2005 Mustang Clutch Problems

Dirtyray

New Member
Mar 18, 2020
7
0
1
Sacramento
My first post and I have a 2005 Mustang manual trans. My clutch pedal broke and I removed it so I could fix it .
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Mine had a similar issue. Before I fixed it I had clutch pressure and was able to put the car in gear however due to the broken clutch pedal it was difficult. Now that I fixed and replaced the clutch I have no clutch pedal pressure. I read that I needed to possibly bleed the clutch line and I did the vacuum bleed, the gravity bleed, and even pumped the clutch pedal until it felt like my was going to fall off. I still have no pressure. The only thing I changed was taking the clutch pedal out so I could fix it and put it back in. I am truly scratching my head and can't figure out where I am going wrong. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
 
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I am sorry to hear that you have a Hydraulic Clutch. Lets back up and tackle this in steps. This is so the guys who have similar year Stangs can chime in where I cant because of it being Hydraulic.

  1. Please explain why the clutch pedal was broken, where it was broken, and how you fixed that.
  2. Please explain "HOW" you "Bled" the Hydraulic Clutch System in a little more detail.
  3. If you have a picture of the broken items please post them
  4. If I am reading this correctly, you replaced the broken item and before bleeding anything, you tested it out and there was no pressure at the pedal.
  5. Just to cover bases, you DID NOT get into the transmission at all or replaced the Clutch Etc correct?
Also:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HkmFh7hxico
 
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Thank you for your reply! The area that broke is similar to the part circled in red in the photo. I had that piece welded back together. I just bought the car not knowing it had that issue. Went to drive it up on the trailer so I could tow it home and I had a little clutch. I was able to put it on and take it off the trailer with a small bit of difficulty due to the broken piece. When I got the car home I took the clutch pedal out and had he broken piece welded. (Sorry I didn't take pictures). When I reinstalled the clutch pedal I pushed the clutch to the floor and nothing happened. I then thought I might have had to bleed the clutch so I looked on here and followed the directions you all had on how to bleed it using a vacuum pump and how to do the gravity bleed by putting the car on a jack. Still nothing. knowing it was a hydraulic clutch I pumped the clutch soany times (my leg felt as if it would fall off. Even had the wife do it too). I did not replace the clutch itself or the transmission. Just the pedal. I hope this helps you some because I am really at a loss. Thanks again for all your help!
 
Since this is a "New to you" Mustang. The issue may be the actual clutch plate. With that pedal being broken and you not knowing the true history, that clutch may be burnt out.

Obviously it starts so the clutch pedal/clutch is engaging. If it is shifting into all gears and the car wont roll while in any gear that should mean the clutch itself is not worn out. I am speaking now from what I just went through after burning out a $400 clutch kit in 62 miles. I have the cable system so the Hydraulic portion hopefully will be addressed by another member who has that system.
 
Since this is a "New to you" Mustang. The issue may be the actual clutch plate. With that pedal being broken and you not knowing the true history, that clutch may be burnt out.

Obviously it starts so the clutch pedal/clutch is engaging. If it is shifting into all gears and the car wont roll while in any gear that should mean the clutch itself is not worn out. I am speaking now from what I just went through after burning out a $400 clutch kit in 62 miles. I have the cable system so the Hydraulic portion hopefully will be addressed by another member who has that system.
The pivot point on the clutch was broken I had to drain the hydraulic line when I fixed the clutch. I added hydraulic fluid and bled the clutch. Now I have no hydraulic pressure when I did before and it was able to drive up on the trailer. So I think it's a hydraulic issue.
 
How did you vacuum bleed the clutch? I just did a whole clutch job including replacing the clutch master cylinder, I was able to get the system bled in about 10 minutes with a vacuum bleeder.
I used a mityvac, that I bought at harbor freight, in an attempt to bleed the clutch. But since being under "shelter in place" haven't really been able to do any tests to see if there are any issues that would stop me from having hydraulic pressure. So I am really at a loss. Any help you could offer would be appreciated.
 
OK. Well, that's how I did it and had no issues at all. Maybe try replacing the clutch master cylinder?

edit: Just happened to think, were you getting 20" of vacuum on the bleeder?
Yeah I was getting 20 of vacuum on the bleeder. I bought a new master but it has to be shipped in to my local parts store. Anything I need to know about putting it in?
 
Yeah it's a pain in the ass...I pulled out the pedal assembly to do mine because I thought you couldn't access the rear bolt but it turns out you can from inside the car. You pretty much have to pull the driver's seat and lay on your back to work on it.

I took these pics of the assembly out of the car. The master cylinder bolts take a 5mm allen bit, the rear bolt has a threaded insert but the front one has a 10mm locknut on it. No idea why they did it this way. I'd say either way of doing it is probably equally difficult. The pedal assembly is only held in by 4 nuts (on the back of the brake booster) and 2 bolts up under the dash, with about 5 sensors to remove. I used the opportunity while the assembly was out to lube the clutch pedal pivot because mine always squeaked when I pushed in the clutch.

Also there is a wire clip in the end of the master cylinder where the clutch line attaches. You have to remove it to remove the clutch line (easiest done with a pick) and be careful not to lose it. The new master cylinder comes with a new one but it's easy to drop it when you're trying to put it back in after you reinstall the clutch line.

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Thanks for the instructions! I replaced the master cylinder today and pumped the clutch a few times and SUCCESS! I have a clutch. I took it and test drove it only to find out I didn't have second gear. All it does is grind...so now I need to pull the tranny. But hey I will take the victory! Thanks everyone for all your help!
 
Glad to hear that you have a success. You cant imagine what I went through with my clutch as I getting all of my stuff back together. Now, find a pull-a-part and get a different transmission and swap it in there. Fun Times we live in man
 
Glad to hear that worked! I wasn't even sure. Sucks that you don't have second gear...well, removing the transmission isn't enormously difficult, just a pain, as is everything. You'll probably want to remove the intake manifold to access the top two bellhousing bolts, I know I did...the rest you can get from under the car.
 
Thanks for the instructions! I replaced the master cylinder today and pumped the clutch a few times and SUCCESS! I have a clutch. I took it and test drove it only to find out I didn't have second gear. All it does is grind...so now I need to pull the tranny. But hey I will take the victory! Thanks everyone for all your help!

Just have your existing tranny rebuilt with new 2nd gear synchros.