289 buildup

88stanggonebad

New Member
Sep 25, 2004
59
0
0
i was wondering how much power i could get out of a 289 build up and what parts do you recomend for a fun street car with enough power to back it up. should i build up the 289 or just get a 302 or 351w and stuff it into my car, its a 1967 mustang coupe with a auto c4
 
  • Sponsors (?)


i've souped mine up a lil bit. its no where close to the above mentioned but its still fun!

bored it 30 over, through in a cam (204/214 duration 448/472 lift [its still a 3 speed auto]), through on a four barrell setup and some long tubes headers.

if anything it will defiantly sound like its got power lol
 
You can go to my site below and on page 2 it has all the specs and what I did to the engine.
When I first dyno'd it, she was putting 278hp and 254tq to the ground, that was in Kansas.
Dyno'd it 2 weeks ago here in Oregon and it showed 214hp and 254tq to the ground. I haven't tuned it yet for this higher elevation.
 
silverbluebp said:
You can go to my site below and on page 2 it has all the specs and what I did to the engine.
When I first dyno'd it, she was putting 278hp and 254tq to the ground, that was in Kansas.
Dyno'd it 2 weeks ago here in Oregon and it showed 214hp and 254tq to the ground. I haven't tuned it yet for this higher elevation.

Would you mind if I took the details of your buildup to add to my site? I am trying to build a database of engine buildups and their results.
 
You'll get more bang for the buck with a 351W. It has more torque and some of the same parts that work on 289/302's are the same parts that work on the 351. You can stroke it out and get a lot of cid if you want to. The 289 would be my last choice. Not because it is a bad engine but because it's less discplacement. The 351 will fit nicely in a 67 too.
 
'65 289 block, '65 cast crank indexed and rod journals turned to V6 Chevy size, Howards Aluminum rods, stock length, TRW 12.7:1 pistons, Schneider solid roller cam (pic of cam card below), Erson 1.6 Roller Rockers, ported '69 351W heads, 2.02/1.60 Stainless valves, Offy 360 dual top tunnel ram, a pair of Holley 660 center squirters (yes, that's 1320cfm potential, bigger than a Dominator), Jerico 4-speed (2.95 1st), 5.67 gears, 9x30 slicks

11.08@119 in the 1/4 in a 3000# car with driver. Moroso's slide rule calculator shows about 400hp, Tim McAmis' calculator shows 384 RWHP to run 119 in the 1/4 at that weight. Never dyno'd the engine. Launched at 6400 and shifted and crossed at 8000. No replacement for displacement my azz, btw, this engine was built in the mid 80's before there was any aftermarket heads, much less aluminums ones. It was all old school, I bought the long block for $2250 and had $500 in the carbs/intake. I am in the process of selling the heads with rockers for $600 to a friend who's in college and can't swing aluminum for his Fox right now. I hope to sell the rest of it except the carbs, but I may sell them with the intake if someone want them that way. I'd take the same price I got the carbs/intake for. I'll have the shortblock at WFC for about $500. I figure the pistons and block are still good, but someone may want to run the shortblock as is until she blows. It still runs good, it's had a set of Canfields and a Funnel Web with a Pro Systems carb on it in a 3200# '68 coupe with a PA C4 and 4.33s running high 11's, but it won't pull the wheels like it did when it was old school. I thought about putting the engine back the way it was, freshened up and put it back in the 3000# car as we still have all the stuff, and try to make it go 10's all N/A, but I've decided to give up on the SBF stuff, I'm an FE guy now, pretty much.

http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/308154/fullsize/camcard.jpg