306 and stock radiator: will it work?

fiveoho

15 Year Member

Apr 28, 2005

1,958

16

69

TN

Jun 5, 2006

#1

• Jun 5, 2006

• #1

on a mild na 306 setup ( check sig for details ) will the stock radiator cut it?

i hate to invest $300+ into a fluidyne if i dont need it but at the same time, all this $$ i will have in the motor - i dont want to chance it either. i dont want to mess with universal stuff and get into all the fab work. just a drop in replacement.

can i use the stock one or do i need to upgrade?
are they any other options as far as using the stock one and replacing the fans with larger ones or changing the thermostat?

thanks in advance

 

AznStanger3v

Active Member

Aug 11, 2003

2,026

0

47

Northern VA

Jun 5, 2006

#2

• Jun 5, 2006

• #2

of course itll work. when i had my 306 back in the day, i ran the stock radiator and it worked fine. you can change the thremostat if you want to. most people do that in the beginning. i used a 180* tstat.

 

Pokageek

Active Member

Jun 10, 2005

2,767

0

46

MA, USA

Jun 5, 2006

#3

• Jun 5, 2006

• #3

No you do not need any special radiator. I am running a similar set up and my car runs cool ALL the time. Just get a 180 dg thermostat and get the fans programmed like I did to come on earlier. The stock program med fans comes on way too hot in my o.

You will notice no difference after you do that whether buying an expensive rad or not and will have wasted your money. Now if you s/c I would upgrade but only then. Good luck.

 

fiveoho

15 Year Member

Apr 28, 2005

1,958

16

69

TN

Jun 5, 2006

#4

• Jun 5, 2006

• #4

preciate it guys. i was hoping to be able to use the stocker. plenty of other places that extra cash can go

how do you program the fans to come on earlier?

 

WhiteDevil

New Member

Feb 4, 2003

2,717

0

0

San Diego

Jun 5, 2006

#5

• Jun 5, 2006

• #5

fiveoho said:

preciate it guys. i was hoping to be able to use the stocker. plenty of other places that extra cash can go

how do you program the fans to come on earlier?

Click to expand...

Get a TwEECer or PMS.

 

fiveoho

15 Year Member

Apr 28, 2005

1,958

16

69

TN

Jun 5, 2006

#6

• Jun 5, 2006

• #6

thanks bro

 

Pokageek

Active Member

Jun 10, 2005

2,767

0

46

MA, USA

Jun 5, 2006

#7

• Jun 5, 2006

• #7

I went professional tune for $250 and just drive it without tinkering. I don't have time to tinker anymore so works for me.

 

fiveoho

15 Year Member

Apr 28, 2005

1,958

16

69

TN

Jun 5, 2006

#8

• Jun 5, 2006

• #8

i always hear a tune makes a world of difference on our cars. lot of truth to that?

 

AznStanger3v

Active Member

Aug 11, 2003

2,026

0

47

Northern VA

Jun 5, 2006

#9

• Jun 5, 2006

• #9

tunes make a world of difference on fuel injection... especially a modded car. worth its weight in gold.

 

mo_dingo

20+ Year Stangneter

Aug 26, 2003

3,031

2

58

Tucson, AZ

Jun 5, 2006

#10

• Jun 5, 2006

• #10

17yrOldStanger said:

tunes make a world of difference on fuel injection... especially a modded car. worth its weight in gold.

Click to expand...

Ditto

 

SVTCobra306

New Member

Oct 22, 2005

170

1

0

Ft. Bragg, NC

Jun 5, 2006

#11

• Jun 5, 2006

• #11

No need to buy a tune simply for the fan to come on sooner. I wired a 3 position switch on mine to pin 17 on the ccrm. Pos 1 connected the pin to its normal wire to have the high-speed fan function normally. Pos 2 (centered) was dead, and Pos. 3 grounds the pin to run the fan full time high speed. Wore out my fan bearings a little faster though, but in Louisiana summer heat with a stock rad and an Iron headed 306, I stayed right around 200 degrees most of the time, 210 with the A/C on, 215 in traffic.

Of course, with the Fluidyne I never broke 195 degrees regardless of AC or no AC, traffic or no traffic...

 

fiveoho

15 Year Member

Apr 28, 2005

1,958

16

69

TN

Jun 6, 2006

#12

• Jun 6, 2006

• #12

SVTCobra306 said:

No need to buy a tune simply for the fan to come on sooner. I wired a 3 position switch on mine to pin 17 on the ccrm. Pos 1 connected the pin to its normal wire to have the high-speed fan function normally. Pos 2 (centered) was dead, and Pos. 3 grounds the pin to run the fan full time high speed. Wore out my fan bearings a little faster though, but in Louisiana summer heat with a stock rad and an Iron headed 306, I stayed right around 200 degrees most of the time, 210 with the A/C on, 215 in traffic.

Of course, with the Fluidyne I never broke 195 degrees regardless of AC or no AC, traffic or no traffic...

Click to expand...

that method sounda a little cheaper. i just want to keep it in the 'safe zone' if i use a stocker.