240hp/265tq. THIS IS BS!!!

95Vert · Jan 29, 2006

I dynoed my car this weekend and these were the numbers. I haven't been able to scan the chart but if I find someone, I will. My focking rev limiter killed it at 5400rpms, as the line was still climbing. That and my damn AODE are killing my car. My air to fuel ratio was around 14-15, don't know what the hell that means but the guy said it was perfect. Am I being reasonable being disappointed or not? I mean, look at my mods. They're not aluminum head but they're still good heads, where am I going wrong?

Grn92LX · Jan 29, 2006

14-15:1 a/f @ WOT ain't perfect dude. Thats LEAN! It should be around 12.8-13.2 at WOT for a n/a car. Not too bad considering you have an aode and a big lean issue. Try bumping the fuel pressure, it might help. Clean the MAF elements too with rubbing alcohol on a Qtip. Whats your timing at? 14-16* should be good but be careful since its lean.

95Vert · Jan 29, 2006

It's lean!!! SOB, no wonder no one likes these MOFO's. I raised it from 39 w/o vacuum to 41psi. Is that enough? I don't want to over do it and bust one of my stock inj. I guess I really need to get the 24lbers right? My timing is at 14*. They said something about it being at 18* with the spout on.

roached1 · Jan 29, 2006

I would go to 24# injectors and a good tune if you havn't already. may make a big difference.

Zero Signal · Jan 29, 2006

Why is your rev limiter at 5400?

95Vert · Jan 29, 2006

I guess that's where the damn factory put it. I've heard that's it's supposed to be somewhere around 6k, but not on mine. A friend has a tweecer and has agreed to help me tune my car. I have no idea how to use it, and find it pointless to read all the tuning threads without ever even seen a tweecer. I know I can adjust my a/f ratio, remove my egr, and remove the rev limiter, but what else can I do on there?

RIO5.0 · Jan 29, 2006

For comparsion sake.. we're damn near the same mods wise...I have Thumper E7s and a Steeda 19....My best power was at 14 deg, any higher and the power fell off...I ran up to 20 in 2 deg increments just to find out...My AFR was 13.7 with 39 lb's...I had it 42 and picked up 8hp by dropping to 39...
I'm running the stock 19s to....I was at 263 and 296 on the tq....could be just the AODE and your fuel ???

final5-0 · Jan 29, 2006

95Vert said:
I guess that's where the damn factory put it. I've heard that's it's supposed to be somewhere around 6k, but not on mine. A friend has a tweecer and has agreed to help me tune my car. I have no idea how to use it, and find it pointless to read all the tuning threads without ever even seen a tweecer. I know I can adjust my a/f ratio, remove my egr, and remove the rev limiter, but what else can I do on there?

The limiter is lower on aode pcm's.

The lean fuel ratio did keep the numbers down some.

And as said, the auto trans sapped a bit of hp as well.

Upping the pressure would not hurt your 19's but I think it would be better to move up to 24's.

What was the spark for that pull?

Grady

Pokageek · Jan 29, 2006

I have a tweecer for $80 less. If you want the R/T all you have to do is send it to a delaer to upgrade.

final5-0 · Jan 29, 2006

RIO5.0 said:
For comparsion sake.. we're damn near the same mods wise...I have Thumper E7s and a Steeda 19....My best power was at 14 deg, any higher and the power fell off...I ran up to 20 in 2 deg increments just to find out...My AFR was 13.7 with 39 lb's...I had it 42 and picked up 8hp by dropping to 39...
I'm running the stock 19s to....I was at 263 and 296 on the tq....could be just the AODE and your fuel ???

So interesting that you would post this info because I was thinking along these very lines.

I was guessing Nacho's combo at 265-270rwhp if he had a t-5.

If we use Andy's 265 rwhp and 15% loss we have 310fwhp.

If Nacho also is 310rwhp and we apply a 20% loss we have 248.

Take a bit more off for the fact that he was pretty lean and we are in the ballpark.

Grady

94YellowStang · Jan 29, 2006

My cars mostly stock, dyno'd it this weekend look at my mods in my sig. I dyno'd on a dynojet 217hp 280TQ.

69clark · Jan 30, 2006

Sounds like you need a new tuning shop.
1. Too lean
2. Base timing must be set with spout removed (don't know if that is what is meant by "ON")
3. Should try adj. your fuel pressure during the dyno runs.
You got some areas to work on but the shop should be able to help and steer you in the right direction. Sounds like you know what you need to do. Do it and take the car somewhere else to put it on the dyno, unless you are just running for numbers and not tuning.

jorge.pena · Jan 30, 2006

I would definitely go to 24#,you're taking in enough air to make them work.
With all that's been said by the guys here, and they're right on the money, there's one thing you need to realize, the 94-95 GT's are probably the most under powered of them all, there's a bunch of reasons for this but we're not going to get into it now, the hp rating for one of these was somewhere in the neighborhood of 215 hp. As far as your car goes, with the mods you have you're pretty close to where you should be so don't be too disappointed, it's just that us 94-95 owners have to work a little harder at it. Get the 24's, retune, and personally I would go with shortie headders, with at least 1 5/8 primaries, they'll probably work better with your combo as far as your top end is concerned.

Methodical · Jan 30, 2006

95Vert said:
I guess that's where the damn factory put it. I've heard that's it's supposed to be somewhere around 6k, but not on mine. A friend has a tweecer and has agreed to help me tune my car. I have no idea how to use it, and find it pointless to read all the tuning threads without ever even seen a tweecer. I know I can adjust my a/f ratio, remove my egr, and remove the rev limiter, but what else can I do on there?

Is your friend going to leave his tweecer chip/setup in your car because that is the only way you will be able to keep the tweecer tune. In other words, unless your friend gives you his tweecer, you will need to purchase one inorder to tune. peace

speedytang · Jan 30, 2006

Other than your lean condition I would say your numbers are in line to what is installed in parts. I am sure your car would only dyno at 175 whp stock off the showroom with the automatic.

Don 95Vert · Jan 30, 2006

Did he use the chip to electronically lock the converter on the dyno? If he did not, then the numbers are not right anyway.

If the pull had an A/F of 14-15 the run should have been aborted. I'd guess he used a tailpipe sniffer and the filter in his sniffer box needed to be changed.

The rev limiter on a W4H0 is 5700 stock and on a U4P0 it is 5800, so if it's coming on at 5400, something else is up.

Don

95Vert · Jan 30, 2006

Thanks guys for all th replies. So then I guess we won't be able to tune my car with his tweecer. I thought we could do 2 cars with one tweecer, guess I'm wrong. 265-270 is really what I was shooting for. I'm pretty sure I would have hit 250 if the damn limiter wasn't there and if I wasn't lean. This is just another reason why I really really want a t-5. 24lbers it is then!!!

Dan95-5.0 · Jan 30, 2006

you dont have a converter in you car, thats why LOL

i dyno'd 202hp/246trq that was before i added headers, before i bumped the the timing (had only 10*), no chip, no fuel pressure change.

Don 95Vert- whats the purpose of locking-up in 3rd gear on a dyno?

AODE's give out weird numbers on the dyno.

95Vert · Jan 31, 2006

What are you pulling now with the stall Dan?

gcomfx.com · Jan 31, 2006

Stock converters are the debil!

240hp/265tq. THIS IS BS!!!

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