302 shortblock question

[autumn_again]

i'm thinking with my tax return, looking at getting a used 302, to build up, while i'm currently driving my mustang with a 302 in it now.

my current engine has over 202,000 miles on it, if its the original engine.

What is needed if i use a majority of parts like the accessories and such of my engine now, just take the block from a used 302 and build up that.

can i just drop it in after build up and hook up my accesories, ecu and such?

I am on a tight budget, and I know 302s go real cheap in this area. there was a 1974 for 50 bucks on craigslist recently, could of bought an 80s one for 150 with 80,000 miles on it.

i figured i can buy the block now, and build it up and have it done before i start running into problems with my current engine. and be able to drop another engine right in, instead of taking the old one out, and building that up, then putting it in. no wait time really.

what should i look for to start with?

any good writeups online about building up 302s?

my brother had one in his stang that him and my father built, so its nothing new for my dad or brother if i need help.

 

[94CobraPace]

Getting another block is a good idea, that is what I did.
A roller block is prefered, little more money but worth it. Build the engine, then when you pull yours, just change over all the needed items and drop the new one in.

 

[cbarr300]

make sure you get quality machine work done...that's where your reliability is.

I like the idea of building up a different block. If I were you I'd get a roller block.

JUST DON'T SKIMP ON MACHINE WORK!!!!!

get all your threads chased, get all surfaces nice and shiny, and assemble everything per specs...You'll most likely need help checking clearances in your bottom end and things like that...but there really isn't much to it. Just take your time.

 

[final5-0]

Its hard to beat the no hassle method of finding a junkyard roller motor with
low miles and has never had the pan or valve covers removed

Of course you have no trick balance or blueprint kinda thing or upgraded
pistons and other parts with that method

however

The price is VERY low with that method :Word:

I guess it all depends upon if you wanna base your combo around an OEM
short block

Grady

 

[autumn_again]

i don't plan on putting out too much power, not enough to destroy the OEM block at least haha.

i'd like to put out like 400. of course when i get to 400, i may be singing a different tune.

i'm planning H/C/I, and and maybe, eventually a blower, depending on the money i have at that point.

this will be a daily driver, and the occasional track day.

 

[1badsuv]

Shop around for a rolled explorer ( or Mountaineer) with a v8

for your app a 2wd would rock-
I know of these being sold for 900 bux-rolling and running.
now you have a 4r70w transmision that is stout as hell, a good roller block,
and--an 8.8 inch rear with 3.73's and disc brakes.
Look for a 98-01, as they have the gt-40 p heads--

all you need is to get that explorer high torque camshaft out, swap in another and you are set.
I know over time you can part the rest and get quite a bit of the $$ back-

the console would get 150 bux today if it is nice--

 

[fastgtfairlane]

400 at the flywheel or rear wheels? 400 at the flywheel will not be that hard to do. a wisely chosen set of heads, maybe afr 185s, a custom cam, and a good intake, and a properly balanced, blueprinted block with all of the supporting mods can get you there.

400 to the tires, no replacement for displacement as far as n/a is concerned. 331 or 347 is the way to go. it too will have to be built the same way.

it all comes down to how much you can spend on parts. doing the work yourself will save a ton of money.

 

[autumn_again]

yeah everything for the most part will be done myself, if not all. my dads a mechanic, so if i need help, i have someone there to guide me.

and first i was going to do H/C/I, maybe trickflow track heat set up.

if i wasn't satisfied with that, i would save up for a blower.