331 stroker initial startup questions...

[red50]

Hi guys,
Just about to fire up my Iron Eagle 331 stroker and had a few questions...
I am running a MAF that is calibrated for my 42# injectors and my Vortech S/C. I think i would like to initially start the motor without the charger, just to make sure that it is running ok and i dont blow it up right off the bat. I have the tweecer and am hoping to just change the input my specs to the base tune to get it to run without the charger.
My first question is, is the MAF gonna give me problems?
I have a DSS oil pan... How much oil should i use? Need to know because i have no dipstick
Any other tips?

Thanks in advance!

Darren

 

[SQUEEZE&STROKE]

It will probably start and run...but way fat...might not idle. As for the oil pan...What is the quart rating...Is it a 7 qt oil pan...if so use 7 qt's. Make sure you prime the oil pump really well, run it for 2-3 mins to make sure you have oil pressure and oil throughout the valvetrain. It should be fine.

 

[slvrbullit302]

Hi guys,
Just about to fire up my Iron Eagle 331 stroker and had a few questions...
I am running a MAF that is calibrated for my 42# injectors and my Vortech S/C. I think i would like to initially start the motor without the charger, just to make sure that it is running ok and i dont blow it up right off the bat. I have the tweecer and am hoping to just change the input my specs to the base tune to get it to run without the charger.
My first question is, is the MAF gonna give me problems?
I have a DSS oil pan... How much oil should i use? Need to know because i have no dipstick
Any other tips?

Thanks in advance!

Darren

The DSS pan takes 7 quarts of oil. As for the dip stick you should have been able to use the stock one. I have the same pan and reused my stocker. That is all that I can give you on your topic, dont really know much about the tuning side yet.

When I first started mine we let if get to operating temperature and then let it cool down completely, then fired it off again and let it get to operating temp. and then again cool down completely. Once this was done, took it out for break in driving.

 

[red50]

The DSS pan takes 7 quarts of oil. As for the dip stick you should have been able to use the stock one. I have the same pan and reused my stocker.

I believe that all Dart Iron Eagle blocks do not have the provision for a dipstick...

And thanks for the tips... I was planning on priming my oil pump first too... Is there a special drill attachment or something to do this?

 

[slvrbullit302]

I believe that all Dart Iron Eagle blocks do not have the provision for a dipstick...

Ah did not see that you had a Dart block. But 7quarts will be fine.

 

[red50]

Ah did not see that you had a Dart block. But 7quarts will be fine.

I kn ow i could probably search for an answer to this but since we are on the subject, what grade oil should i use? Should i keep draining and refilling?

 

[slvrbullit302]

I kn ow i could probably search for an answer to this but since we are on the subject, what grade oil should i use? Should i keep draining and refilling?

Many variations on that, I know MM&FF did a write up on oil used in Break in periods. As for me, I used straight 30W oil for the initial start up and first heat cycle, then changed oil and re-filled with the 30W again. After the first 100 miles I changed to 10w40 and then after 500 miles changed the oil again to 10w40. Once it is time for this oil change I will be switching to either Red Line oil or Mobil 1 full synthetic.

Hope this helps a little.

 

[Grn92LX]

Prime the oil pump like they said. You can rent the tool at autozone and hook it up to your drill. Keep the valve covers off for this. Prime it for a minute or so (make sure oil comes up though the rocker area) then rotate the engine and prime again. Keep doing it until oil comes out of every rocker.

Read this link and do what Barry R says. This is how you properly break in a roller cam engine. http://bbs.hardcore50.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=12510&highlight=engine+break

Start the engine up and do what needs to be done to keep it running (check for leaks, set timing ect) then go out and follow what the link says. Then come home and change the oil and filter. Cut the filter open and see if theres any shavings in it. If not, you're good if theres a lot of shavings somethings wrong.

Little fyi, just because you have a 7qt pan I hope you know that doesn't mean you have to run 7qts. I assume you know this. As long as the pan to pick up clearance was set properly, 5 qts is fine.

 

[red50]

I got it started and things look good minus a few small oil leaks from the sending unit/ charger oil feed setup. It seemed to idle happy without the charger connected but once i put the belt on the charger it started surging. Does anyone have any tips on settings i should change in Caledit to keep the engine happy even with the blower?

Some Info on my setup:
DSS 331 stroker Dart Iron Eagle Block
T Trim charger
Anderson Motorsports B31 cam
Pro-m calibrated for 42lb injectors and a supercharger
NO EGR and no SMOG

Thanks in advance for any help.

Darren

 

[WhiteDevil]

Do you have the idle bumped? Its probably a Load thing since u got that bloweron there you are probably seeing 30-40% load at idle which will mess things up.

 

[final5-0]

Do you have the idle bumped? Its probably a Load thing since u got that bloweron there you are probably seeing 30-40% load at idle which will mess things up.

I agree with John about your load most likely being too high and you may want to knock it back down a bit later, but for now and a quick fix, I'll be happy to point you in the right direction with a thought or two.

I'd try this first.

You could see how the KAMRF's look and use them to fatten or lean your maf transfer points at and around idle conditions. This one thing alone may make things more satisfactory.

You reported surging and that is usually a dead give away you are too fat but the K's in the dlog will tell you the true facts.

I would not be surprised if you found the following stuff to be way off.

You are gonna have to tweec your tb airflow and isc neutral idle airflow values for the extra airflow from the blower.

If you have EECAnalyzer it will give you all the details you need to make these quick adjustments.

Just know that those two methods are kind of a "red neck" way to get you some quick help and you will want to use the various inj settings, get your load in check, work on your complete maf curve, yada, yada, yada for a more precise way of tuning that will be stable for you in the long run.

If you need some help with this stuff just shout. We've gotten to the point that there are now quite a few Tweecer peeps on our site that can help if the need arises.

Congrats on the new combo and let us know how everything turns out.

Grady

 

[red50]

Do you have the idle bumped?

Not sure what this means? I had the idle set to about 850. I am going to go through the steps to set teh idle and stuff again just to make sure i am setup correctly...

You are gonna have to tweec your tb airflow and isc neutral idle airflow values for the extra airflow from the blower.

If you have EECAnalyzer it will give you all the details you need to make these quick adjustments.

This is all a little over my head... I checked my datalogs and something wasn't right... One O2 sensor was way off while the other was spot on. I am running longtubes and think maybe this was the problem... I do have EEC analyzer but do not really know how to use it. I have been messing with it but am far from understanding it completely. Are there any links to good tutorials for it, i have checked the tweecer sites and tuning sites but am still very new to this stuff. I did make the adjustment to the tb airflow of upto .8 because i also have a 65mm tb, is that about right or should i jack it up more? I have no idea what i should be using for isc neutral idle airflow though...
Thanks,
D

 

[a50sn95]

If you open EEC Analyzer, go to the tab that has TB airflow and ISC in it (Sorry, I'm not on a machine that has it installed right now...). Click the help button. (I think there are two on that page). One of them gives you the steps to get this information. Basically, you datalog airflow at various RPM's, and then use EA to calculate the numbers for you. You'll need to have your MAF information imported into EA before you open the datalog, though, for it to be accurate. On the MAF tab, there is an import button. If you input your MAF into CalEdit, there is an export button in CalEdit. Export it as something you will recognize, go to EA and import it. Then open your datalog. It will use the MAF information when it makes the calulations. Be aware that if you adjust your MAF later, you'll need to adjust the ISC and Neutral numbers again, if that is the range you changed in your MAF. Thats where I am now. I got it all set, and then discovered I was a bit rich at idle (of course, it wouldn't idle at all before, so I couldn't adjust my MAF until...you know catch 22..). So now I just need to adjust my numbers again. I still idles ok, but occasionally drops to low when I let off the throttle.
Here's another recent thread along the same lines:
Here
And the numbers I used, some of which MIGHT work for you:
Here
And my post on EECTuning:
here