2003 Mustang gt. Clutch overheating.

2003 mustang gt modded

Active Member
Sep 11, 2023
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Ok, Hi, So I have Bbk long tubes, they are creating too much heat. I have times where the clutch would get stiffer, and it starts to grab very harshly.

The car is very much modded. I don’t know all the mods, but I suspect a mild cam and light weight flywheel.

I did wrap it with fiberglass stuff what ever it is called. It just gave me an added 20 min of extra ride time before it started to overheat.

I was at a stop light for about 6 min and clutch again started to act funny.


Anyone had this issue? Thx..

Btw it’s ram racing clutch.
 
Any way you can route the clutch cable slightly differently to move it further away from the LTs?

How is the condition of the clutch cable otherwise? Is it old?
 
Well, previous owner changed the clutch and sold me the car. So I’m suspecting he had same problem and clutch failed on him.

Cable is new, good quality name brand. With heat protection sleeve.

I don’t think it’s the cable, I think it’s the clutch it self getting hot. Where the bell housing is there is poor air circulation.

and car has weird tune , I’m getting 35 deg timing at low rpm 1500-2500 which is making it run hotter, I even heard low speed pinging.
 
The story is that he changed the clutch, and the clutch went out on him, he said he couldn’t depress the clutch.

His mechanic told him that it was clutch fork. Mech agreed to do the job again for free and the car sat at the shop for 2 years untill the job was done.
 
I would pull the transmission and look for galling at the bearing retainer and Throw-Out-Bearing (TOB).

If the bearing retainer is aluminum, swap it out for a steel one.

Outside of that, I would also suspect the clutch cable as it is the most common culprit for a stiff clutch. All clutch cables are [not] created equally.
 
I would pull the transmission and look for galling at the bearing retainer and Throw-Out-Bearing (TOB).

If the bearing retainer is aluminum, swap it out for a steel one.

Outside of that, I would also suspect the clutch cable as it is the most common culprit for a stiff clutch. All clutch cables are [not] created equally.
Thanks for recommendation. I think I might have found problem. Supercharger isn’t installed correctly. It’s breathing hot air, colling fan is partially blocked by intercoller piping. Racing Procharger intercooler in descreasing 60% of air flow to radiator . I already fixed all of those problems, just need to do some test driving.
 
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Ok, Hi, So I have Bbk long tubes, they are creating too much heat. I have times where the clutch would get stiffer, and it starts to grab very harshly.

The car is very much modded. I don’t know all the mods, but I suspect a mild cam and light weight flywheel.

I did wrap it with fiberglass stuff what ever it is called. It just gave me an added 20 min of extra ride time before it started to overheat.

I was at a stop light for about 6 min and clutch again started to act funny.


Anyone had this issue? Thx..
Btw it’s ram racing clutch. https://trinityrental.com/rent-bmw/bmw-m8-competition
Sounds like heat soak for sure. Long tubes + clutch line getting cooked will do that, and wrap only buys you a little time. I’d look at shielding or relocating the clutch line - seen that fix it for a lot of people.
 
Thanks for suggestion. I think it’s more the clutch temps and flywheel temps then the cable.

I kinda feel it in the clutch. Because once things are super hot, the clutch doesn’t want to ride at all, it just wants to grip. And it really feels like the clutch is going to go out. It’s like 2 hot surfaces have more friction. Could be cable, not a cable expert. That clutch cable isn’t supposed to be there in first place. Ford tried to economize $140 bucks on each mustang by downgrading to 1966 VW technology?
 
Sry for my messy car, but one of the pictures you can see that insulation is bubbling. Right by the gas pedal.

The cable is almost touching the header. But I still don’t think it’s the cable but may be wrong.
 

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my previous 5.0 was really heating up my transmission, and it was mostly stock, reason for it was heavy traffic, hot Miami temperatures. The metal of shifter was really hot, the chassis around transmission was getting hot, my clutch throw out bearing failed with driving on highway, I wasn’t even shifting and it failed, the Temps were so high, the road was probably 150 deg.


With current 2003 stand, trans isn’t getting hot because most of heat gets expelled from long tubes, and I really suspect the bell housing getting really hot. The idea is that theoretically engine and trans suppost to help bellhousing from getting hot it will still get to high temp, I suspect 300 deg. Its called localized heating, like a cooking pan that 250 deg on bottom and on sides it’s 200 deg.
 
This intercooler is blocking 60% of all air flow. So that means really small amount of air flowing through the engine, and the headers are too close to the bellhousing and chassis.

Where does the heat go when you get stuck in traffic? If it was a truck with ample amount of space this wouldn’t be an issue. When the headers are really hot and are 1” from bell housing then clutch will get hot through radiating heat through bell housing.
 

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