Just wondering. Have you checked all of the fuses in the engine bay and driver's kick panel?
How about the grounds around the radiator core support?
Has anything happened to this car of note?
The cluster displaying all dashes ("---") can be no power to the PCM or the PCM/cluster are not programmed to each other.
Pictures of your engine bay (point at disconnected connector) would be best. No guess work involved.
Crank-with no start check list:
www.allfordmustangs.com
/forums/4-6l-tech/336452-1997-mustang-wont-ignite.html#2984838
(copy paste ^^ together)
1996+ Crank with no start check list.
Check all fuses under the hood (BJB=panel F1) and driver's kick panel (CJB=Panel F2). Check the trunk mounted IFS cut off switch.
1999-2004 BJB CJB fuse panel layout:
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...1.html#2669271
Check the Grounds around the radiator core support. Are they clean and tight? Perform a through visual inspection of the visible ground connectors that are almost always black wires or black with a white stripe.
Pay special attention to the PCM/CCRM ground which is a large black wire with a white strip. From the radiator core support it travels around the battery to a round single pin connector. Confirm that this ground hasn't become disconnected. Note, very possible to accidentally disconnect during a battery replacement.
Check the battery and battery terminals. Are they clean and tight? Pay special attention to the battery negative as it's bad about splitting when over tightened. Is the battery fully charged?
It's always a good idea to confirm that the alternator is good. A bad alternator diode will cause excessive AC ripple that will "cause" other symptoms. Almost all auto parts stores will do alternator tests for free.
Bottom line. Today's cars simply will not run right without a strong battery and charging system. Do not cut corners here!
Confirm that the fuel pressure regulator/sensor intake vacuum reference line is connected and leak free. Inspect the line for raw gas. If any is found, repair/replace.
If you have access to an ODB2 scanner/reader, check to see if the PCM will "talk". If so, this will confirm that the PCM is getting power and functioning at some level. Note, IF the PCM is not getting power, this will CAUSE an apparent PATS problem.
For the 1999+ model year if the cluster is displaying all dashes ("------") this is a sure sign that either the PCM is not getting power, PCM has lost programming, or the PCM is bad. STOP and find out why.
Turn the key on but do not crank. Listen for the fuel pump to run for a few seconds. A helper may make this easier. If the fuel pump never runs, STOP and find out why.
Unlock the driver's door with the key. Use the remote key FOB to lock and unlock the car. On some systems, this will reset PATS after a battery disconnect.
Turn the key on but do not crank. Confirm that the theft light goes off after a 3 second "prove out". If not, STOP and find out why.
*NOTE: sometimes the PATS system can be affected by large metal objects on the key ring. When a possible PATS issues is suspected, try again with JUST the key. Even better try with a different key.
*NOTE: If PATS has been disabled via a custom tune, then the theft light will still blink as if tripped but the motor will start anyway.
Does the theft light blink or on solid during cranking? If so, STOP and find out why.
Hold the throttle half way open during cranking. What changes?
Disconnect the MAF electrical connector. Does it start now?
Will the motor start or "hit" on a small amount of starting fluid? Note be careful using starting fluid on a modern fuel injected car!!
thank you for all the help i appreciate it burns 
