347/OBD1 issues. anyone?!

[SR86]

So, after putting a 347 in my ranger, I ran into some issues. turns out the setup I had, would not advance the timing. (Ran a 14.2 with a 302 with no timing advance!!) I'd used a 95 mustang FEAD, and distributor, and 89 mustang PCM...didn't work.

So, I bought a 95 mustang. took the entire PCM, and wiring out of it, and fitted it to the ranger....

Now, it has issues. Serious bog issues, will not make power at WOT, idle is poor, but seems like there is a "sweet spot" if you find it, the truck (car) makes serious power...
basically, this is now a 347 in a 95 mustang GT.

I'm using the Auto computer, with a manual trans. will this cause issues?
What else would cause this? the TPS checks out. (.899, up to .499 at WOT) Fuel pressure at 42psi.
Balanced 347, AFR 185, XFI stroker cam, 1.6 rocker, 24# injectors, with 24 Granatelli MAF.
Trick flow intakes, 1-5/8 headers, 70mm TB and spacer.
Is there data-logging available for these, to see what the PCM is seeing, and doing?
Summer is almost over, and I'm at wit's end, almost to the point of giving up on her, and tossing in the BBK Instacharged 4.0L that's nearby......
Suggestions VERY welcome.

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

Do not jumper anything to the single dark brown connector. It is the power for the under the hood light. It is in another bundle of wires near the windshield wiper.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see EQUUS DIGITAL FORD CODE READER (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

 

[SR86]

Nothing that solves the issue came up in codes... EGR fail, (deleted) Shift solinoid 1 and 2 fail, TOT fail, not in park, (car is a manual now) Canister Purge fail, AIR B and D fail(emissions deleted)