2004 Convertible GT Auto (1st trip to drag strip)

uhoh5.0

Founding Member
Mar 14, 2002
354
0
17
Montgomery, AL
Ran my 2004 GT convertible with auto trans in the quarter last night. I had six runs all @ 15.00 I was a little disappointed with that time (alot actually), but the car has zero mods except for a drop in K&N and removed air silencer. Also, it has the factory mach 1000 audio system with two 10 inch woofers and 4 amps in the trunk plus leather, factory radials and me (215lbs :D )

Just wondered what everyone thought and what it would take to be a solid 13.8 car? Let me know what you think!

Also, my best 60 foot was 2.2 and best reaction was .157 Fifteen flat is slow, but every run was consistent. I also tried to shift a couple of times my self but no better luck.
 
Congrats on your first run. It gets better from here. Don't bother manually shifting your 4-spd auto. It's an electronically controlled transmission. It will shift at the pre-programmed shift points if it's in D. Get a tuner if you want to change the shift points. It will also firm up those shift so you don't waste power with those stock granny shifts. Gears and exhaust will be your finish up your top 3.
 
If it was hot and humid, then thats what killed your times.
I went to the track last weekend and it was 85 degrees and 100% humidity:eek: . It destroyed my times and everyone else's. My car is a solid 13.8 car on blad street tired, but the humidity and heat killed power and traction even on my new tires
 
Lots of room for improvement...
My 2000 auto convertible went as low as 14.1@97 (@ ~1500ft air density) on many many passes, with the only mod being weld-in flowmaster mufflers. That was even with the top down..

What was the air density?
Use this to find the barometric pressure at the time you raced:

http://www.wunderground.com
Enter your zipcode, and scroll down to "History And Almanac". It will tell you the conditions for any time.



http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcda.htm
Then use this calculator to find out your Air Density in feet. ie. it will tell you that you were basically racing at 3000ft elevation conditions, than just knowing "500ft elevation with crap conditions".



You can then use this NHRA elevation adjustment table to determine your time with better conditions:
http://www.smokemup.com/auto_math/nhra_correction_factors.php
 
007 said:
4.10s and a chip/tuner will completely change your car. Do those. Not 3.73s - get 4.10s.

+1

Must do mods:
Full length sub-frame connectors, 4.10 gears, transmission cooler, jerry mod, full exhaust, suspension, predator/sct tuner..

The jerry mod will wake your car up so much. I highly recommend it. Your car will snap into gear crisp and firm.
 
The J-Mod won't do much on an 04 Tranny though as most of it is already done. I strongly suggest a tuner, and with a tuner, no WOT shifts into OD or you will break that tranny very quickly. I recommend 4.30's with your car.
 
Anywhere from mid 15's to mid 14's is the norm for stock Stangs here during the hot and humid summer months. The fact that you have a vert and the added weight from the sound system isn't helping you either. If I had a vert I would keep it stock maybe put some 373 gears and Nitrous wet kit on for special occasions:D That would put you comfortably in the low 13's.
 
White Stang said:
13.49 and faster and you need a Rollbar



reaaaly? My track told me 11.5 lol.. but then again they are real slack on the rules other than helmet and fluids on the track.. they bust balls on that.


and as for the topic... that isnt bad considering the auto-heat and first trip. Gears are gonna make the car wake up!!!

I went 14.1 bone stock in my 5sp. but in so-so weather.:nice:
 
Well, this is my plan:

I've already ordered the C&L upper inlet pipe (gotta start somewhere:nice: )

4.10s (had them in my last car and really made a HUGE difference!)
Predator Tuner (to firm up tranny, timing, shift points, etc.)
UPR X-Pipe
Weld in flowmasters
Nitto 555 drag radials (the stock tires start to break loose at about 1800rpms)
And to round things out, the larger K&N with heatshield from C&L


What are your predictions for the 1/4 mile?

I'm going to guess... 13.8 (hopefully) in good weather???
 
uhoh5.0 said:
Well, this is my plan:

I've already ordered the C&L upper inlet pipe (gotta start somewhere:nice: )

4.10s (had them in my last car and really made a HUGE difference!)
Predator Tuner (to firm up tranny, timing, shift points, etc.)
UPR X-Pipe
Weld in flowmasters
Nitto 555 drag radials (the stock tires start to break loose at about 1800rpms)
And to round things out, the larger K&N with heatshield from C&L


What are your predictions for the 1/4 mile?

I'm going to guess... 13.8 (hopefully) in good weather???
its possible, but what im sure of is that the car will sound damn good. I had flows and an x-pipe on my old stang :nice:
 
uhoh5.0 said:
Well, this is my plan:

I've already ordered the C&L upper inlet pipe (gotta start somewhere:nice: )

4.10s (had them in my last car and really made a HUGE difference!)
Predator Tuner (to firm up tranny, timing, shift points, etc.)
UPR X-Pipe
Weld in flowmasters
Nitto 555 drag radials (the stock tires start to break loose at about 1800rpms)
And to round things out, the larger K&N with heatshield from C&L


What are your predictions for the 1/4 mile?

I'm going to guess... 13.8 (hopefully) in good weather???


Make sure you run with a near empty tank and maybe bring along a 5 gallon jug with you to have a friend watch. Oh yeah, and dont forget to turn off your traction control
 
triggz said:
Lots of room for improvement...
My 2000 auto convertible went as low as 14.1@97 (@ ~1500ft air density) on many many passes, with the only mod being weld-in flowmaster mufflers. That was even with the top down..

What was the air density?
Use this to find the barometric pressure at the time you raced:

http://www.wunderground.com
Enter your zipcode, and scroll down to "History And Almanac". It will tell you the conditions for any time.



http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcda.htm
Then use this calculator to find out your Air Density in feet. ie. it will tell you that you were basically racing at 3000ft elevation conditions, than just knowing "500ft elevation with crap conditions".



You can then use this NHRA elevation adjustment table to determine your time with better conditions:
http://www.smokemup.com/auto_math/nhra_correction_factors.php
Hey bro, where did you run with the top down? I have been to 5 different tracks and all of them said the top has to be up. 3 of them said NHRA rules.