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302 Engine Build

  • Thread starter Thread starter dspur
  • Start date Start date Sep 15, 2017
D

dspur

New Member
Sep 15, 2017
3
0
1
Sep 15, 2017
#1
  • Sep 15, 2017
  • #1
I am wanting to build 302 for the car, but unsure which route to go either stroker motor or keep crank stock. I was at machine shop today asking for ideas and the guy told me to keep crank stock and put alum heads and cam with 20 shot of nos and i can hit high 10's. He did give me the name or specs of the head or cam. i dont want to spend a fortune but i have some budget for the build. Was wanting to see what people here what would suggest. Thank you
 

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
Admin Dude
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#2
  • Sep 15, 2017
  • #2
Your machinist makes some sense but there are questions:

What year 302?
What will be the primary role of the finished car?
What's your budget?
Fuel injected?
What parts do you already have?
What do you already know that you need to buy?

I'm not a fan of having nitrous as the only power adder. I would rebuild the motor with the stock nodular crank with forged rods and pistons. I would select a cam that runs well N/A but is well suited for adding a super-charger later. Aluminum heads are a "must-have". There's lots to choose from and out-of-the-box, the differences are more about "when" power is greatest and less about "how much". I would stick with shorty headers, a good H-pipe with 3-way cats, and stainless cat-back. This should net 260+ without issue.

If it's a 5-speed, I'd swap the fly-wheel for forged steel and look into having the T5 re-worked by a transmission speed-shop. Auto - still needs to be re-worked.

Next, I'd drop the family fortune on brakes and suspension. This will cost between $2k and sleeping in your car.

Of course, this is all based on what "I" would want out the car. Tell us about what you want out of it.

It still blows my mind to see one of these cars making sub-300 RWHP with a kick-ass suspension. I take particular joy in watching them pass BMWs and Porches on a road course.

Them: Damned cheap-ass Pony car.


Oh... and welcome aboard!
 
Reactions: Manoah, LILCBRA and Bullitt347

Adieu

Easy there, this ain't a dating site.
20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 7, 2002
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Sep 16, 2017
#3
  • Sep 16, 2017
  • #3
Noobz347 said:
I would stick with shorty headers, a good H-pipe with 3-way cats, and stainless cat-back.

If it's a 5-speed, I'd swap the fly-wheel for forged steel and look into having the T5 re-worked by a transmission speed-shop. Auto - still needs to be re-worked.
Click to expand...

If OP posted in the correct forum...

1. Nobody makes shorty headers for a II, it's either longtubes or manifolds, shortys would hit the crossmember.

2. Any H-pipe would have to be custom fabricated (no biggie, I'm running one).

3. Outside of California, cat wouldn't be necessary at all, and even there, only on 76-78 cars (OP didn't say what he had).

4. Any performance exhaust for a II will have to be custom fabricated by a muffler shop or performance shop, nobody sells kits.

5. IIs had 4-spds or automatics. On the 4-spd side, parts are hard to find, especially flywheels, on the automatic side a factory V8 car would've had a C4, already good to go durability-wise, but upgrades are nice.


Brakes an good suspension are actually cheap for IIs, Speedway Motors is your friend.
 
Reactions: Manoah, LILCBRA and Noobz347
D

dspur

New Member
Sep 15, 2017
3
0
1
Oct 4, 2017
#4
  • Oct 4, 2017
  • #4
Noobz347 said:
Your machinist makes some sense but there are questions:

What year 302?
What will be the primary role of the finished car?
What's your budget?
Fuel injected?
What parts do you already have?
What do you already know that you need to buy?

I'm not a fan of having nitrous as the only power adder. I would rebuild the motor with the stock nodular crank with forged rods and pistons. I would select a cam that runs well N/A but is well suited for adding a super-charger later. Aluminum heads are a "must-have". There's lots to choose from and out-of-the-box, the differences are more about "when" power is greatest and less about "how much". I would stick with shorty headers, a good H-pipe with 3-way cats, and stainless cat-back. This should net 260+ without issue.

If it's a 5-speed, I'd swap the fly-wheel for forged steel and look into having the T5 re-worked by a transmission speed-shop. Auto - still needs to be re-worked.

Next, I'd drop the family fortune on brakes and suspension. This will cost between $2k and sleeping in your car.

Of course, this is all based on what "I" would want out the car. Tell us about what you want out of it.

It still blows my mind to see one of these cars making sub-300 RWHP with a kick-ass suspension. I take particular joy in watching them pass BMWs and Porches on a road course.

Them: Damned cheap-ass Pony car.


Oh... and welcome aboard!
Click to expand...
1. 87 302
2. I want something too pin you to seat driving around and also want to take it to track and do good times preferably 10 sec or under
3.budget depends on how much I want to work overtime
4. carb
5. i have block but my nephew cracked his so im gonna give him mine and get a different engine.
6 I know i practically need everything

I heard from guy at work that put 460 in a galaxy and it was impressive and seen that they will fit in 76 mustang with modifications and i'd want it too have auto trans
 

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
Admin Dude
Jan 4, 1985
42,881
21,061
234
Box behind Walmart
Oct 4, 2017
#5
  • Oct 4, 2017
  • #5
I think your goals are very lofty.

With engine, suspension, power adder, brakes, and trans, you're looking at over $10k of investment.
 

LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air
Mod Dude
Dec 6, 2005
6,312
5,278
194
Corn County USA
Oct 4, 2017
#6
  • Oct 4, 2017
  • #6
If you're looking to throw a 460 in a II, you may want to study up on Gapp & Roush's version from back in the day. It is doable, but not necessarily for the faint at heart....

http://www.mustangandfords.com/feat...ed-that-infamous-ruggirello-roush-mustang-ii/
 

jozsefsz

15 Year Member
Aug 11, 2013
1,243
332
124
Cleveland OH Area
Oct 4, 2017
#7
  • Oct 4, 2017
  • #7
Step 1) Sell your II
Step 2) Find a Fox or SN95 and start from there

If what really counts to you is speed, the II is the long (and expensive) way to get to your destination.
As a long-time owner of a II, you'll be fabricating next to everything, and nothing else will come cheap. It can be done, but you've really gotta love the car and enjoy the journey. If you just want to go fast for cheap, there are better options.
 
Reactions: Manoah and Adieu

Adieu

Easy there, this ain't a dating site.
20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 7, 2002
9,531
5,187
224
Oct 4, 2017
#8
  • Oct 4, 2017
  • #8
jozsefsz said:
Step 1) Sell your II
Step 2) Find a Fox or SN95 and start from there

If what really counts to you is speed, the II is the long (and expensive) way to get to your destination.
As a long-time owner of a II, you'll be fabricating next to everything, and nothing else will come cheap. It can be done, but you've really gotta love the car and enjoy the journey. If you just want to go fast for cheap, there are better options.
Click to expand...
Troof, BUT...

If you start with a factory 302/C4, car, and you're willing to stay with the automatic, the costs become comparable once you're past the headers and torque converter. The issues then become hood clearance, difficulty of installation, and traction.
 
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