302 or 347

[DAZ]

I have a 1970 D0oE Engine/ Heads. Can not tell if heads have been reworked.
Car ran great until I tore the top end off to find out what kind of cam and lifters it had. Discovered that every push rod was severely bent. Car ran strong, did not burn oil, but ran a little too rich and had a tendacy to stall out
unless I put the car in neutral.
I also discovered that the engine had been bored over .030 (as stamped on the TRW L-2249 piston tops). I pulled the cam, but I could not find any manufacturers identification. The only numbers stamped to the cam were "1206".
Here are my questions???
1. Do I need to pull the engine and tear out internals to eliminate possibility of metal shavings. (found none in oil pan)?
2. Do I need to determine all the crank measurments to determine which type
of cam, lifters, rockers to install?
3. Are the TRW L-2249 pistons to hifgh of a compression for this block.
4. What is the best combination of cam, lifters,rockers for this engine for street use and ability to drive long distance?
5. Best place to buy rebuilt engine should I need to get rid of this one?

 

[fasttback]

I have a 1970 D0oE Engine/ Heads. Can not tell if heads have been reworked.
Car ran great until I tore the top end off to find out what kind of cam and lifters it had. Discovered that every push rod was severely bent. Car ran strong, did not burn oil, but ran a little too rich and had a tendacy to stall out
unless I put the car in neutral.
I also discovered that the engine had been bored over .030 (as stamped on the TRW L-2249 piston tops). I pulled the cam, but I could not find any manufacturers identification. The only numbers stamped to the cam were "1206".
Here are my questions???
1. Do I need to pull the engine and tear out internals to eliminate possibility of metal shavings. (found none in oil pan)?
2. Do I need to determine all the crank measurments to determine which type
of cam, lifters, rockers to install?
3. Are the TRW L-2249 pistons to hifgh of a compression for this block.
4. What is the best combination of cam, lifters,rockers for this engine for street use and ability to drive long distance?
5. Best place to buy rebuilt engine should I need to get rid of this one?

Here's my quick shot at it:

1) A closer inspection of the valve train is needed to figure out why every push rod was bent...and possible damage elsewhere.

2) A search on the TRW piston number key out to be a 302. You can also check the stroke by just measuring the piston movement from TDC to BDC (ex. 3.0"=302 with a 4.00" bore, I believe the crank should also be marked with something like "2M" indicating a 302 crank). You should look for 289 or 302 valve train components (also note if you have a flat tappet or roller block). Be prepared to do some valve train geometry to match all components or ask around.

3) I think your compression ratio is somewhere around 11:1 with the pop-ups (still need to confirm your stroke, cylinder cc's, pop-up cc's and gasket cc's. A little much for a street car with today's gas, but I've heard with 92 octane, timing set right, and a good aftermarket ignition it will work. My 352 will soon be running at 11:1.

4) Lots of variables to consider about this one (need more info - e.g. what kind of performance are you looking for - power range, hp, addition equipment on the motor, etc).

5) Crate motors seem to be a good choice, but I tend to rebuild my own.

 

[DAZ]

I took the heads to a speed shop here in Binghamton, NY. The proprietor gave me the run dowm, I'll try to sum up.
1.Too high a compression for stock OEM ford heads.
2.Push Rods to long.
3.No guideplates.
4.Roller rockers not good quality.
5.Two of the valves had worked loose and were in serious danger of breaking loose.
Basically said heads were not worth rebuilding because the most HP they could safely handle is 280 HP. He didn't try to sell me heads, but suggested that I bring the engine for examination. If bottom end checked out ok, he would recommend appropriate valve train setup.