2002 Mustang Transmission Questions: NEED HELP

[Zseme39]

Hi, this is Zseme39 and I have a few questions about mods I would like to perform to a 2002 Mustang GT that have to do with its 4R70W Automatic Transmission as well as its 4.6L V8.

1) I want to use this transmission because sometimes I just want a leisure drive, but then again, sometimes I want to get on the gas or take it to the track. What type of Valve Body would I want to use with a rebuilt Stage 2 4R70W transmission to ensure that in "D"rive, it performs as a standard transmission, but allows me to put it in "1"st and shift on my own through "2"nd, "3"rd, and on to "4"th (as I will be using an aftermarket TCI auto shift lever)? Any suggestions would be awesome and any actual product suggestions would be even better . Suggestions of which Shifter would also be cool because I am unsure of which would be best, although I am looking at the FastGate or a way to make Paddles work.

2) Since this transmission is rated for 650+ HP, what kind of mods would be best to perform to the 4.6 without cracking the block? (bolt ons preferred, and would really like to mount a Twin Screw on, brand and type would be awesome )

3) If I went the PaddleShift route, how would I get it to work where I can put the car in "D"rive and let it shift as a normal automatic (on its own), but then shift it so I could control the transmission with the Paddles? Would I need a special Valve Body or special shift lever? If so, what would they be and where could I get them?

4) Would this all be a good idea or would it be better to swap SN-197 V8 in as well as the 5R55S transmission with the SelectShift feature instead of working these in?

I know it's a lot to ask, but any information on any of these Questions would be awesome. If people answer separate questions, I can piece it all together. The more the merrier . I've been wondering this and I just got lost so I'm turning to what I should've in the beginning.
THANK YOU.
Zseme39

 

[40oz]

No offense, but if you want to control shifting yourself get a manual. If you are just leisurely driving there is no reason to be opposed to a stick. If you want to control when the trans shifts get a manual. If you want floppy paddles on the steering column to make you think you are actually driving buy a car that has them. The only reason to get paddle shifters is if you have never learned to drive a stick and just want to pretend to be a "racecar driver" once in a while. Ignoring the fact that actual "racecar drivers" know how to drive a stick.

If you want to optimize your car for the 1/4 mile, your auto is a good starting point. The people who rebuilt your trans should have good answers for your questions.

 

[Three50won]

Hi, this is Zseme39 and I have a few questions about mods I would like to perform to a 2002 Mustang GT that have to do with its 4R70W Automatic Transmission as well as its 4.6L V8.

1) I want to use this transmission because sometimes I just want a leisure drive, but then again, sometimes I want to get on the gas or take it to the track. What type of Valve Body would I want to use with a rebuilt Stage 2 4R70W transmission to ensure that in "D"rive, it performs as a standard transmission, but allows me to put it in "1"st and shift on my own through "2"nd, "3"rd, and on to "4"th (as I will be using an aftermarket TCI auto shift lever)? Any suggestions would be awesome and any actual product suggestions would be even better . Suggestions of which Shifter would also be cool because I am unsure of which would be best, although I am looking at the FastGate or a way to make Paddles work.

2) Since this transmission is rated for 650+ HP, what kind of mods would be best to perform to the 4.6 without cracking the block? (bolt ons preferred, and would really like to mount a Twin Screw on, brand and type would be awesome )

3) If I went the PaddleShift route, how would I get it to work where I can put the car in "D"rive and let it shift as a normal automatic (on its own), but then shift it so I could control the transmission with the Paddles? Would I need a special Valve Body or special shift lever? If so, what would they be and where could I get them?

4) Would this all be a good idea or would it be better to swap SN-197 V8 in as well as the 5R55S transmission with the SelectShift feature instead of working these in?

I know it's a lot to ask, but any information on any of these Questions would be awesome. If people answer separate questions, I can piece it all together. The more the merrier . I've been wondering this and I just got lost so I'm turning to what I should've in the beginning.
THANK YOU.
Zseme39

1) If you get a manual valve body then you're gonna be stuck manually shifting the car ALL the time. You need either an aftermarket valve body that will retain the auto (it will also allow you to manual shift at your discretion), or get an upgrade kit from some of the performance transmission companies, or get a Transgo Transpak. I got the Transpak and I had a trans shop upgrade all the internals on my 03 GT.

2) I wouldn't worry about cracking the block. Modular blocks are extremely strong because they are iron and are solid through out. And modular cranks also are pretty durable. The rods and pistons are the weak link. I'd go with H-Beam rods and forged pistons and a steel 8-bolt crank (might as well).

3) Paddle shifter? Like on the steering wheel? I don't know if that is worthwhile.

4) For all the headache of a swap, you might as well just sell your New Edge and buy a S-197. I've seen some nice 05 GTs go for around 15Gs. And even a few 08 GTs going for around 18Gs.

 

[Three50won]

No offense, but if you want to control shifting yourself get a manual. If you are just leisurely driving there is no reason to be opposed to a stick. If you want to control when the trans shifts get a manual. If you want floppy paddles on the steering column to make you think you are actually driving buy a car that has them. The only reason to get paddle shifters is if you have never lerned to drive a stick and just want to pretend to be a "racecar driver" once in a while. Ignoring the fact that actual "racecar drivers" know how to drive a stick.

If you want to optimize your car for the 1/4 mile, your auto is a good starting point. The people who rebuilt your trans should have good answers for your questions.

I agree...I NEVER seen any logical use for shifters on the steering wheel. If anything I feel it takes away from the feel and control of the car. Especially when going around corners or making turns. You can't use them when you're turning the wheel. I have 2 automatics (a 95 GT and an 03 GT), and I power shift during spirited runs. Otherwise I keep it in drive and let it do its job.

With that said tho, I think he was asking about a set-up that will modify his trans while still retaining the ability to either manually power shift the car or leave it in drive. In which case all he needs is an upgraded valve body.

 

[Zseme39]

Thanks Three50, you got what I mean, do you know anywhere that I could get a valve body to work with this? Like what do you run? and I know about the paddles, they would've been a last resort. I have a couple friends with them and I know what you mean about not feeling you're really driving, but it beats standard auto.

And to 40oz, I understand what you're saying but trying to eat breakfast (running late for work) while keeping good speed to attempt to make it on time is very difficult on a manual without spilling everywhere lol.
I like manual, but more so for track days etc, sometimes I just like to be lazy. lol especially if I'm tired.
Oh, and I know a lot of "race car drivers". I live near Road America and go there very often, and since some of my family works with the crews and drivers, I know some of them as well.

 

[Zseme39]

Oh and Three50, about the block, if I go with the Hbeams, forged pistons, and the 8-bolt, I won't have to worry too much about what I throw on the engine? (Supercharger, LowFlows, etc.?) I'm also wondering about ECU's since they came to mind last night, what I should run unless the stock is pretty good. And my biggest question, what kinds of upgrades do I need to worry about even possibly cracking the Block. I want to do as much as I can without getting TOO far into the block itself (ignition, fuel system, cooling, intercooler if I go super, intake, exhaust, etc.) Like I said before, anything will help. Oh and what should I do about the Suspension, I was thinking just new struts, and maybe about an inch of lowering springs, maybe new coil overs in general, or could I slide with JUST the lowering springs? I know I ask a lot of questions, but I want to ask people who know. I installed a new stereo and although it said "just plug and play" for 99-04 mustangs, yeah it wasn't so easy, after 4 different harnesses and messing with the settings for 2 hours, It finally worked

 

[Zseme39]

Almost forgot. THANKS. legit.

 

[Three50won]

Zseme39, Sumit Racing and other performance parts stores should be able to steer you in the right direction for the valve body you need. I'd also say forget about paddles, unless they come stock on the car. The cost of the modification plus the fact that they have no benefit is an utter waste...especially since you can spend the money on upgrades that are worthwhile.

About the internals, most H-Beam rods can handle between 700 to a little over 1,000 hp. And forged pistons will handle around the same. And as long as there is no detonation then the pistons will be fine. The ECU will merely need to be tuned. You can keep the stock ECU and have the car tuned when you get a significant amount of modifications.

The block is very durable, like I said earlier. But if it becomes a worry to you then you can get a main girdle and/or a valley brace. There was a company that was making a main girdle that also acted as a windage tray...I think it was Canton but not too sure. Look into that.

As far as actual mods goes you have to ask yourself how much money you're willing to spend and what kind of numbers you're looking for. This hobby gets expensive very quick and you're never gonna get the money back out of it. So what are your goals?

Others will have to give you advice on the suspension. I'd say to get some lowering springs and some stiffer struts and shocks. Others might advise you to do a coil-over and tubular K-member. But like I said, it all depends on how much money you're able to spend.