2001 Mustang Gt Help!

Just wondering. Have you checked all of the fuses in the engine bay and driver's kick panel?

How about the grounds around the radiator core support?

Has anything happened to this car of note?

The cluster displaying all dashes ("---") can be no power to the PCM or the PCM/cluster are not programmed to each other.

Pictures of your engine bay (point at disconnected connector) would be best. No guess work involved.

Crank-with no start check list:
www.allfordmustangs.com

/forums/4-6l-tech/336452-1997-mustang-wont-ignite.html#2984838

(copy paste ^^ together)

1996+ Crank with no start check list.

Check all fuses under the hood (BJB=panel F1) and driver's kick panel (CJB=Panel F2). Check the trunk mounted IFS cut off switch.

1999-2004 BJB CJB fuse panel layout:
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...1.html#2669271

Check the Grounds around the radiator core support. Are they clean and tight? Perform a through visual inspection of the visible ground connectors that are almost always black wires or black with a white stripe.

Pay special attention to the PCM/CCRM ground which is a large black wire with a white strip. From the radiator core support it travels around the battery to a round single pin connector. Confirm that this ground hasn't become disconnected. Note, very possible to accidentally disconnect during a battery replacement.

Check the battery and battery terminals. Are they clean and tight? Pay special attention to the battery negative as it's bad about splitting when over tightened. Is the battery fully charged?

It's always a good idea to confirm that the alternator is good. A bad alternator diode will cause excessive AC ripple that will "cause" other symptoms. Almost all auto parts stores will do alternator tests for free.

Bottom line. Today's cars simply will not run right without a strong battery and charging system. Do not cut corners here!

Confirm that the fuel pressure regulator/sensor intake vacuum reference line is connected and leak free. Inspect the line for raw gas. If any is found, repair/replace.

If you have access to an ODB2 scanner/reader, check to see if the PCM will "talk". If so, this will confirm that the PCM is getting power and functioning at some level. Note, IF the PCM is not getting power, this will CAUSE an apparent PATS problem.

For the 1999+ model year if the cluster is displaying all dashes ("------") this is a sure sign that either the PCM is not getting power, PCM has lost programming, or the PCM is bad. STOP and find out why.

Turn the key on but do not crank. Listen for the fuel pump to run for a few seconds. A helper may make this easier. If the fuel pump never runs, STOP and find out why.

Unlock the driver's door with the key. Use the remote key FOB to lock and unlock the car. On some systems, this will reset PATS after a battery disconnect.

Turn the key on but do not crank. Confirm that the theft light goes off after a 3 second "prove out". If not, STOP and find out why.

*NOTE: sometimes the PATS system can be affected by large metal objects on the key ring. When a possible PATS issues is suspected, try again with JUST the key. Even better try with a different key.

*NOTE: If PATS has been disabled via a custom tune, then the theft light will still blink as if tripped but the motor will start anyway.

Does the theft light blink or on solid during cranking? If so, STOP and find out why.

Hold the throttle half way open during cranking. What changes?

Disconnect the MAF electrical connector. Does it start now?

Will the motor start or "hit" on a small amount of starting fluid? Note be careful using starting fluid on a modern fuel injected car!!

true01blueGT said:

My car wont start I'm thinking its a bad pcm or n o power to pcm. car turns wont start, it had -------- on odometer and electric fan turns on when key is on postion. and need to know what plug is connected next to the tps, its been unplugged and I don't know where it should be plugged in. thankz anything will help

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Hello hope this can help you out..: the -------means pcm readiness not complete. That happens when the brain looses programming sometimes can happen from the battery being disconnected for long periods of time. Or if the tuning hasn't been completed usually that goes away after a good charge and a long long drive. The plug you showed looks like the A/C power plug just from the shape but the plug next to the TPS is the IAC (idle air control) plug and that is not the same shape. the two stripped wires you have shown in the other picture are for the TPS (throttle position sensor.) So your easiest bet would either contact Ford for a new plug and solder it in place or if you want to splurge a little you can get a new wire harness that hasn't been doctored up. If you weren't getting any power to the PCM (powertrain control module) the motor wouldn't even turn. Fix those two and you'll most likely be cooking with fire., let me know what happens.

The connector goes to the AC clutch.

As for the ripped out wire. I seriously suspect they go to the CKP sensor. The CKP sensor wire colors are DB and GY.

OBTW, without a CKP sensor signal this motor will NEVER start. This looks like your smoking gun!

I also strongly suspect there are blown fuses.

true01blueGT said:

PLZ HELP me I just want to drive my car

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IMO you have been given a TON of help all ready.

FIX the wire that has been pulled out from the CKP sensor and you may be surprised what happens next.

Or go back to your Dads Friend's shop with the new information about the CKP sensor.

I can assure you that the motor will NEVER start as long as the CKP sensor wires are dangling.

<tough love follows>

true01blueGT said:

would the ckp sensor cause the pats to go off

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The force is weak on this one. Hope lost it is......
<Yoda speaking>

No. A failed/broken/rip out CKP sensor wire by itself will not CAUSE an anti-theft (PATS) failure.

There maybe other things wrong with your car. However, none of it will ever matter as the PCM doesn't have the slightest idea of where the crankshaft is. Hence the PCM will not know when to inject fuel or when to fire the spark plugs. The CKP sensor signal is perhaps THE most vital single sensor to the PCM.

Here's perhaps an "old school" way to think about it. What would happen if the points were removed from an old school distributor?

FWIIW, yes I do think there are other "things" wrong with your car. Mainly the cluster displaying all dashes ("----") and the cooling fan running at initial key on. Symptoms that can occur when there's no power to the PCM or the PCM is bad. Which is why there's a "crank with no start check list". However it just seems silly to start looking for a PATS issue when there's something so basic and obvious wrong that has to be fixed before any meaningful trouble shooting can begin.

Reminder that no power to the PCM will CAUSE an apparent PATS problem. But a failed PATS prove-out is a symptom of the real underlying problem.

Will be glad to help after the CKP wires are fixed and the check lists already given have been done and the results posted. Now it's time to get underneath your car and look up between the AC compressor and the oil pan and locate the CKP sensor.