ok, i lied.
i can be civil.
everyone i know is a chevy boy. they are also secretly losers. they don't know it, but they are. only i have seen the light.
blue light that is.
i only tried the 5.4 3v to... let me be honest... try to get most of the power without the trouble getting it(5.4 4v) in. so in that sense it was lazy of me.
i realized, just before putting 6 grand into a screw charger, thet the charger 4.6 just wasn't going to get it done.
so what is just one step up, but not as hard a step as 5.4 4v? 5.4 3v. unfortunately for me, just as i spent too much to try to get the 4.6 up to standards, i will probably dump this(maybe it will make enough to beat the LS's). i'm just the sort to shut them up.
i totally understand that 200+ cc high taper ports with excellent velocity rule regardless of make. (remember the 6.1l hemi).
it would have been easy to get a WP block and stroke it to 340 and add twisted wedge heads on it and brag. (it WILL make as much or more than LS) i know i have spent enough already to do that. there are plenty of examples of that out there. what i don't find is guys doing the fab-it thing with mods. i don't mean a few here and there, i mean gazillion of us. we are trying futily to beat the best cylinder heads on the road(factory) with puny blown 4.6 2v's. there are millions of 4v mods out there(lincoln).
i can remember back in the 80's when we ruled the streets with our gt-40 iron headed beasts. i used to say to myself, " if i only had a 4v to put on it". well guys we do. why are we spending big bucks on 2v to still lose. 220 cfm is a joke today.
all these posts are designed to get ford boys off their asses and start beating the hell out of chevy's everywhere. we got to get the new guys to make the switch to 4v and stop wasting money on tiny valved, no flow pieces. you hear the testimonials for chevy. 310-320 rwhp. not really that bad. why are we struggling to pick up the scraps. we really have the advantage here, we just don't know it. we brag(me included) about 270rwhp and gear.
the motor i just put in my car is the real deal. not to toute it, but it needs to be the standard recommendation. it fits. and with some work on an upper intake, it fits with the stock hood. i know i have bitched about how hard it was, but that is because i had to figure out everything for myself.
now we know how to do it, so lets get on with it.
stock wiring with legthened wiring.
a) cam sensor moved to passenger side
b) all of the tangs on the passenger side cam pinwheel except tdc removed.
c) lengthened wiring for misc sensors:idle,injectors,egr, water temp.
use your injectors and MAF
i used the driver's side fuel rail from the 5.4 3von the passenger side, and used the 4.6 driver's side fuel rail in stock location.
extend hold down brackets for fuel rails with metal strips.
is you have 1999-2004 hood cut hole on underside of hood, but not in scoop to clear 4.62v elbow and TB. it only needs 1" more than stock on my 96.
get 4"x6"x1" thick aluminum plate and stencil hole from 3.5"x2.75" elbow hole. drill hole in the middle of the plate and use rewelded bandsaw to cut out inside of plate. cut edges of plate to a radius of 1/2". mark locations of holes for 5.4 3v intake to TB hole and drill them through. countersink to a depth 1/32" below surface. the bolt need to be hidden below for elbow to work. drill the holes(4) 8mm. drill through hole(4) for the 4.6 elbow.
to install the adapter preposition 8mm bolts from the bottom of the plate then attach the plate to the intake using factory screws. place elbow onto the 8mm screw/studs and attach locking nylon nuts.the bracket extension on the elbow needs to be removed(the arm that has the 5th bolt)
exhaust: cut out of mild 1/4" steel 8 plates the size on the 5.4 3v manifold ports. drill 2 holes in the location where the 5.4 3v has hole for the cylinder head to manifold bolts. drill 2 more holes where the 4.6 2v manifolds have their bolts. attach the manifolds to the plates 4 each with gaskets in them. then bolt them to the heads. this is for an easy installation. i loses some power i am sure.
flywheel-- 8 bolt cobra for manuals. for autos get 8 bolt truck 4.6 flexplate and drill holes to match 10.25 holes. or get 10.5" truck converter.
that's all.
i spent a mint to try a bunch of parts. as far as short runner intake... you really need to have skills to fool with it.
now... if you want real power from this beast.
purchase 80mm 86-93 mustang 302 TB. attach idle components to it. adapt it, and rock out.
cobras head 4" elbow works good. it will require a 4" cowl. (i just bought one)
as far as headers. 1 5/8" shorties properlt modified from a 4.6 3v will work. but i do mean modified. they have to be completely cut apart and tigged to work. you only have 1" of framrail to the exhaust ports. no space to jerk around.
the tubes are routed above and below the ports to clear the steering shaft. and on the passenger side they route downward to clear the frame rail. i can make them, but i am not sure anyone wants to pay for them. we are talking about 900 dollars for the hours and materials it takes. it takes about 10 hours per header to make them.
otherwise the motor plugs in normal.
cooling: i recommend stainless tubing with rubber ends. you can make them with bits and pieces(for now) or tig some tubing and make it look good. also the hydraulic reservoir needs longer tubing. the jurt is out on whether i need larger cooling system. i am going to try the factory oil cooler(bigger) and a couple of tranny coolers to see if that gets me the needed capacity. i am starting to wish a had a manual tranny.
i think i mentioned it all. let's go kick some LS butt.
btw. the valves have to be changes to handle above 5200 rpm's. or it comes apart(valvetrain).
ps. don't i get some other kind of description besides "official member" for all this? you can call me anything you like. my friends call me "critical bill". because my answers to questions will put you in critical condition.
