay with a check light and they all seem good. I removed the started relay and was able to jump the starter with a wire and the starter works and sounds fine.

I'm at a bit of a loss. I have an SCT x3 I plugged in trying to check for codes in the OBD2 port but it keeps erroring. A few things I need to check still are the CCRM, Ignition switch, and the starter wiring going to the ignition. Has anyone else experienced this issue and had a fix or any suggestions? Thank you so much in advance!
 
J

Jowen216

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Jun 5, 2024
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Jun 5, 2024
#2
  • Jun 5, 2024
  • #2
Sorry I forgot to mention I did add new fuel to the tank.
 
M

Mustang GT83

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Jun 5, 2024
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Southfield Michigan
Jun 5, 2024
#3
  • Jun 5, 2024
  • #3
Jowen216 said:
Sorry I forgot to mention I did add new fuel to the tank.
Click to expand...
Hello I'm new as well ,however have you checked for a ground wife from the engine to frame? They get rusted and will break.
 
J

Jowen216

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Jun 5, 2024
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Jun 6, 2024
#4
  • Jun 6, 2024
  • #4
No, I haven't followed the ground wires yet. Thank you great suggestion! I'll take a look and report back if or what is the fix incase someone else who's having the same issue stumbles upon this in the future.
 
M

Mustang GT83

Member
Jun 5, 2024
3
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Southfield Michigan
Jun 6, 2024
#5
  • Jun 6, 2024
  • #5
Surething if you look under the driver side fender we'll you should see a ground wire connected from the engine to the body.
 
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J

Jowen216

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Jun 5, 2024
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Jun 27, 2024
#6
  • Jun 27, 2024
  • #6
Sorry this is just an update. I'm only doing this incase someone else in the future comes across this post. I put in a new ignition switch and ccrm. The starting issue ended up being an aftermarket Code Alarm SureStart LX. It was easy to remove and I reconnected the ignition switch wire and now it will crank with the key. So it was the remote start causing my issues with the car not wanting to start. Now I just have to figure out the fuel pump. The harness (one that sits above the tank outside) had some pins that looked suspect. So I redid the harness making sure to connect everything correctly the way it was with the new rewired harness. I believe i'm supposed to be getting 12v (power to the pump) and 12v (to the control)? Either my multimeter is going haywire or something is wrong i'm getting power from 2 wires. But one is 4.6v and the other is 60v?!? The battery is still charged up 11.8v It will still crank with the key. Does anyone happen to have a wiring diagram for 2000 gt or have any idea why i'm getting such strange numbers? The inertia switch is down and I was getting power out of the one wire coming off it. Half way there! Thanks again for all your help!
 
J

Jowen216

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Jun 5, 2024
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PA
Jun 27, 2024
#7
  • Jun 27, 2024
  • #7
used two scanner tools both are saying no dtc codes are found. If I hold down the odometer button to put it in test mode after I turn the car on it's showing a code 9202 which is a "fuel sender open circuit". I'm not sure if some any of the wiring came lose in reinstalling the new fuel pump. My fuel gauge doesn't work. I put about 5 gallons of fresh gas after the new pump and tank replacement. I checked the wires again the red/black is getting 300v?!? and the brown/pink is getting 12v now. One of the wires from the inertia switch is also showing almost 300v (289v) to be exact.
 
J

Jowen216

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Jun 5, 2024
6
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PA
Jul 5, 2024
#8
  • Jul 5, 2024
  • #8
No idea why the voltage was showing so weird. The no start was caused by the after market remote starter. Cutting out the remote start and reattaching the ignition wire solved this. White/Red Strip wire back to it's original location fixed this issue. The second issue I had was a bad fuel sending unit Ithe housing that the fuel pump sits into. If your car is older I would recommend replacing this housing with the fuel pump. Car is fixed and running.
 
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