347 Startup Break-in Cappaccino Oil!

AnthonyR23 · Jun 9, 2009

Hey guys, so what I thought was good news, I got the new 347 started up, probably 3 times, for about 2 or 3 minutes, noticed a bit of a gas leak on one of the fuel rails, so I fixed that, then it looked like a bit of a water leak at the back, which seemed to go away after I dried it off, and tried a second time, then after the third time starting for 2 minutes, I topped up the rad, checked the oil, and it looks milky. So I think if the lower intake gasket is leaking and water is getting in the oil, I caught it early enough, just dumped the oil and it looks like cappuccino. So is this normal for a 347 at startup with condensation, I heard it is smart to dump the oil right away anyways, and is it true that it takes for the engine to heat up for the gaskets and the liquid gasket to seal correctly. So would you guys assume the lower intake is leaking and rip it apart, or would leave the oil plug out for a day, top up with fresh oil, and fresh oil filter, try to run again once or twice and see if it turns milky again? Any suggestions greatly appreciated, not going to do anything now till I am sure, just to avoid any damage! Thanks guys!

Brian992V · Jun 9, 2009

I would pull the intake at the very least and see what the problem is. You have a leak somewhere so theres no need to fire it up anymore.

90lxcoupe · Jun 9, 2009

the intake is defiinitly leaking, what lower are you running?

67coupe · Jun 10, 2009

NO, not normal. Most likely a lower intake leak. Do not start again until you've addressed this problem. Coolant in the oil will damage bearings very quickly.

Replace intake gaskets, change oil and filter and crank it up.

AnthonyR23 · Jun 10, 2009

Hey its the trick flow street series with trick flow heads, all brand new.

90lxcoupe · Jun 10, 2009

I actually had to mill .060 off of each side of my intake, dosent sound like much, but it was enough to mismatch the water ports on my heads.

Install the intake "dry" no silicone on the end rails, but with the gaskets on the head, and take a dial caliper, and see what the distance between the endrails of the valley and the intake are. If its more than .125'' then you are going to have to have the intake machined.

Also, did you use RTV around the water jackets? if so what kind. I use Permatex "right stuff" and that **** is awesome, way better than regular silicone, more tacky and sets up in like a minute

67coupe · Jun 10, 2009

What most likely happened is the gasket shifted during intake install.

In addition to putting RTV around the water ports, I also use some gasket cement on the other areas of the head. I then set the intake on the heads (not torqued and let it dry for a few hours. This prevents the gaskets from shifting when torqued.

Then torque in sequence to spec in stages. I usually go over the bolts at least three times due to gasket compression.

AnthonyR23 · Jun 10, 2009

Hey so I got the lower off, about 15 minutes ago, have to get ready for work, I did use that black permatex rtv sealer, it does look like the front shifted, because it is stuck out of place, but not sure if that would cause the water in the oil, anyways I want to make sure I do this right this time, so I will check out every suggestion and take my time with this! I took a few pics and will try to post them!

AnthonyR23 · Jun 10, 2009

More Pics

AnthonyR23 · Jun 10, 2009

See in the last pic how the gasket looks shifted, not sure how that could have affected the water ports though?? Don't you think the trick flow street heads should match the trick flow street intake pretty good, compared to lets say a trick flow intake with stock heads. You would think that the same make heads intake would match up better random mixed matched parts?

AnthonyR23 · Jun 10, 2009

I don't think I needed enough RTV sealer, so this time I am gonna go with a little thicker beads of sealer!

cardudeusa · Jun 10, 2009

One thing I have always done is throw away the end seals and run a nice 1/4 inch bead of Ultra Black Permatex, making sure to cover the corners where the gaskets meet. Then follow 67coupes directions and you should be good.

Cobra912 · Jun 10, 2009

cardudeusa said:
One thing I have always done is throw away the end seals and run a nice 1/4 inch bead of Ultra Black Permatex, making sure to cover the corners where the gaskets meet. Then follow 67coupes directions and you should be good.

yep I did the same thing, ditch the cork end gaskets. I have never had a leak.

AnthonyR23 · Jun 11, 2009

okay awesome! I will try that! "Ditching the cork ends" and I will pick up some gasket cement aswell as the rtv sealer... thanks guys!

I will let you guys know how it goes! Thanks!!!!!!!!

90lxcoupe · Jun 11, 2009

Get permatex "RIGHT STUFF" its way better than the black RTV... I had nothing but problems with the black sealer

cardudeusa · Jun 11, 2009

90lxcoupe said:
Get permatex "RIGHT STUFF" its way better than the black RTV... I had nothing but problems with the black sealer

Thats good stuff too, good luck finding it, we carried it at Advance Auto and it was too expensive and never sold so it got discontinued.

AnthonyR23 · Jun 12, 2009

I got that permatex Right Stuff from Canadian Tire! So I ditched the end corks and used that. I have the intake on there now, just hand tight, and am not tightening till tomorrow morning. I re-read the Trick flow instructions, and it doesn't mention using those cork ends at all, so maybe that was one of my problems right from the getgo, seems like the intake may tighten down a bit more without those cork ends. The trick flow instructions say to use the permatex black rtv sealer on the ends without mention of cork! We'll see how this works! Thanks guys for all the help!

67coupe · Jun 12, 2009

Sounds good.

What I like to do after an intake install is run it for a few minutes (5 min max). Just to make sure something is not terribly wrong. I'll then turn it off and check the oil. Just to make sure I don't have the dreaded milk shake. I'll then double check the oil after the first drive.

Let us know how it turns out.

90lxcoupe · Jun 12, 2009

after you get a few heat cycles in it, re-torque the lower, it seems like a pain, but its cheap insurance on vacuum leaks.

I've retorqued myne 3 times since i put gaskets on it, and the last time i did it, i probly got 1/4 turn, but the first time i retorqued them, they were looser than id like

AnthonyR23 · Jun 13, 2009

Hey ya I was wondering about that, I will definitely try to get in there to tighten them down more after it runs for a bit, and will also check the oil. I think I am going to want to dump the oil after a couple drives, because I did leave the oil plug out to drip overnight when I had the milky oil, but I am assuming there is still some condensation from this incident in there, so don't you guys think an additional oil dump is probably worth it, do you think some of it will evaporate some how as well or just go away or is it kinda trapped in there? It takes a fair amount of oil because I have the 7qt pan, so its kinda a pain but worth it! I will try to torque them down a few time over then next few weeks just to be safe. I can't really drive it much further than up and down the driveway because I need a hood, don't think the stock hood will fit, have the 1 inch spacer on my trick flow intake to clear the tall valve covers, because of the rocker stud girdle, on the tfs heads..

I am excited though cause have it almost all together, found some cervini replica hoods for 350 Canadian, so I'm excited for that so I can actually drive this thing. One other thing I noticed when it fired up for the first time, other than being much louder, was that my water temp gauge wasn't working, so I am going to buy one from canadian tire and another temp sensor, just so I can monitor it and I need it to set my spal controller fan low and high speeds. Just jumpering it so its on all the time right now. I did get some vid. of the startup so I will throw that on you tube for anyone interested after. Maybe Sunday.

Thanks guys!!

347 Startup Break-in Cappaccino Oil!

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