2004 Convertible GT Auto (1st trip to drag strip)

Your planned list of mods is very similar what I have. My car is an auto hardtop & runs 13.9 @ 99mph on worn out stock goodyears. With drag radials, you should do better than 13.8.

uhoh5.0 said:

Well, this is my plan:

I've already ordered the C&L upper inlet pipe (gotta start somewhere )

4.10s (had them in my last car and really made a HUGE difference!)
Predator Tuner (to firm up tranny, timing, shift points, etc.)
UPR X-Pipe
Weld in flowmasters
Nitto 555 drag radials (the stock tires start to break loose at about 1800rpms)
And to round things out, the larger K&N with heatshield from C&L


What are your predictions for the 1/4 mile?

I'm going to guess... 13.8 (hopefully) in good weather???

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TGJ said:

The J-Mod won't do much on an 04 Tranny though as most of it is already done. I strongly suggest a tuner, and with a tuner, no WOT shifts into OD or you will break that tranny very quickly. I recommend 4.30's with your car.

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Interesting....I have the tuner mods done to my 04 auto tranny with a tranny cooler and it shifts really quick and hard, I was always planning the j-mod. So, alot of the jmods have been done? please explain, so I don't need it, will my tranny hold up to 450 rwtq?

uhoh5.0... check your PM's.

back_in_black said:

Interesting....I have the tuner mods done to my 04 auto tranny with a tranny cooler and it shifts really quick and hard, I was always planning the j-mod. So, alot of the jmods have been done? please explain, so I don't need it, will my tranny hold up to 450 rwtq?

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The J-Mod is updated Ford parts already in the newer transmissions. Most of the holes that need to be drilled are already the size or larger in the newer transmissions. I still recommend that you do the J-Mod things that your transmission doesn't have, what those things are depends on the year of 4R70W.

TGJ said:

The J-Mod is updated Ford parts already in the newer transmissions. Most of the holes that need to be drilled are already the size or larger in the newer transmissions. I still recommend that you do the J-Mod things that your transmission doesn't have, what those things are depends on the year of 4R70W.

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thanks for the info

Check my sig for what I've done and the results. Gears and the off road x-pipe made the biggest gains. The Exhaust side is where the biggest power gains are made, intake side gains are marginal. You might want to shed some pounds from your car though. I'm the only 99+ Mustang running an auto at the track I run at,and I've pissed off a lot of guys with sticks, running street tires.

TGJ said:

The J-Mod is updated Ford parts already in the newer transmissions. Most of the holes that need to be drilled are already the size or larger in the newer transmissions. I still recommend that you do the J-Mod things that your transmission doesn't have, what those things are depends on the year of 4R70W.

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The updating of parts only applies to 98/older trannys. You are still making several modifications regardless of the year. I have a friend with an 04 Auto and it shifts nothing at all like mine. Mine will bark OD at the track if I forget to turn it off for the pass..

You are also removing the 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator springs, which normally soften the 'punch' of changing gears.. and increasing fill-hole sizes beyond factory spec regardless of year model..

For the cost of drill bits and fluid (for a seasoned mechanic), its an awesome bang-for-buck mod.

cronin49 said:

Hey bro, where did you run with the top down? I have been to 5 different tracks and all of them said the top has to be up. 3 of them said NHRA rules.

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Alabama International Dragway (Steele, AL). They lost their NHRA certification years ago, so they really dont give a **** about anything. They don't do tech inspections, license checks, and hardly ever even check for a seatbelt. So, I have a quarter mile pass where the car number at the top says "NO TOP".

uhoh5.0 said:

Ran my 2004 GT convertible with auto trans in the quarter last night. I had six runs all @ 15.00 I was a little disappointed with that time (alot actually), but the car has zero mods except for a drop in K&N and removed air silencer. Also, it has the factory mach 1000 audio system with two 10 inch woofers and 4 amps in the trunk plus leather, factory radials and me (215lbs )

Just wondered what everyone thought and what it would take to be a solid 13.8 car? Let me know what you think!

Also, my best 60 foot was 2.2 and best reaction was .157 Fifteen flat is slow, but every run was consistent. I also tried to shift a couple of times my self but no better luck.

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Just keep practicing man it'll get better. Don't try to shift yourself you could mess something. You'd be better off getting a tuner to firm up the shifts. I have a bone stock '02 GT auto conv. and I've ran a best of 14.5 at 98 so far. I didn't take air outta the tires or do any weight reduction. I think the extra weight from the Mach 1000 system and weather hurt you. I have the factory Mach 460 system.

P.S. Before you launch hold your left foot on the brake and rev to in between 1000-1500 rpm's. When the light hits the second yellow launch and you'll see a difference. By just pre-loading my suspension for the launch I knocked a few tenths off my time.

Just be patient and focus on the things that will help you out of the hole! 4.10's, 3200 stall, catback and plenum/tb combo should put you at mid 13.00! My car has all this and more and runs 12.9's at 104mph.....been wanting to take a trip to NMB track....how is it out there on fri nights? Oh and heres my set up!

"ED"

ENGINE:
- STOCK 4.6L SOHC MOTOR
- AFM 4" POWER PIPE/ K&N FILTER
- BBK 75MM THROTTLE BODY
- BBK UNDERDRIVE PULLEYS
- BBK 1 5/8 LONG TUBE CERAMIC HEADERS
- C&L 85MM MASS AIR CALIBRATED FOR 24LBS INJECTORS
- SVT 24LB INJECTORS
- CUSTOM SCT DYNO TUNE (264RWHP/304RWTQ)
- MEIZURE ELECTRIC WATER PUMP
- PLASMA BOOSTER IGNITION
- ACCUFAB PLENUM
- 1/2IN PHANOLIC INTAKE SPACER
- 2.5IN EXHAUST WITH FLOWMASTER AND CUSTOM X-PIPE
- AEM'S WIDEBAND UEGO CONTROLLER
- BBK TIMING ADJUSTER
- STEEDA CATCH CAN
- 180 DEG POWER STAT
- STEEDA 190LPH FUEL PUMP (BOSH)
- STEEDA HIGH FLOW FUEL FILTER

DRIVETRAIN:
- AODE 4R70W TRANSMISSION
- TRANSGO SHIFT KIT
- 410 GEARS
- 3200 PI TORQUE CONVERTER
- RACE CONCEPTS SLOTTED/DRILLED ROTORS
- HAWK PERFORMANCE BRAKE PADS
- FRPP ALUMINUM DRIVE SHAFT
- FRPP FRONT C SPRINGS
- STEEDA ALUMINUM LCA’S

INTERIOR:
- CUSTOM PAINTED INSERTS
- YMR REAR SEAT DELETE KIT
- X2C FRONT RACING SEATS

EXTERIOR:
- EAGLE 17X9 ALUMINUM RIMS
- MT DR'S (27540R17 OUT BACK)
- FUTURA (24540R17 UP FRONT)

FUTURE MODS:
- VT STAGE II CAMS
- COBRA R HOOD