32v Lincoln Aviator 4.6L w/ P.I. 2v heads, ect...

[PigTerdLX]

I have come across a cheap Lincoln Aviator complete engine with the infamous "head-tick" problem. Now my question is has anyone here dressed THIS short block w/ stock P.I. 2v heads, intake, ect...

If I use the 32v Aviator block with my 2001 P.I. 2v "accessories" what kind of power would I see?

I've read the build would net about a 11.4:1 compression ratio (sourced from: http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?p=622029 ) Can anyone offer some info?

As i said i would like more knowledge on the subject before bringing the idea to my engine builder. Does the 32v require a 8-bolt or 6-bolt flywheel?

My reason for being interested in this is for the power gain. I know it may be labor intensive but at the same time CHEAP!!! I feel my 2001 GT (5-speed) will greatly benefit from the lighter aluminum block and more HP.

 

[PigTerdLX]

More info (some back ground as to why I want to take on this build): my car weighs 3240lbs and already has most familiar "bolt-ons."

Cold-air, 85mm Pro-M, Professional Products T/B, elbow, and lower manifold, Dr Gas off road X-pipe, and Flowmaster cat-back. Also has aluminum flywheel, Ford Racing aluminum driveshaft, UPR K-member, A-arms, coil-over w/ Strange 10-ways, and upper/lower control arms.

I know long tubes are in order for this build to be beneficial, which ones? (I don't care if they are stainless or not, the car don't see rain or snow) I just want a good quality header, I will probably heat-rap them any way.

 

[Rougestang]

Is it possible? Yes. There are various parts you would have to pull from your current motor to make it work, but it can be done. I'm not too familiar with the Navigator motor, but the DOHC 4.6's in Cobras (Windsor block) are an 8 bolt crank= 8 bolt flywheel. The romeo blocks were a 6 bolt. I'm assuming that FOMOCO probably used the same stuff regardless of what vehicle it was in (since most things can be interchanged between 4.6's and some 5.4's).

As far as power numbers, I wouldn't be surprised if there wasn't much of a difference. Sure the Navi block is lighter (aluminum), and the compression is raised ( I'm assuming the pistons are dished differently than the Mustang's) but over all your probably not gonna make alot more power; noticeable power. What you should do, is keep the "diet" going. Do more weight reduction, or go F/I. If you don't want to, focus on your heads. Get em ported and cammed. A tune can do wonders with all that.

Is it worth it? Unless your current engine is on its way out, I don't see a need to do it. You could probably spend the same amount on the build as you would just getting some kind of F/I. Plus there are are ways of making a super quick 4.6 with just a "diet". I seem to remember some dude running a mostly stock SN95 New Edge GT with just weight delete and suspension and he was running 12's. (don't quote me on it though)

With your current set up, you would benefit from a F/I. Because you have an aftermarket intake, t/b and what not, your on the right track with the long tubes ( I got mac long tubes, but that's just cause they were a good deal), and you'd be set; I would still recommend the head work.

Like I always say, know what your goal is before you dive into a project. It's a lot easier to see where your going if you know where you want to go.

 

[PigTerdLX]

THANKS for the reply!
i think you may be mixed up tho... i'm talkin about the Lincoln Aviator (not Navigator). Aviator has a 4.6L (much like a Mach 1) and that AUTO MACH 1's and AVIATOR's have 6-bolt cranks where the stick cars have 8-bolt??? (so i can use my Fidanza flywheel i already have on my 2v curretly(6-bolt))

also cited from CarCraft: Note in the chart above that the best naturally aspirated combination may be an early non-power- improved block and Trick Flow’s 38cc chamber heads. If you want more compression, bolt these heads on a four-valve block, which comes with flat-top pistons and will net a compression ratio of nearly 12:1.
link here: Trick Flow Heads - Overhead Cam 4.6L Ford Engine Rebuild - Car Craft Magazine

Altho i may have answered my own question, cited from Modular Head Shop: First we need to locate a 93-early 96 Mark VIII in the junkyard. They made Mark VIII cars up until 98 but the earlier ones have 2 things we prefer; a smaller 2V oil pump and pickup, and the earlier pistons have the top ring land located further down and this makes for a stronger piston top when we notch it. From this car we need to take the complete shortblock including the crank damper, oil pan and pick up, and the fuel injectors, but we do not need the heads, timing chain components, or timing cover.

Next we need to locate a 2001 or newer Crown Victoria, here they are all over the place now. From this we will take the upper plenum, PI intake manifold (if it’s the OEM Ford part not the Dorman), PI heads, timing cover and all pullies located on it, water pump, and timing chain components. The upper plenum from the Crown vic is about a half inch taller than the Mustang one, you just need to unbolt it and turn it the other direction on the intake to make it work in a Mustang (remember we are being cheap here)...
...Disassemble and clean everything well, you will be reusing most of it. I have reused many a stock bearing as they are very hard and typically show either no wear or are destroyed (as is the crank if the bearings are destroyed) Remove the pistons from the rods and get them notched, if you can’t find someone local to do it send them here.

New parts list

Stage 3 or larger 4.6 PI cams - $599

Stage 2 springs = $189

Engine gasket kit - $349

Rings - $59

Bearings - $100

Notches - $149

Curved timing guides - $50

2V dowel pins for the curved timing chain guides - $20

It comes out to just over $1400 plus the money spent at the junkyard to build this combo. Notice we are not doing any machine work, the modular is blessed to have parts that don't wear very much and here we can take advantage of that fact. I have seen many a 400,000 mile modular with the crosshatch to the tops of the bores, the valve guides still within OEM specs, and the valves still sealing just fine.

Power wise this will make an average 290-300RWTQ and 290-300RWHP in the 3500-6500 range if I had to guesstimate it. Not peak, but average. Peak outputs will be higher but peak power doesn’t make you the fastest at the track. You can also get more power doing all the "bolt-ons" should your wallet still weigh you down too much. Here is a Recession Buster I built for a local with our Stage 3 PI heads, Stage 3 NA cams, stock plastic intake, and longtubes. As you can see the torque is a near flat line at 315 Ftlbs from 3800-5400RPM and the HP peak at 5800 was already 330RWHP and was still climbing... FIND IT HERE: ModularHeadShop Recession Buster 2V combo

 

[PigTerdLX]

gotta love google!